Not happy with my ZX
#26
Thanks Z-Hag and everyone else
I still have a vacuum leak....it is not a vacuum port or line....trust me on that one However, could an injector be not being sealed in its hole cause a leak? I hear the hissing right behind the water goose neck...somewhere between the Goose neck and the #2 injector....between the valve cover and the edge of the goose neck area...here is a pic of the area...my friend thinks it may be the intake to the head leaking somewhere in there.I have bypassed almost everything that needs vacuum and capped most ports off...all that is left is the Brake Booster and Vacuum Advance I believe. I went nuts on it today.
I still have a vacuum leak....it is not a vacuum port or line....trust me on that one However, could an injector be not being sealed in its hole cause a leak? I hear the hissing right behind the water goose neck...somewhere between the Goose neck and the #2 injector....between the valve cover and the edge of the goose neck area...here is a pic of the area...my friend thinks it may be the intake to the head leaking somewhere in there.I have bypassed almost everything that needs vacuum and capped most ports off...all that is left is the Brake Booster and Vacuum Advance I believe. I went nuts on it today.
#27
the regulator is supposed to work like thxone. it is fine , leave it. read the haynes, it backs me up there. take carb cleaner or brakeleen and spray it where you suspect the leak, it will raise the idle. also the injector seals can leak when they get old. also, instal them with oil, so they dont tear. just ask bleach aboot injector leaks.
#28
Originally Posted by SHADY280
the regulator is supposed to work like thxone. it is fine , leave it. read the haynes, it backs me up there. take carb cleaner or brakeleen and spray it where you suspect the leak, it will raise the idle. also the injector seals can leak when they get old. also, instal them with oil, so they dont tear. just ask bleach aboot injector leaks.
#34
well if air is leaking past the injectors as a vaccuum leak, when boosted it turns to a boost leak. (the intake is pressurized) what im saying is you injector o-rings could quite potentially are leaking.
#36
Got some brake parts cleaner.....Huuuummmmmmm, yeah, there is a leak...2 leaks to be exact...but I did clean off alot of stuff under the hood with the cleaner
The leaks are: #1 #2 Cyl right where the gasket is between the intake and the head, the #5 #6 Cyl right where the gasket is between the intake and the head. The engine bogged more noticeably when I sprayed very lightly directly on the gasket at the #5 #6 Cyl...not the injectors themselves. There is an intake bolt right at both of those leaks. I tried to tighten them but they would not budge. Hmmmm, what to do guys? I know the car is running at about 85-90% and it is good. I will be happy with 97-100% of what it should be.
Any suggestions? Should I get a new Intake/Exhaust gasket? Do you think the intake is warped? Could it still be the injector seals...though I really did not notice any difference when I sprayed the base of each injector...only when I sprayed the gasket right at the intake and head, directly above each intake bolt ( between #1 #2 injectors and #5 #6 injectors). I am not real upset about it, though it is a problem.
One more gremlin...the Brake light, Fuel light and Door light in the gauge cluster are actin a fool....they are on all the time now...sometimes flickering and sometimes go out when I come to a stop...as soon as I touch the gas they come back on. What do you think about this also? Thanks guys.
The leaks are: #1 #2 Cyl right where the gasket is between the intake and the head, the #5 #6 Cyl right where the gasket is between the intake and the head. The engine bogged more noticeably when I sprayed very lightly directly on the gasket at the #5 #6 Cyl...not the injectors themselves. There is an intake bolt right at both of those leaks. I tried to tighten them but they would not budge. Hmmmm, what to do guys? I know the car is running at about 85-90% and it is good. I will be happy with 97-100% of what it should be.
Any suggestions? Should I get a new Intake/Exhaust gasket? Do you think the intake is warped? Could it still be the injector seals...though I really did not notice any difference when I sprayed the base of each injector...only when I sprayed the gasket right at the intake and head, directly above each intake bolt ( between #1 #2 injectors and #5 #6 injectors). I am not real upset about it, though it is a problem.
One more gremlin...the Brake light, Fuel light and Door light in the gauge cluster are actin a fool....they are on all the time now...sometimes flickering and sometimes go out when I come to a stop...as soon as I touch the gas they come back on. What do you think about this also? Thanks guys.
Last edited by thxone; 04-02-2007 at 06:29 PM.
#37
the lights are the alternator on the way out. thats the warning signs, but make sure you test it, cause it could be a loose belt, or a poor connection. the intake gasket is shot, and if someone used a die grinder to clean it last time, or they torqued it down too much, or in the wrong order, it could be warped. machine shop can take care of that. although thye dont normally warp. read my sticky on doing the intake job prior to starting, youll be glad you did.
