I HAVE A EXTRA dropping resistor ...IF THATS WHAT THE BOX IN BACK OF THE WIPER WASHER TANK IS ????IT HAS THE SAME PART #'S ON IT ...I SWAPED IT IN AND STILL NOTHING :(

Try pulling the FI relay and replacing that??????


I WILL GO TRY TO FIND IT ...IS IT UNDER THE BLACK PANEL BY THE BATT????

Yeah that should be it. Just so you're sure it has a 6prong connector with these wires. LW, L, R, B, LY, G

And just in case you don't know, L=Blue. All the rest are pretty straight forward.

Oh and the L, and LW come from the fuse link box. So if the relay doesn't solve anything check that link too. It's the end link with two wires. (as opposed to the 1 wire, and 3 wire links)

I Feel So Stupied ..i Cant Figure This Out ...i Found What Seem To Be A Realy Under That Panel But It Didnt Smell Fried And So I Cleaned Up The Connections And Set The Batt Back In And Tryed It And Still Nothing ....
Dam It ....i Went And Check The Gold 79 Car Out Back It Uses A Diff Style Realy Under Ther .....i Need Helppppppppppppppppppppp J I Wish You Lived Next Door It Would Have Been Fix Days Ago

I'm on the plane :D It might not be fried, just has a broken connector that was worn and finally just took a crap. Or it could just be warped and will return to a workable state and the car will start again. And then it will warp again, and so on.... I looked at some diagrams and the 79 relay definitely wont work. You can try a parts store and see if they've got something in the morning. I don't think it should be that much for a relay. If you've got some spare wire I can tell you how to rig up the relay to test it to see if it's any good. Just let me know. You can also partially test it with just your meter. In all reality, it you want to start digging through your car I can tell you how to test all the circuits involved with the EFI. But that's up to you? Let me know.

Well It SeemS You Are The Only One Helping Me So ....itS Up To You I Want It To Run... So Lets Check Everything And Find Out Where The Problem Is ....just
Keep In Mind That I Know Nothing About Useing This Meter And I Have Only Done Car Stereo Wireing Befor ..

As long as you can set it to DC volts and aren't color blind (so you can find the wires) then it shouldn't be a problem. The first thing you need to do is get access to the relay so you can probe it with your meter. I don't know how far out of the fender it will come but the further the better. Test for volts between the LW wire and ground. And then test for volts between the L wire and ground. This will determine if the relay is even getting power from the battery. And it's an easy place to start. Oh and both of those are on the relay ;) Ground can be any good ground, the battery is a good one for this as we're just trying to determine if power exists. Check that and I'll work on getting you some more stuff to check.

OK I SET THE METER TO.................. dcv 20. i turned the key TO on and put the black wirer to the neg SIDE on the bat then i put the red one to LW and then to L ...I GOT THE SAME READING FROM BOTH -11.81



THERE IS A SMALLER THREE WIRE RELAY LOOKING THING NEXT TO THE FI RELAY...IT ALSO IS UNDER THAT BLACK PANEL AS WELL.... WHAT IS IT ???????????????

With the Ignition switch on, check for Voltage between the Red wire at the relay and a good ground. This will determine if the relay is sending power to the ECU.

Next, with the ignition switch ON, check for Voltage between the Green wire and a good ground. This will determine if the Injectors are getting power.

If the above checks worked out then the relay is fine. If they did not check out then try the checks below.

With the ignition switch ON, check for Voltage between the Black wire and the positve terminal on the battery. This determines if the relay is grounding or not.

With the ignition switch ON, check for Voltage between the Blue with Yellow stripe wire at the relay and a good ground. This determines if the relay is getting power.

This next check is only if the relay is not getting power.

To check for continuity you must switch the meter to Ohms (it the Omega symbol).

