Oil write up...
04-24-2006, 04:57 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Mesa, AZ.
Posts: 1,055
Oil write up...
Ok, this comes from Tony D. at zcar.com . I wanted to post it cause it's a good read and also I wanted some feedback on it. Feel free to post your thoughts on it....
__________________________________________________ _______________
Author: Tony D
Date: Apr 23, 5:51pm
Oil is very misunderstood.
The lighter the oil, the faster the oil gets to engine parts upon a cold startup whatever the temperature is when you start it!
This, along with the preponderance of people driving their cars, or otherwise putting a load on their engines before they are up to proper operating temperature, is another reason the OEMs are going with progressively lower and lower vis requirements in the "W" portion of the oil designation. The lower weight allows for it to be "LOWER FRICTION" and helps gas mileage as well.
What you have to be more concerned about other than the oil weight, is the COMPOUNDING of the synthetics used in the two different brands. With synthetic oils, there are several different base stocks used to refine the oils. PAO, Diester, etc.... BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN if dissimialr oils are mixed.
This is not a "may happen" it is a WILL happen. If you mix Diester and PAO oils, and put them together under heat it WILL POLYMERIZE and turn into unpumpable jello! In some cases even harder!
What you need to do if you are serious about changing brands is check for oil composition. This should be available in the literature from the manufacturer for users, or on the website for the product.
You want to make sure they are compatible bases, othewise, drop the pan, THOROUGHLY flush and clean the pan and engine, and then change to the other oil.
In some cases, the vendor may even request you run for 500 miles on mineral based oil to dilute any possible stuff from nooks and crannies, and then do a flush and change to the other oil.
Polymerization is not anything you want to experience. Working with compressors I see this all the time when people top off with the wrong oil.
Even JeffP has experienced it in his 3L Turbo (found the remnants of polymerized oil in his pan when he dropped it: "Hey Tony, what's this hard black crap in the bottom of my pan?")
It does happen, and it doesn't take much of that black goop to plug up your intake screen and starve your engine for oil.
Be safe, do your checks, and flush if needed!
As for 0W-40, it's not a problem, it will decrease startup engine wear because the engine will prime and oil the top end far faster with it than anything else that is heavier.
__________________________________________________ ______________
Let me know what you think!!
Carl
__________________________________________________ _______________
Author: Tony D
Date: Apr 23, 5:51pm
Oil is very misunderstood.
The lighter the oil, the faster the oil gets to engine parts upon a cold startup whatever the temperature is when you start it!
This, along with the preponderance of people driving their cars, or otherwise putting a load on their engines before they are up to proper operating temperature, is another reason the OEMs are going with progressively lower and lower vis requirements in the "W" portion of the oil designation. The lower weight allows for it to be "LOWER FRICTION" and helps gas mileage as well.
What you have to be more concerned about other than the oil weight, is the COMPOUNDING of the synthetics used in the two different brands. With synthetic oils, there are several different base stocks used to refine the oils. PAO, Diester, etc.... BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN if dissimialr oils are mixed.
This is not a "may happen" it is a WILL happen. If you mix Diester and PAO oils, and put them together under heat it WILL POLYMERIZE and turn into unpumpable jello! In some cases even harder!
What you need to do if you are serious about changing brands is check for oil composition. This should be available in the literature from the manufacturer for users, or on the website for the product.
You want to make sure they are compatible bases, othewise, drop the pan, THOROUGHLY flush and clean the pan and engine, and then change to the other oil.
In some cases, the vendor may even request you run for 500 miles on mineral based oil to dilute any possible stuff from nooks and crannies, and then do a flush and change to the other oil.
Polymerization is not anything you want to experience. Working with compressors I see this all the time when people top off with the wrong oil.
Even JeffP has experienced it in his 3L Turbo (found the remnants of polymerized oil in his pan when he dropped it: "Hey Tony, what's this hard black crap in the bottom of my pan?")
It does happen, and it doesn't take much of that black goop to plug up your intake screen and starve your engine for oil.
Be safe, do your checks, and flush if needed!
As for 0W-40, it's not a problem, it will decrease startup engine wear because the engine will prime and oil the top end far faster with it than anything else that is heavier.
__________________________________________________ ______________
Let me know what you think!!
Carl
04-24-2006, 06:09 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pensacola,fla
Posts: 359
Do we have any information on going from regular oil to synthetic back to regular again? I've always heard that you can never put regular oil back in a motor once you've used a synthetic in it unless you break the whole thing down and clean it thoroughly.
04-24-2006, 07:33 PM
#3
Big Poppa
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
that i dont think matters, it technically will flush out the "non sythetic" in a hurry. i feel as long as you use the manufacturs spec oil, the car will be just fine, with oil technology being as superior as it is, you really cant go wrong. even wal-mart brad oil meets the oil specs for all vehicles
04-24-2006, 11:18 PM
#4
Head Muckraker
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 9,221
Correct. Dino oil is often used as an interim oil between synthetic bases for just the reason TonyD and Shady stated.
Castrol Syntec is really good 'consumer' grade oil and RedLine or Royal Purple for the 'freakin' expensive synthetic oil...
Castrol Syntec is really good 'consumer' grade oil and RedLine or Royal Purple for the 'freakin' expensive synthetic oil...
04-25-2006, 06:58 PM
#5
Big Poppa
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
or my mobil one oil, just so ya know im partial to the 15w40, just cause i regularly rev the crap outa my engine and it seems to get a little thin after a really hard run if i use 10w30, but thats just my prefferance and wal-mart sells it in bigger containers.
04-25-2006, 07:11 PM
#6
Doesn't post much...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Escondido (San Diego) California
Posts: 3,617
I sell Royal Purple and Mobil 1 at my shop, and the Royal purple costs me less than the Mobil 1...
But, this is all pretty much the same argument I made in another thread a while back about running oil that is too thick. I still use 5w20 or 5w30 in my 250K mile motor and have no issues.
Rod.
But, this is all pretty much the same argument I made in another thread a while back about running oil that is too thick. I still use 5w20 or 5w30 in my 250K mile motor and have no issues.
Rod.
04-25-2006, 07:14 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 5,485
Do you sell the Royal Purple cheaper Rod? The only place I've been into that advertised the price of their Royal Purple was a speedshop I used to go into and it was a couple buck more a quart then the Mobil 1 was. Other than that I've never asked so I've always just assumed it was more.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TeamRonin
300ZX (Z31) Forums
10
05-31-2009 11:01 PM
Turbo86
300ZX (Z31) Performance / Technical
2
07-27-2006 05:38 PM
CanyonCarver
300ZX (Z32) Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
2
01-01-2005 01:09 AM
Bookmarks
