venemoushorn

Hello, I'm Matt, live in OK. I have an 83 zxt 2+2 that has been in the family since new. I was in the middle of restoring it in 2006 when someone stole it. I heard him and chased until the police caught up and "Got him to stop" unfortunately it left the car a little beyond what I am willing to restore. Anyway I have been looking since then and finally found the same car just needs a head gasket. After I get what I need for this one I will part the other out, if anyone is interested.

Looks like the head gasket should be pretty straight forward, but anything odd in particular I should be aware of. Thanks in advance for your help.

flatblack

The cam gear and timing chain are kind of a bitch to do, make sure you don't drop the chain.

It's helpful to have a FSM for this.

skib

ditto.


if you dont have a manual go to your local parts store and pick one up for about $20

theres some good online info too

also look into this book, looooots of good stuff in there. I used it threw my L28et build
How To Rebuild Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine

flatblack

I have that as well, it's even better than the FSM [for the most part] because it has real pictures instead of drawings.

skib

ya as far as just engine stuff goes its an awesome book.
Its just as worn and tattered as my FSM lol

venemoushorn

Thanks, I'll pick up a copy. Looks like Ishino is the oem replacement? Any input as to whether it is the best. Besides the gasket set and new head bolts, and obvously the stuff I break taking it off, anything else I should need?

flatblack

Well opinions differ, I'm going to reccommend ARP head studs for your turbo motor [or any motor really]

Head bolts are torque to yeild [Can't re-use them] and a set is about $90 IIRC, ARPs are reusable and are only $140-150 shipped on ebay.

I'm running a Fel-pro gasket, but I'd like to switch to a Nissan OEM [you can get them from MSA [thezstore.com] because if you get knock they'll blow out easier which can save your motor [and won't blow through water or oil passages]

I do new bolts on everything when possible. Front Cover bolts, water pump bolts, oil pan bolts, intake/exhaust studs etc etc Digging bolts out sucks and is not worth it.

skib

as far as head gaskets go, a felpro from the parts store will work, but its not the best. for the most part any Japanese head gasket is going to be of comparable quality to OEM.


you can get by re using head bolts, its really better to get new ones. sometimes you have no choice, Iv re used them and had no problems. Bolts stretch when torqued tho so youl need to torque used ones down a bit more to make up for that.
I do recommend getting new ones tho, re use only when necessary.


and if you dont have a decent torque wrench, pick one up

venemoushorn

Yeah, this is the perfect opportunity to justify a new one.

skib

I like the cut of your jib sir

260zturbo

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

skib

win.

Blues Tech Tips is a great page with a ton of GREAT info

thetremendousti

Okay ARP head bolts are a +
probably felpro i just have a oem one from ebay in fact you can buy a whole turbo gasket set off ebay for $70! thats what i did!!

TIMING CHAIN!!!!

DO

NOT

LET

IT

DROP!!!
please search and find out how to prevent this, a wooden chuck, a small chisel, even cut off your sons arm and throw it down there if you have to, to prevent that chain tensioner from pushing out!!!

other than that just download the FSM, familiarize yourself with engine outer and inner components BEFORE you dive in and bag & tag ALL screws an bolts! Its a patient process but learning is so much fun and its really cool to see!!

P.S. Gasket replacement side effects may include acute "while i'm at it..." syndrome, but is different for each person. Good luck

venemoushorn

Thanks for the advice. I already have plans to swap the turbo with another I've got "while I'm at it" so yeah I know what you mean.

venemoushorn

Hey guys. I have the opportunity to pick up a 1983 na long block with oem turbo style crank, pistons, rods and King bearings. He put a steel head gasket on and had the head ported. Has a mild cam, not sure of the numbers on it. It looks clean and he seems pretty knowledgeable. He says the motor has a total of 5k on it with about 1k of that run at 15lbs of boost. He said he had it in a 240 that someone wanted the rolling chassis and it ran great when he removed it. He also says it will work perfectly for mine even though I plan on returning it to stock.
I guess my questions are, will the na block work, is there anything I should look for or check, or anything else I should ask etc.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Matt

njgheewala

Nice site...Is there one for s130's I have 280zxt and there is a little leak from the valve cover. Thinking of changing the gasket, no clue how to but would love to do it myself. Let me know some heads up and tips (apologies for the hijack of the thread )

skib

not that one in particular but the S130 has the same L6 tho so all the engine/drive train stuff apply to S130s too.

the cam cover is notorious for "sweating" a little oil over time, the gasket absorbs it after a while.

check out http://www.xenons130.com, theres a FSM under references

njgheewala

Thanks skib, My friend has the Haynes Manual...that should have all the necessary instructions, correct? I need to get that as soon as I get a chance. I bookmarked the link that you provided and will download the FSM.

skib

its just 8 bolts, 6 on the sides and 2 on the front, pretty strait forward

njgheewala

coo...its just htat theprocess of stuck gasket that makes me a little nervous . I mean making sure that the new gasket sits well and I don't wannna run into the same issue again...

skib

you just wanna make sure to not break bolts, its a pita.

the cam cover gasket will leak a little oil over time no matter what you do. The gasket absorbs oil and "sweats" it after a while.
The best you can do is line it up strait and get it snug.

njgheewala

cool, cool...thx skib

skib

gl

flatblack

83 N/A motors have flat top pistons which are higher compression, but if he swapped the rotating assembly out of a L28ET like he said the compression should be exactly the same as a turbo motor.

There is a small circle [maybe a bit larger than a quarter] on the spark plug side of the motor that the L28ET used for the knock sensor. Did he tap it and install one? I suppose it's not necessary but you can tap it and install one if you like. My roommate gave me an extra knock sensor out of a 2JZ that I'll probably throw on once I get the black car running.

Also, you'll want the turbo oil pump, ask him if he installed that. I put one on my N/A F54/P79 and it definitely made a difference.

Also do a compression test before you buy the motor [or any motor, really]

Good luck!! Keep us updated.

venemoushorn

I haven't posted any updates because my mom recently passed away, and time just kinda stands still gettin everything taken care of.

Anyway, I was able to get out and get started on the Z yesterday and got it all torn down and the head removed. The gasket was leaking into the number three cylindar. It's pretty apparent what happened...someone installed an electric fan(good idea). However they did not tuck the wires(bad idea) and they are sheared off at about the distance to the closest pulley. At least I can correct the original problem while I'm in there.

The head still appears to be good no cracks etc visible...how can I check for warpage? and what is tolerable?

I am using Ishino head gasket and new ARP head studs.

Thanks in advance!