Rust...(sigh)
 

I think this has been mentioned before but I really dont know what to do about rust. Like say you find some on your Z, ok then what do you do? There were like 3 rust spots on my roof above the windshield and one was already a hole. Me and my uncle scraped away all the rust then Bondo'd them and sprayed factory paint and it looked great, you wouldnt know there was rust there. Then 2 months later the paint is bubbling in the same spot again! What the hell do you do to stop stubborn rust?

You Cut It Out And Grind, Put A Rust Inhibitor Weld In A New Piece And Dont Use F@%#$% Bondo. If You Are Unable Of This, Drive Up To Canada And Ill Do It. Or Pay For A Plane Ticket For Me.

Yeah the bondo was my uncles idea. But I dont have a welder, can I just go to a body shop to have them weld in a new piece cause I have no tools or machines in my garage.

Corse you can. Shop around though as some shops are cheaper than others and im not just talking price, quality as well. And when it comes to rust you dont want someone to do a quick job . . .

how well do any of those rust reformers and such work?

I Use A Product Called Rustmort, Ive Heard Of Others, They All Work By Blocking Air To The Rust And Sealing It Off, Its Kind Of A Converter, But Not Really

does that stuff work good SHADY?

Hmmm I heard you had to media blast rust to get it off like sand blast it off then if the rust has eaten to much of the metal then it would have to be removed and replaced with a new body piece then to be sprayed with a product called rust free or something like that then to be primed and seal primed and the with a 3rd phase of prime. after that you can be sure the rust would not come back.

My advice as an ex-bodyman: RUST WILL COME BACK IF IT'S NOT REMOVED. You can slow it by heating it red hot, or by using a rust eating primer... but it will never stop completely because the pit goes deeper (microscopically) than what is on the surface. Por15 does the trick & seems to have been proven to stick for a long time, but if you chip it back off, you can see the rust has not gone away.

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh :006:

Yeah It Works Pretty Well, You Cant Just Go Slapping It On Really Rusty Stuff, Usually I Get All The Loose Stuff Off, Grind And Media Blast Then Just To Get The Excess, I Use The Rust Converter Of Choice, Then Ppg's Etch Primer, Epoxy Promer, High Build Primer, Then Its On To Minor Body Work (blocking) And Then Paint. This Will Seal The Surface So Trouble Is Far Less Likely To Come Back, Heating Helps Too.

How much do think a shop will charge to remove and weld in a new sheet for where the roof meets the windshield? (They will also have to remove my old bondo there too...)

cut and weld is the only way, but remove your window if you like it .. for pitting.. but as you are welding close to it .. cracking !

however .. we are just delaying mother nature as in 200 years they will all be junk ;)..

So I have to drive to the shop without a windshield? Oh well, I think Ill just take my chances and ahve them do the job with it on cause im afraid there might be even more rust under the windshield trim which would make everthing harder to put back

heres the best way to deal with a body shop, talk to the foreman and slip him a 20 when your talking to him about your car, then he'll make sure it is done with pride, not just some other crap car. it helps hotrod magazine did a story on it in some issue. trust me, i worked at a body shop, you could tell the cars the foreman cared about. that and mention you have friends that need work done, so he'll try hard to get more buisness. just a thought

To do it correctly the windshield needs to be taken out. There is a lot more rust under the seal, that can't be seen. I took out my windshield & found quite a few rust holes. On most of them I used brass brazing to fill in, but on the big ones I had to make patches & fusor them in. Then I got a new fresh spotless windshield! Ah! sooo clean!

Now is that $20 US or $20 CA? We need details man :075:

depends on your country, 20 bucks to anybody is 20 bucks in there respective country that they didnt have to work for. it was in hotrod mag. so lets say usd. or you could bring tim hortons donuts, or those heart stopping krispy kreme you guys got. 1200 calories for one glazed donut, i can feel the arteries tightning

man... Shady's gunna go postal with all these Canada comments! Wait... do they have a Postal service in Canada? :s-redeemer:


ok ok... I jest I jest!

its called canada postal storage up here, its slow as %$%@$#. and im tough i can take it and chuck it back mofo

Mmmm, Donut :wasted:

Well my 20 'bucks' would be 24,69 USD..., so my foreman should be allot happier... i mean not only would he get a 20 note, but also coins!!! :032: :037:

Its all about the small details !




But on a serious note.. i would try to remove the windshield.. however it is tricky, out of over 8 zx's windshields i have (tried) to remove there are only 5 still here to complain about it.. the rest was less useful after the procedure.
You have to remove the the trim, and then wire cut it out.. but one wrong move and ... well you all of a sudden have a split window Z!!
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Sounds like the rust is very minor so for a semi permanent repair I'd clean it up and use a rust converter that gives a hard finish. Then use an epoxy glue to cover the treated area and fill the holes.

Unlike polyester fillers epoxy will not allow moisture through so a well done repair should last. Which is why epoxy is extensively used in marine applications.

thats why i epoxy primer everything first to seal it, then use conventional primer, then body work, skim coats etc.

Forgot to mention that the inside of the panel should be treated with rust converter too, then sealed after the repair has been done. The life of such a repair will depend to a large degree on how well it is done in the first place, it will never be as good as a properly welded in piece as mentioned by others but......