lol Ya before I had a Z I had an 89 Chevy Camaro RS, which I traded for my 78 280Z But I got ripped off on that one it was so rusted out I'm shocked it didnt fall apart.

 

Yeah, that's what it said. Let me know if you ever happened to find a free FSM source for 'em. I'm inheriting my dad's 72 for a grand. I remember being a kid in the back seat while he did doughnuts behind the auto parts store. It's gonna push my v8 ZX project to the back burner, even though I already have the 350/350 for it. I might turbo the ZX rather than do the 350 swap after all...

 

lol I searched forever for a FSM for my 89, I finally just gave up and got all the auto repair books made for it (which was like 3) sense each one is a little different.

 

Does anyone know where you can get new rear subframe bushings? Not the diff mount. Tho I need that too.

 

one guy modified a pair of Z31 poly mounts to work... All you gotta do is shave off enough of the smaller diameter portion to fit in the subframe itself.

 

Nissan... MSA... BDA... ? No?

Though if you are going to spend all that cash for stock replacements, why not upgrade?

I dunno what ever happened to Bartco, but he was making uhmw sub frame bushings (https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...007#post257007), though you could make your own set for cheap if you have access to a lathe. Just buy a stick / rod for $20 and cut it to fit.

 

Nope, Nope and Nope. not even ES has a set thats why I'm confused.

And I might try that sense I have a lathe I can use.

 

I guess my post doesn't count.

 

^^^ Can you still get them new? How much?

Going w/ a used set... unless you can find someone who has already carefully removed them w/o damaging them, you get to find a Z31 cross member and remove them yourself.

Good idea... lots of work...

 

I'm still kinda shocked that you cant find new ones that are proper for the car. I dont really want solid ones due to the fact I DD this Z, and I dont feel like hacking up a new bushing from the wrong car to make it fit.

 

Prothane PN#14-101

THIS IS MUCH HARDER THAN MAKING YOUR OWN.

oh, and I found it on Summit...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-14-101/

5 mins of research... VERY DIFFICULT.

 

Thats cool.

Anyways, something in my steering is popping quite loud when I turn, I don't mind buying new tie rods, but is there a way to tell if the draglink is actually bad? I'd rather not buy a brand new one if I don't have to.

 

****! My brand new rotors are already warped on the front! and its making my brakes really spongy, geez I just replaced them only like 2K miles ago.

 

Warped rotors don't make your brakes feel spongy... warped rotors make your steering wheel shake when braking from a high speed.

If your brake pedal feels spongy, you need to bleed the system.

 

Its a mix of both actually. Spongy Noisy and the steering constantly shakes wither its pressed or not. So a good mix of both

 

If the steering shakes when you AREN'T braking, it's your alignment and/or tires out of balance. Unless you heat up your rotors going up and down hills all day with your brakes constantly pressed, I doubt you warped your new rotors. And even if they were warped, you can run them down to the local parts store and have them machined for $5-$10 each. I gotta do that on my Saturn tomorrow...

 

Actually its $20 to have them turned and I had them turned before. So their on their last legs anyways I bet.

I've also had an alignment and balance done not to long ago either... I dont remember when but it was their year. Maybe its better to get my new front suspension parts sooner then later..... Its always fix one thing then another breaks lol

 

2k miles and they've already been turned once???????

 

Yep. heh about that. Slowing down from redline in 4th to a near stop does wonders for your brakes. (about 110MPH to 30MPH) dont ask lol

 

abuse = short life

Not sure why you're surprised then.

 

New install - Burn up stopping - Turned - Now

I didn't do that again and I can feel the pedal pulsing while the wheel vibrates. when breaking. but as you said, I probably need another alignment sense my steering wheel shakes all the time. Can that shake make the rotors warp?

 

How much is a fresh rebuilt L28 thats already broken in. that has new Rings, Bearings, ARP Hardware, minor headwork (polished valves), new timing chain assembly and the engine is all to spec worth?

I'm debating on selling my 280ZX and I dont think the body is worth anything at all...

 

A complete L28E... probably $200-$500 if you can ever find someone local. Shipping a motor would cost more than a new one.

Or you could part it out....

 

Meh. Nevermind that then. Hmm well I'm starting to look for a new/er Z as a daily driver. The list is growing on this Z is groing well over $1K in just parts alone. actually, more pushing $2K and thats not including the body, which I found isn't straight anymore. They fixed the outside of the body, not the frame/unibody structures after the wreak it had awhile before I got it. (I didnt know what to look for in Z cars at the time) and its warping slowly. Noted by random huge chunks of paint popping off the car w/o rust under it.

 

Would a bent A/C Condenser obstruct airflow to the radiator and cause the Z to overheat when not moving? My Z always wants to overheat at idle and it climbs really fast but it never gets over 3/4. but thats far to high for my tastes.