Got all this for 100 bucks:

-1969 Block.
-1992 Block.
-1969 Heads.
-1992 Vortec heads.
-3 Distributors.
-2 Intake manifolds.
-TBI.
-4 bbl. carb.
-Brand new cam and Elgin lifters.
-Water pump.
-Assorted pullies.
-Valve covers
-Etc, etc.


My plans are to rebuild it the 1969 block with a solid 9.6:1 compression ratio with a mild port and polish and a slightly larger than stock cam. I'm looking for about 275 flywheel hp out of it. And then, It's going in the 280zx. Anybody care to talk me out of it?

 

sweet gonna turbo it later?

 

Very doubtful. Regardless of how cool I think it would be, it's just not cost effective for the situation I am in right now. I could see perhaps moving up to something like a 383 stroker or something when I get tired of the 350. Only time will tell..

 

you could make some serious cash off those camel hump heads.

 

How much cash are we talking about here? I'm not really familiar with my SBC parts values.

 

why not use the later block? and at least go with higher compression for more hp if you arent going S/C or turbo. 10.5:1 minimum if going NA lol.

 

I'm still not exactly sure which one I'm gonna use as of now. The 92 block needs a new crankshaft, and the 68 has a knock on cylinder #1. I'll take them into the shop and inspect them both.

 

Grab a crank kit for a couple hundred bucks and rebuild the '92. The manufacturing processes have been updated and machining of the block is much better than the process used on the '69. The Vortech head should flow better and have a higher compression ratio.

 

plus a knock can mean it had a shot bearing which could mean a knew crank as well. and yah CW knows why i say use the earlier model block.

 

To be honest here, I'm still not exactly sure if the heads are in fact Vortec heads. I'm just going by what the previous owner said. Regardless, my goal is to make a streetable setup pushing 300 hp or so on a poor mans budget.

 

Post some large clear pics of those "1969" heads, front, back...and if you can the valves. Measure the large intake valve...if it is a 2.02" valve and there are two humps on the head then you have some potential power sitting there. Check the heads for mounting holes...for stuff like pulley brackets and what not. The "Double Hump" "202" heads are not really expensive as Vortec Heads are a little better...But...if you have some, there is a market for them. $300-$900 a pair depending on who wants them and the shape they are in.

"For '62 Chevrolet's new hot motor, the 327 (the first small-block with a four-inch bore) packed a wallop. Besides the carbureted versions, a fuel-injected 327 with 360 hp was optional in the '62 Corvette. The cylinder heads used on this engine (and some others of the era) were the 3782461X head with 1.94/1.50-inch valves. These heads had the commonly found double-hump shape on the end of the head. It should be noted that beginning in '64 and through '68, cylinder heads with the double-hump shape also used 2.02-inch intake valves (aka fuelie heads). Castings with 2.02-inch intake valves were also used on the 365hp (Holley carburetion) and 375hp (Rochester fuel-injection) Corvette 327 engines. Except for some early truck applications, it would not be until '69 that all small-block cylinder heads would feature accessory mounting holes.The '67 model year had a lot of small-block excitement. First, the new 350 engines available in the Camaro debuted, and the special high-performance 302 Z/28 package Camaro was released. The 350ci engine with its 3.48-inch stroke and 4.00-inch bore provided good low-speed torque and power. The Camaro-only 350 engine (for '67) produced 295 hp from a two-bolt main block. Other passenger cars would have 350s beginning in '69."

Edit: Here is a link for the casting numbers on the heads - http://www.ecbrcnj.com/id14.html

 

earlier blocks have thicker walls.

 

hey hoov were you being serious about buying back the zx?

 

Why are you asking him in this thread?

 

i don't know cause he must have been viewing it so i thought i'd get his attention faster this way

 

Try a PM instead of thread jacking. Just a thought.

 

yes i was serious..... also their are camel heads that came with smaller valves, but the most common had the 2" valve.

 

thicker isnt always better. definatly means more weight.

 

snw i dont think you realize that weight really isnt an issue when putting a motor in a z, hell wasnt there a thread on hybridz stating that the sbc weighed less then the l28?

and thicker IS better for a sbc.

 

Of course you could go Bowtie Block and Heads...all Aluminum...now you are saving weight. I think I read that one of those SB Bowtie blocks weighed like 65lbs or some crap like that.

 

It's all about the lack of money here. I'm just gonna try and make the best out of what I have. I'm definitely not gonna skimp on the rings or gaskets or anything like that though..

 

Most off-topic post ever!

 

people got mad at me for my wagon mod idea....at least i kept the L28...Just my honest opinion from years of working on domestic stuff....its crap. But, small block chevys get the most bang for the buck and its a much better option than a sb-f or some Mopar crap.

 

Nice buy!
Scrap prices are way up. You should be able to get $300 for all that.