Remove Dashboard
The Good Twin
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Originally Posted by drftrzx
do they make a replacement for the part of the dash closest to the window? (i guess u could call it the top)
Door windows or windshield? I think you are talking about the windshield?
Yes... they make Dash Caps / Covers: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/DC/50-2023
You should browse the MSA website... 99% of the parts you need, they have.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 52
From: UK
Originally Posted by Duck Ryder
I think its a 17mm.... i just put my dash back in on Thursday.... Probably coming back off on Wednesday so i can put my air conditioning back in... then back on/off to put speakers in.... add in a few more times for good measure (things always take longer than expected, not because things are difficult... its just that i can be difficult to myself)... 
It was a 22mm nut on my car...Same as the oil sump plug!
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 43
hmm.. I`m getting ideas here.. Just paint a certain rectangular space around middle 3 gauges black, rest of it covered in carbon.. for carbon type.. perhaps a matte type would be good, so you wont transfer ur dash into a disco ball once the sunlight hits them :P
has anyone ever covered their 280 dash in carbon?
has anyone ever covered their 280 dash in carbon?
Last edited by RedVonHammer; Sep 27, 2008 at 09:28 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 110
From: Beaverton, Or
Originally Posted by JEZ280ZX
Hi,
It was a 22mm nut on my car...Same as the oil sump plug!
It was a 22mm nut on my car...Same as the oil sump plug!
Yep, just had my dashboard ion/off this week to get my heater/ac back in... winter is starting off really cold here in oregon
Ruff Ryder
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,140
From: palm desert
just a hint, you dont need to take off the steering wheel to remove the dash on a s130 or even a s30, you unscrew the four bolts that hold the steering column up on the dash bar and the dash will slide right over it.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14
From: Fort Collins, CO
The earlier process is correct - here's one with a bit more detail and explanation, as I just did it 15 minutes ago...and I've done it six times before.
1) Remove left and right foot well trim panels under dash (2 screws each)
2) Remove radio console (one screw holds the triangular trim piece on each side, then 4 bolts on each side; you may not have to remove wire harnesses if there's enough slack to sit the panel on the passenger floorboards)
3) Disconnect various-colored wiring harnesses on passenger side firewall.
4) Remove two large factory cable ties next to wiring harnesses; these retain the harnesses to the dash frame (these are re-usable; release the ties by pressing on the small tab on the upper side between the tail end and the metal frame, then push the tail end back out of the tie)
4) Remove the steering wheel shroud, remove steering wheel (with a punch, lightly mark the steering wheel relative to the steering shaft so you can center the wheel on re-assembly).
5) Loosen one screw on the right side of the turn signal assy to release the clamp holding the turn signal assy on the steering column. Disconnect wiring harnesses and slide turn signal assy forward off the shaft - it can dangle.
6) Reach under dash on the right/passenger side of the steering column and disconnect speedometer cable near the firewall (this is easy to forget)
7) Remove cosmetic plugs over four screws on top of dash - try to preserve them, they're hard to find.
8) Remove 8 main dashboard screws/bolts: four screws across top of dash, four bolts on bottom side of dash (two of the bottom bolts are hidden by the radio console until you remove it)
9) Remove five screws holding the center dash vent trim in place; remove center trim panel, now remove two screws holding the heat/AC control box to the dash frame. (This is really easy to miss.)
You may now remove the dash. Try not to scrape it on the A-pillar trim too much. I find it easier to pull the passenger side forward first; keep it low so it won't jam the dash in place.
The dash weighs about 40 pounds when free - take it out the passenger side door.
Re-assembly is the reverse of removal. NOTE: make SURE when setting the dash in place to re-locate he speedometer cable properly. if you get it on the wrong side of the steering wheel brace, you will need to pull the dash again and move it so it will connect.
The only specialized tool required is a standard steering wheel puller. Most of it is done with a #2 and #3 screwdriver. You may need a small flat-blade screwdriver to carefully pry off the bolt covers on top of the dashboard.
1) Remove left and right foot well trim panels under dash (2 screws each)
2) Remove radio console (one screw holds the triangular trim piece on each side, then 4 bolts on each side; you may not have to remove wire harnesses if there's enough slack to sit the panel on the passenger floorboards)
3) Disconnect various-colored wiring harnesses on passenger side firewall.
4) Remove two large factory cable ties next to wiring harnesses; these retain the harnesses to the dash frame (these are re-usable; release the ties by pressing on the small tab on the upper side between the tail end and the metal frame, then push the tail end back out of the tie)
4) Remove the steering wheel shroud, remove steering wheel (with a punch, lightly mark the steering wheel relative to the steering shaft so you can center the wheel on re-assembly).
5) Loosen one screw on the right side of the turn signal assy to release the clamp holding the turn signal assy on the steering column. Disconnect wiring harnesses and slide turn signal assy forward off the shaft - it can dangle.
6) Reach under dash on the right/passenger side of the steering column and disconnect speedometer cable near the firewall (this is easy to forget)
7) Remove cosmetic plugs over four screws on top of dash - try to preserve them, they're hard to find.
8) Remove 8 main dashboard screws/bolts: four screws across top of dash, four bolts on bottom side of dash (two of the bottom bolts are hidden by the radio console until you remove it)
9) Remove five screws holding the center dash vent trim in place; remove center trim panel, now remove two screws holding the heat/AC control box to the dash frame. (This is really easy to miss.)
You may now remove the dash. Try not to scrape it on the A-pillar trim too much. I find it easier to pull the passenger side forward first; keep it low so it won't jam the dash in place.
The dash weighs about 40 pounds when free - take it out the passenger side door.
Re-assembly is the reverse of removal. NOTE: make SURE when setting the dash in place to re-locate he speedometer cable properly. if you get it on the wrong side of the steering wheel brace, you will need to pull the dash again and move it so it will connect.
The only specialized tool required is a standard steering wheel puller. Most of it is done with a #2 and #3 screwdriver. You may need a small flat-blade screwdriver to carefully pry off the bolt covers on top of the dashboard.
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