#38
I see....Well I have a bunch of new belts for the car, an extra Alternator on my '82...I think I am cool there. Hmmmm, not sure I want to tackle the gasket myself...thats alot of work....alot. Well, maybe not....ahh crap...there goes my weekend! lol
#39
The gasket is indeed a PITA. I think I ported my gasket a tad too much on the #1 cyl to match the ported head and I am getting vacuum leak. But after spending a week and a half re-assembling the car to tear off the manifold and headers again... I dunno, gotta get my mojo up to do it this weekend perhaps.
Yay free time! What? Oh, sorry honey, I mean work on Z time!
Yay free time! What? Oh, sorry honey, I mean work on Z time!
#40
Yeah, I think I will wait till I get a header and do it all together as one project...then I think I may rebuild my P79/F54 if nobody buys it...maybe swap that into the '79...don't know yet...that is a ways down the road.
#41
the gasket is easy, lose the fuel rail unbolt exhaust and intake manig bolts adn a few coolant/vacumme lines. easy as pie. and some electrical connections. you can knock it out in a few hours. but you should wait till you get a header.... i got one but yeah i dont think its got the O2 or EGR ports.... but psh, EGR's are for slow people, and you dont even use your O2 sensor. want?
#43
Well Snw....now that I have a 1979 ZX and have a different steering setup and no O2...I may be in the market for a header sometime in the near to not so near future What year specifically is your header for...what shape is it in and how much will you be selling it for? Pics?
Bleach....I agree no more than 72% I am actually more interested in a header for the exhaust note and not so much for performance at this time, however, down the road I may be requiring a more healthy breathing engine in my ZX and what pulls exhaust out of a head better than a header. Plus they look cool.
Bleach....I agree no more than 72% I am actually more interested in a header for the exhaust note and not so much for performance at this time, however, down the road I may be requiring a more healthy breathing engine in my ZX and what pulls exhaust out of a head better than a header. Plus they look cool.
#44
ummm, they are round port, not EGR no O2, idk what year specific they were for but that doesnt mattter for fitment other than O2 sensor or not or round port or not. its a 6-2 header, in really good shape, i cleaned them up some. i got a pic at home i think, dont know how clean they look in the pic but they are un dented and the minor surface rust that was in some spots has for the most part been obliterated
and i'd take i guess 60 bucks shipped? i think i paid 70 shipped a month or two back.
and i'd take i guess 60 bucks shipped? i think i paid 70 shipped a month or two back.
#45
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
ummm, they are round port, not EGR no O2, idk what year specific they were for but that doesnt mattter for fitment other than O2 sensor or not or round port or not. its a 6-2 header, in really good shape, i cleaned them up some. i got a pic at home i think, dont know how clean they look in the pic but they are un dented and the minor surface rust that was in some spots has for the most part been obliterated
and i'd take i guess 60 bucks shipped? i think i paid 70 shipped a month or two back.
and i'd take i guess 60 bucks shipped? i think i paid 70 shipped a month or two back.
PM sent Brotha!!!
#46
Originally Posted by SHADY280
the lights are the alternator on the way out. thats the warning signs, but make sure you test it, cause it could be a loose belt, or a poor connection. the intake gasket is shot, and if someone used a die grinder to clean it last time, or they torqued it down too much, or in the wrong order, it could be warped. machine shop can take care of that. although thye dont normally warp. read my sticky on doing the intake job prior to starting, youll be glad you did.
Well Shady, I took the car down and they did a load test at the auto parts store on my electrical system and it said I have a bad diode group so I am going to swap my alternators...then take it down again, this time out of the car and see if it is bad for sure. When the car is in neutral at 750 rpm the battery gauge is just above 10 volts and just gets to 14 when above 2,500 rpm.
#47
haaha! ive have 4 alternators die on mine, i know the lights well. do the gm 12si alternator swap, its easy and worth it. my car still has charging problems, i dont know if its a 79 thing, but hope yours works out. i can help ya if needed for this stuff, ive check it all. stupid 26 year old charging systems.
#48
How the HELL does the alternator come out of the car???? It's is a permanent resident...there are no holes or gaps big enough to remove it..and I diconnected my coolant line (Big mistake) and the alternator is still in there and I have no coolant in my engine. WTF??? How do you remove the alternator....or do we???
#49
Originally Posted by thxone
How the HELL does the alternator come out of the car???? It's is a permanent resident...there are no holes or gaps big enough to remove it..and I diconnected my coolant line (Big mistake) and the alternator is still in there and I have no coolant in my engine. WTF??? How do you remove the alternator....or do we???
#50
Originally Posted by NismoPick
If you've already got the radiator hose off, just unbolt the power steering pump, move it to the side & lift the alternator out the top.