ok new here 280zx FTW?
11-21-2011, 09:07 AM
#26
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
dont get me wrong here i love the car and love the engine thats in it
it has amazing capabilities its just when people wer tuning these things was 20 years ago almost everything is gone and wats left is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
the l28 has an amazing sound and i love it for that
i have pushed and pushed my self to do more research
that i have done very very much so
yes i could build a l28et and it b ****ing killer but with that goes mpg and a very very deep pocket unless the lil magic fairy comes by and drops used parts for cheap.
im seriously considering stroking this l28e of mine along with possible custom intake and stand alone for around 3500
only gets me 2 maby 240 whp which is fine aswell
for you smart guys here!!!!! to stroke the l28 you need a 83mm stoke crank comes out of a 80's nissan maxima deisel
240z rods ( 133mm ) and ka24 pistions ( 34mm ) slap on a 2mm hks headgasket to alow clearence above head ( needs .9mm to b exact ) Gives 2mm clearence overblock height being 207.9mm) and you got a stroked motor
i spent alot of time researching this and found another suspect is a honda racing pistion add corrisponding componets and these pistions would drop the clearence to -1.mm which would b better for less stress on the head gasket and ability for high compression pistions
my only question is will this pistion work?
http://www.race-mart.com/Mahle-MAH-HON220445F01.html
concidering the displacement catagory of this
stock stroke and bore and displacemet
.........79..........86...........2.753 ( which is wher the term 2.8 comes into play)
stroker crank and diffrent bore.............................................. ...............................................sto ck hp is 145hp at the fly
........83...........86............2.893.........2 .8..................................5.1% increase over stock........................152-fhp
........83...........87............2.96..........3 .0..................................7.5% increase over stock........................155-fhp
........83...........88............3.029.........3 .0 just a lil beefer..............10.0% increase over stock........................159-fhp
........83...........89............3.098.........3 .1..................................12.5% increase over stock........................163-fhp
........83...........90............3.168.........3 .1..................................15.1% increase over stock........................167.4-fhp
is that even the correct way to figure out hp gains?
it has amazing capabilities its just when people wer tuning these things was 20 years ago almost everything is gone and wats left is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
the l28 has an amazing sound and i love it for that
i have pushed and pushed my self to do more research
that i have done very very much so
yes i could build a l28et and it b ****ing killer but with that goes mpg and a very very deep pocket unless the lil magic fairy comes by and drops used parts for cheap.
im seriously considering stroking this l28e of mine along with possible custom intake and stand alone for around 3500
only gets me 2 maby 240 whp which is fine aswell
for you smart guys here!!!!! to stroke the l28 you need a 83mm stoke crank comes out of a 80's nissan maxima deisel
240z rods ( 133mm ) and ka24 pistions ( 34mm ) slap on a 2mm hks headgasket to alow clearence above head ( needs .9mm to b exact ) Gives 2mm clearence overblock height being 207.9mm) and you got a stroked motor
i spent alot of time researching this and found another suspect is a honda racing pistion add corrisponding componets and these pistions would drop the clearence to -1.mm which would b better for less stress on the head gasket and ability for high compression pistions
my only question is will this pistion work?
http://www.race-mart.com/Mahle-MAH-HON220445F01.html
concidering the displacement catagory of this
stock stroke and bore and displacemet
.........79..........86...........2.753 ( which is wher the term 2.8 comes into play)
stroker crank and diffrent bore.............................................. ...............................................sto ck hp is 145hp at the fly
........83...........86............2.893.........2 .8..................................5.1% increase over stock........................152-fhp
........83...........87............2.96..........3 .0..................................7.5% increase over stock........................155-fhp
........83...........88............3.029.........3 .0 just a lil beefer..............10.0% increase over stock........................159-fhp
........83...........89............3.098.........3 .1..................................12.5% increase over stock........................163-fhp
........83...........90............3.168.........3 .1..................................15.1% increase over stock........................167.4-fhp
is that even the correct way to figure out hp gains?