With battery disconnected and the meter switched to Ohms check for continuity between the the Blue with Yellow stripe wire at the relay and the Black with White stripe wire on the Ignition switch connector. You can get to this by pulling the lower dash cover off. If you follow the wires from the back of the ignition switch a short distance they lead to a 6 prong connector that only has 5 wires running to it. You'll get a reading in Ohm's. As long as you're getting a low reading then everything is OK there. A lot resistance (high Ohms) would mean there a problem with this circuit.

All the above Voltage checks should have a voltage reading of battery voltage.

Ok I Put The Meter To Dcv20. .....i Turned The Key On And Then Put The Red Wirer On The Meter To The Red Wire On The Realay ...then I Put The Black Meter Wire To The Blue Wire On The Relay And I Got Nothing 0.00

I Did The Same With The Blue And White And Green Wires And I Got A Reading Of 0.17 ????????????

I DID THE CHECK OF THE BLACK WIRE TO THE BATT AND GOT A READING OF 11.77



SMALL THINGY WIRERING COLRS ARE .......Y ......YB ........GW

Ok ...................

Ok I Did The Frist Two Tests And I Got A Reading Of 11.77 On Both
Red To Ground And Green To Ground

I Checked The Black To Batt Pos And Got The Same Reading There 11.77

I ALSO DID THE BLUE WITH YELLOW TO THE BATT GROUND AND GOT A READING OF 11.55

SO THIS RELAY IS GOLDEN ...WHATS NEXT

The small thingy is the horn relay.

Ok, now with the ignition ON test voltage between the green wire going into the dropping resistor and a ground.

And try this: If your meter has Ohms on it probe the two back connecters of the head temp sensor and let me know how many Ohm's/kOhm's it reads. Oh and a round about guestimate of what the temp. is out there.

If you cant probe with the connector still on the sensor, then pull it off and just take the measurement straight off the sensor. And the dropping resistor is on the left side (near the washer reservoir) and has an 8 prong connector.

it sparked when i put the red wire on the meter to the green wirer on the drop re
i used the bat to ground it ... meter was set two dcv20. ...sparking is scary...what do i do now did i do it wrong???

i unpluged the drop re and tryed it again and still with the sparking

Ah yes, the ECU controls ground. that right. Green wire to Positive on the battery. Hey, maybe we'll blow up the car before we fix it. My bad again. :D Oh and if everythings still hooked up on the car try starting it too. Couldn't hurt.

come into z chat on page two of the 280zx forums pages

Which doesn't really make much sense, that should be a positive circuit. It shouldn't spark like that when you touch ground from that green wire. I think we may have found your problem.Or atleast narrowed it down. If you're still here don't go try the positive test I just put.

Iam Here And IN CHAT.......... Tab Browseing THE SHIT


http://home.earthlink.net/~fubar_x/ZChat.html


COME IN HERE SO IT WILL BE REAL TIME TALK THOUGH

See when you put the Green to ground from the EFI relay it said you've got battery voltage. When you put the Green from the D.R. to ground it sparked. Well that's the same exact wire as the green to the relay. So double check both again and we may have this figured out now. I'll do some more diagram hunting to make sure on this. You'll have to excuse me, it's almost 3am over here so I'm not too confident in my thinking ability right now. So give me a couple try's on everything ;)

Do you have any wire laying around? Atleast a few feet.

Sorry Man I DidNT Even Think About The Time Diff...
WHAT DO YOU WANT ME TO CHECK ?????

YES ON THE WIRER

IF YOU WANT TO CHILL OUT ON THIS SO YOU CAN HIT THE SACK I UNDER STAND ...IF ...YOU WANT TO TRY AGAIN IN THE MORING WELL AFTER NOON ...WHATS A GOOD TIME TO MEET UP ?????

It Wont Work For Me I Dont Know ..............owell IT WAS A AFTER THOUGHT :)



So The Green Wirer Is The Problem I Dont Get It .... :)

THANK FOR ALL YOUR HELP YOUR THE MAN ;)

I Unpluged The Dr And Did It Just At The Connection