... is there a way to make replace the AFM Sensor With something that works off of manifold pressure? but still keeping the stock ECU system?

And of the love of the Z I can NOT get my AFM open! ... and aren't all AFMS the same sept for turbo? like an 83 and an 80 are the same?

 

Yes they are pretty much the same with the n/a's I know the turbos are different. Anyway you know the black plastic piece? Use a knife and go around and slowly slice it open. Then use the sticky to adjust your AFM. Hope that helps. Here is the link to that. Good luck man.

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/js-how-rebuild-your-afm-15277/

 

No replacement for the AFM... and most AFM's are the same, but it seems to me that someone once found one w/o an air temp sensor.

Like Wildman said, just gotta get the glue off the edge of the cover... razor blade it.

 

make sure you get some black silicon to seal it back up, you dont want no dirts in there!!!

 

Ya I ran the razor blade around the edges like 20 times and still nothing I cant pry it off! I must be doing something stupidly simple, wrong.

And sure? its just works off resistance right?

 

So I DO want lots of dirt in there?

 

kids a tard.



you can use a MAP if you go standalone. or a MAF with the Z31T ecu swap. otherwise its afm or bust. also, there are different AFM's. i have several different ones, the turbo's are completely different and the NA's have at least 2 variations of AFM style. (they have a different prong count)

 

Uh... Dont I need a turbo to do that Z31T swap?

 

Indeed... or you could do the Z31 n/a ecu swap which includes changing the entire efi harnesses... and if you're going to all that trouble, just do MSnS.

 

what is MSnS?

 

MegaSquirt & Spark: http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

 

mega squirt n spark


diyautotune.com

have fun! and my bad i forgot you don't have a turbo car. i figured you did when you were talking about running a MAP sensor, cause its typical to upgrade away from the AFM on the turbo cars where its worth it.

 

Well In a way Im trying to get this engine as simple as possible while still being FI or Turbo/FI

Wiring doesnt bother me so I may do that MSnS yet try to keep everything simple as possible (IMO if its simpler the less that can go wrong with it! So it will last longer AKA Less stuff to break lol)

 

Aoi Fox,

It seems theoretically possible... If you wanted to do it, I would suggest hooking up the MAP and leaving the AFM connected. With both connected use a Data Acquisition Unit (DAQ) to measure the voltages produced by both the AFM and the MAP under various driving conditions. Make sure both are measured at the same time for direct comparison. Remember, this is just a experimental method, which requires repeated experiments and a statistical analysis to ensure that you derive the correct relationship between the two.

If you are lucky, they will be proportional and you will only have to either boost or lower the voltage a set amount. If they are not, then you would need to add additional electronics that would measure the MAP voltage output, run it through some equation that related it to the AFM, and then have the device output the correct voltage.

However, this method would only duplicate how your car currently runs with the AFM....

Now to me, it would seem easier to just learn how the sensors work. It appears that the AFM uses a sliding door to move a potentiometer and therefore change the electrical resistance of the sensor. For a MAP, it probably uses a strain gauge and measures the changes in resistance. I am assuming its a strain gauge simply because they are very good at measuring small changes and transient responses....


....sorry... ran out of steam..... and figured I lost you anyways

Of course, knowing me.... I probably just ruined the movie by mentioning real science....

 

Nice, said my name in the backwards form of its original languages tho there isnt a space lol

And actually you made total sense to me (has taken advanced digital electronics) But that is a very good idea, tho Im not sure what I could use equipment wise besides a ohm meter or similar

I was going to put a rebuilt AFM in my car here soon so see the diff it makes so Im not worried about the condition of the AFM

I think I'll read up on it. 5 pins on the bottom, Im assuming 2 is for the air temp and the rest is for the main AFM

 

You could do it with an ohm meter, however, you should only read steady state values... Meaning that the engine rpms would need to be constant. The difficulty I would see is that you would have A LOT of discrete data points to plot the change in resistance vs. rpms.

 

True enough. Hmm Time to research more