There's no reason not to be able to get 30MPG on the L28ET with a proper tune and by a proper tune I mean great mileage at cruise and gas guzzling performance under heavy throttle. You're not going to do any better on an RB or and SR... maybe maybe a mild or stock KA but then that's just boring
My example of 700rwhp (actually I heard it was 1100rwhp IIRC - TonyD had the dyno sheets and had also talked to one of the mechanics - just from memory you'd have to verify) was that back in the early 80's with the old ancient experimental technology they had (granted these were the pro's on a race team) the were getting that kind of HP out of the engine. So for you and I with 30 year newer technology (especially the electronics) to get 300rwhp cheap and easy is very doable. Cheap - Holset HX35 turbo (about $300 used from a '90s Dodge diesel pickup) has a huge and efficent map, Intercooler and piping - $150 from E-Bay for a kit. I'd spend the extra money on a MS2 at least - $300-$500 for a fully tuneable system. Set of 440cc used injectors - $100. Fuel presure regulator - $50. Port out your stock intake manifold and put on a 2.5" or 3" downpipe and if you want to cheap out just get an extra mandrel bend and exit the exhaust before the rear wheel out the side - $150 3" exhaust with mandrel bends. At just over $1000 that's a quarter or less of what a stroker build would be and you'll still make more HP...
Some good info for starters on the turbo swap but it's fairly dated. Good starting point but you'll have to research further to get more up to date info.
Atlantic Z turbo tech
Last edited by FricFrac; 11-21-2011 at 09:24 AM.
11-21-2011, 11:38 PM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Bumfuk Egypt Tennessee
Posts: 60
thanks for the info
thats a really good read
i understand fully that adding better and more efficent parts to the l28et can creat much better results in the end for cheaper
but....... i plan on sliding my mechine quite a bit and the better the torque the better you can controle your slide
which is why i was considering sl28et
not many people out ther have correctly built thers which is why they dont last very long at all
i have my hands on a ld28 crank with less than 50k miles on it for under 100 currently in my sight so for less than 1200 i can bullet proof my bottom end and cause a better torque curve the happier i will b in the end
speaking of which does any1 know if thoes pistions will work
and wher would i turn to for a base map i plan on trying to push the limits of 15 to 20 lbs
thats a really good read
i understand fully that adding better and more efficent parts to the l28et can creat much better results in the end for cheaper
but....... i plan on sliding my mechine quite a bit and the better the torque the better you can controle your slide
which is why i was considering sl28et
not many people out ther have correctly built thers which is why they dont last very long at all
i have my hands on a ld28 crank with less than 50k miles on it for under 100 currently in my sight so for less than 1200 i can bullet proof my bottom end and cause a better torque curve the happier i will b in the end
speaking of which does any1 know if thoes pistions will work
and wher would i turn to for a base map i plan on trying to push the limits of 15 to 20 lbs
11-23-2011, 09:20 PM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Bumfuk Egypt Tennessee
Posts: 60
ld28 crank 240z rods and possibly thoes pistions
correct tunning and wala stroked bottom end
the most expensive part is going to b the mechining of the block for clearence of rods and fully ballancing the pistions/rods, crank, fly
but seriously any body have a clue that thoes pistions will work??
correct tunning and wala stroked bottom end
the most expensive part is going to b the mechining of the block for clearence of rods and fully ballancing the pistions/rods, crank, fly
but seriously any body have a clue that thoes pistions will work??
11-23-2011, 09:55 PM
#30
Lemme work the Google machine for ya.
http://zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm
http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=6775.0
I like this quote:
Originally Posted by NZeder
To build a good stroker (without doing any work your self) and by good I mean over 240RWHP (300+ flywheel) you will need a budget of $15K at least
Originally Posted by Mr Camouflage
Yep the stroker is the least bang per buck, ie the most expensive option for hp that could be achieved more cheaply with a different motor, or a turbo L series. But it does have the coolness factor of still being an L series under the bonnet.
If your on a tight budget, then spend the $5000 on another motor.
If your on a tight budget, then spend the $5000 on another motor.
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/
He's got probably $30k+ sunk into that motor.
Lastly, I have a set of 4 KA24 pistons for sale: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/fs-240z-260z-280z-280zx-70-83-242/clearing-out-my-280z-280zx-280zxt-spare-parts-31310/
11-25-2011, 04:59 PM
#31
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
ld28 crank 240z rods and possibly thoes pistions
correct tunning and wala stroked bottom end
the most expensive part is going to b the mechining of the block for clearence of rods and fully ballancing the pistions/rods, crank, fly
but seriously any body have a clue that thoes pistions will work??
correct tunning and wala stroked bottom end
the most expensive part is going to b the mechining of the block for clearence of rods and fully ballancing the pistions/rods, crank, fly
but seriously any body have a clue that thoes pistions will work??
11-26-2011, 01:03 AM
#33
Ruff Ryder
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: palm desert
Posts: 6,140
Rb30det would be more cost effective then a stroker l30. Only downside is, it's not bollt in. for suspension look whats easilly adaptable, not whats easily bolted in, having someone weld in a set of coilover mounts can be pretty cheap.
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