Guys,

Can somone tell me what the heck these hoses are used for in picture one please?

Also can you tell me what each of the valves are used for in picture two?

Thanks,
wgc_3

 

Do you have a Haynes manual? It explains it all in there.

Top pic... Air regulator & hoses going to AAC idle ports.

Bottom pic... 1 is the Emergency Release Valve, 2 is the AAC, 3 vacuum port for the vac tank & also connects to that smaller hose at the top of pic 1.

 

Is it all needed?

 

not really.
remove and block off the AAC port.
My suggestion is to leave the POV in place for a while. (emergency release valve)
You can remove the idle control valve, especially since you live in a warm climate.
The port below the AAC will be closed once you put a blockoff plate over the top where the valve was.
The one-way valve on intake port #4 where one of the large hoses goes to is a bypass valve. That is your stock 'BOV' so plug that only after you have installed a working BOV on your intake.
The vaccum port is needed to opperate your heater and/or AC controls in the car. You can just stem a couple lines from the port further back on the intake manifold. I did that and bypassed the vaccum canister. Every time I go to zero vaccum or boost my defrost starts blowing down on my feet and then back up to the windshield after I'm out of boost. Doesn't really bother me.

 

You didn't transfer the turbo vacuum pump & tank when you did the swap?

 

no, but I do have those items. I might put them in when I do the manual heater control swap.

 

OK not to get off topic!

But I can NOT for the life of me get the tie rods off, has anyone done this?

Thanks for the info BTW!

 

Where's your Haynes manual?

 

I read the Haynes and my Nissan factory manual they damn nuts will not budge.

 

So you've got the nut loose from the steering nuckle & that side of the tie rod is disconnected right? To break loose the inside connection (tie rod to steering rack), you just need two wrenches... one on the inside nut, and one on the tie rod. Then just push the wrenches away from each other to loosen them. Maybe spray some PB Blaster on it before hand.

 

I just bought deep creep maybe that'll help?!?!

 

Ok well I put the deep creep on........ still will not budge. I feel like an idiot....

On another note, for those of yall who have a pallnet fuel rail did yall get a fuel pressure regulator?

 

I have the JSK rail and I use the factory fuel pressure regulator. I also bought a fuel pressure gauge for it. pay a couple bucks more for a liquid filled one ($17 from Summit) I've seen the non-filled ones and the needle bounces so fast they are almost worthless.

 

I just had the guys from Pall put one on the rail. Can you post a picture of your fuelrail please so I can see how you have your configured for the factory regulator.

I'm thinking I am going to have someone put the tie rods on......... For the life of me the damn things won't budge. I'm afraid to break the pinion.

Bleach good to see you also, the tension rods you sent me are now on with the performance kit from Blackdragon they look groovey so thank you once again!