My last few Z questions
05-29-2011, 10:19 AM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 64
My last few Z questions
Hi, just finishing up my 82 280ZX, and I'm noticed a few problems I thought you guys might know. Any help is very appreciated.
- Well first I replaced the front brakes and bleed the brakes, but now the pedal sinks to the floor. The pedal was stiff before, and was sitting for a couple weeks, I was thinking the master cylinder could of froze up in that time and now it's leaking, because the rear master cylinder bleeder has air come out, but no where else it has air just brake fluid. Here is how I bleed the brakes, front MC, rear MC, right rear, left rear, front right, left right. I work on cars for a living so I know what I'm doing, but did I miss something?
- Which is the coolant temp sensor that goes to the gauge in the dash, there is like 4 of them, and the wires are too discolored to tell the color. Is it the one that has the two pin connector?
- Also, kind of weird thing is when it's idling low (600-800rpm range), if I take the oil filler cap off the engine will die. If I take the dipstick out it won't. The only thing I can think of is that it needs that crankcase pressure, but taking the dipstick out don't effect it and the compression test on this engine was good...is there some kind of safety feature I'm not aware of?
- This one I have no clue, when I bought the car it sat at stock height, and the suspension was in good shape. I jacked up the car to start working on it and inspect the brakes, when I lowered it the car sat really high up and the wheels had alot of positive camber (like when a car is sitting too high), I tried jumping on the car to lower, and nothing. I had to drive it to turn it around and then the front end was at stock height, but the rear wasn't. I tried jacking the rear end up and spraying some penetrating oil on the strut shaft, putting the jack under the rear lower control arm and lifting up to maybe pop it loose, and also try just dumping the jack and letting the car slam to the ground and bounce, and also just letting it sit for weeks. I had no luck, you can push on the rear and it will go down,but it springs right back to where it was. The front seems to eventually go down to stock height,but I can't get the rear to stay down. I know it's not the strut being restricted, because I can push on the car and it goes down to about stock height but just bounces back up.
- Well first I replaced the front brakes and bleed the brakes, but now the pedal sinks to the floor. The pedal was stiff before, and was sitting for a couple weeks, I was thinking the master cylinder could of froze up in that time and now it's leaking, because the rear master cylinder bleeder has air come out, but no where else it has air just brake fluid. Here is how I bleed the brakes, front MC, rear MC, right rear, left rear, front right, left right. I work on cars for a living so I know what I'm doing, but did I miss something?
- Which is the coolant temp sensor that goes to the gauge in the dash, there is like 4 of them, and the wires are too discolored to tell the color. Is it the one that has the two pin connector?
- Also, kind of weird thing is when it's idling low (600-800rpm range), if I take the oil filler cap off the engine will die. If I take the dipstick out it won't. The only thing I can think of is that it needs that crankcase pressure, but taking the dipstick out don't effect it and the compression test on this engine was good...is there some kind of safety feature I'm not aware of?
- This one I have no clue, when I bought the car it sat at stock height, and the suspension was in good shape. I jacked up the car to start working on it and inspect the brakes, when I lowered it the car sat really high up and the wheels had alot of positive camber (like when a car is sitting too high), I tried jumping on the car to lower, and nothing. I had to drive it to turn it around and then the front end was at stock height, but the rear wasn't. I tried jacking the rear end up and spraying some penetrating oil on the strut shaft, putting the jack under the rear lower control arm and lifting up to maybe pop it loose, and also try just dumping the jack and letting the car slam to the ground and bounce, and also just letting it sit for weeks. I had no luck, you can push on the rear and it will go down,but it springs right back to where it was. The front seems to eventually go down to stock height,but I can't get the rear to stay down. I know it's not the strut being restricted, because I can push on the car and it goes down to about stock height but just bounces back up.
Last edited by ZCHondaCRX91; 05-29-2011 at 10:32 AM.
05-29-2011, 10:39 AM
#2
More Than Meets The Eye
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 5,120
You either could have a bad master cylinder, or brake booster. Try bleeding the master cylinder again.
The coolant temperature sender should be on the right side of the thermostat housing. It usually has one yellow wire to it. Kind of a bullet type. Usually that wire is brittle or broke. I replaced it a while back with a new connector.
As for taking off the oil cap, and that engine wanting to die. That is normal, well for an N/A. Which I assume you have. And taking out the dipstick while running wont affect it as far as I know.
Do you have the stock suspension on the car? I know I have seen stock Z's, that the back end sat a little higher. I would rather the back end be a little more higher than the front Because my front end sits higher than the back. lol Which I have to deal with on my Z. It is annoying, and I can't wait to get my Tokico 255 handling setup.
The coolant temperature sender should be on the right side of the thermostat housing. It usually has one yellow wire to it. Kind of a bullet type. Usually that wire is brittle or broke. I replaced it a while back with a new connector.
As for taking off the oil cap, and that engine wanting to die. That is normal, well for an N/A. Which I assume you have. And taking out the dipstick while running wont affect it as far as I know.
Do you have the stock suspension on the car? I know I have seen stock Z's, that the back end sat a little higher. I would rather the back end be a little more higher than the front Because my front end sits higher than the back. lol Which I have to deal with on my Z. It is annoying, and I can't wait to get my Tokico 255 handling setup.
05-29-2011, 10:44 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 64
You either could have a bad master cylinder, or brake booster. Try bleeding the master cylinder again.
The coolant temperature sender should be on the right side of the thermostat housing. It usually has one yellow wire to it. Kind of a bullet type. Usually that wire is brittle or broke. I replaced it a while back with a new connector.
As for taking off the oil cap, and that engine wanting to die. That is normal, well for an N/A. Which I assume you have. And taking out the dipstick while running wont affect it as far as I know.
Do you have the stock suspension on the car? I know I have seen stock Z's, that the back end sat a little higher. I would rather the back end be a little more higher than the front which I have now. lol It is annoying, and I can't wait to get my Tokico 255 handling setup.
The coolant temperature sender should be on the right side of the thermostat housing. It usually has one yellow wire to it. Kind of a bullet type. Usually that wire is brittle or broke. I replaced it a while back with a new connector.
As for taking off the oil cap, and that engine wanting to die. That is normal, well for an N/A. Which I assume you have. And taking out the dipstick while running wont affect it as far as I know.
Do you have the stock suspension on the car? I know I have seen stock Z's, that the back end sat a little higher. I would rather the back end be a little more higher than the front which I have now. lol It is annoying, and I can't wait to get my Tokico 255 handling setup.
05-30-2011, 09:21 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 64
Okay, switched the coolant temp wires around so now it's all good. I tried driving it around my yard a little to try to get the suspension to lower down. I noticed it went down maybe an inch, you can see in the pictures what I mean. I also got one more question, on the front bumper is there suppose to be a gap like in the picture? I tried moving the bumper as far toward the hood, but this is the closest I could do. I'm in the middle of buffing the car that is what it looks so bad.
05-30-2011, 10:53 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 64
Okay, guess that makes sense. Any idea on the suspension? I wouldn't mind it sitting so high, but it makes it have so much positive camber. Do you think if I drive it more it will slowly lower more? Thanks guys.
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