280ZX (S130) Forums Dedicated to 79-83 ZCars

Injector Problems

Old Sep 21, 2005 | 08:11 PM
  #1  
ThermalWake's Avatar
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Injector Problems

ok guys.. im totally fuked... i started my car eirler, and it was idleing extreamly rough. well.. we checked the plugs, theyre were good.. then discovered it was the 6th cylinder. well the plug fires, the wire is good. and we swapped 5 and 6 to see if it was wire or plug, and they are both good. my dad has a stethsascope thingy for cars, well there is a click click click click from each injectors, all of them are good. except the 6th one the 6th one doesnt click. so its not putting fuel in the cylinder. no fuel is getting in. so.. its either clogged, or the electrical work is bad. i need to know your guys imput this is my only vehical. please as soon as u can give me some imput i would appreshieate it
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 08:13 PM
  #2  
91Zman's Avatar
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have you driven it like this at all?
Does it accelerate jerky, thats what my car is doing now, so maybe we have a similar problem. although i have a 86zx
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 08:17 PM
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i refuse to dirve it on 5 cylinders thats just not good for it
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 08:20 PM
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i was just curious, cause im not sure whats wrong with mine, wondering if you had same symptoms as me.
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 08:28 PM
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The connector is probably corroded or the wiring could be wearing down from years of vibration. I've seen and had the same problems and all were fixed with a little rewiring. I used some Volvo connectors and just wired em into the FI harness. You can go on ebay too and get a whole set for pretty cheap. First and cheapest thing to do is to try to clean the connector first. If that doesn't work then you'll need to replace it. A quick trip to the junkyard could also turn up some connectors. Don't go looking for Z's though. Check the Volvo's. Some of them use the same connector, only better. It's got a push release and generally arent as corroded as those on the Z's (cause noone ever messes with their volvo )
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 08:33 PM
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And 86zman, just grab a flat head screwdriver and put the metal end to the FI and put your ear to the handle. You should be able to hear the injector clicking. If you're not sure just compare it to another injector. You'll be able to tell when you come to one that's not firing. A stethoscope is nice, but if you don't have one a screwdriver will work just fine. That's what I've always used. Oh and for both of you guys, you can borrow a Noid light kit from almost any parts store (may require a deposit, but they give it back). With that you can tell if the injector is even getting a signal from the ECU. Keep in mind to test it on not just the bad injector wires though as a corroded one can still cause it to flash, just not as brightly. But if it's not flashing at all then you know the problem is the circuit. (or ECU if none of them are working)
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 08:37 PM
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i swapped 2 wires the 5th and 6th one and the 6th injector still doesent work
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 08:41 PM
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If 5th was working before hand and and then 6ht didn't work with 5th's wiring then it's got to be the injector. Same deal though, head out to the junkyard (this time looking for Z's) or ask around on here for one. I guess you could get a new one too if you wanted. But yeah, I'd say you've eliminated whether or not it could be the circuit. Just check to make sure the injector contact itself isn't badly corroded and then go get yourself an injector.
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 08:42 PM
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could be clogged, or the pin could be stuck. I had that happen to me when I built my turbo motor. I just pulled the rail off the manifold & rested it on a sheet of plywood & cranked the engine to see which were spraying poorly. A good nudge w/ a small screwdriver fixed one. The other I had to pull & let it soak in solvent.

You should also check to make sure power is getting to the injector, by using an injector light, or if u know what you're doing, a multi-meter.
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 09:28 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
You should also check to make sure power is getting to the injector, by using an injector light, or if u know what you're doing, a multi-meter.
Noid light. Mentioned above. Multimeter could never in a million years have the response time to tell if an injector is firing properly. Firing, yes. Properly, no. That's why the noid lights use LED's. Cause a regular type bulb could never keep up with the pulse. It would just appear to stay on. LED's have a very rapid response time. You can however use an Ohmmeter to tell if there is a break in the injectors internal circuitry. If the injector checks out fine internally then it probably can be cleaned and refreshed. If it's internal circuit is damaged, it must be replaced. I'm not trying to kick dirt in your eyes Nismo, just some stuff I've learned. But you're right, he should probably try cleaning it before he buys another one. An O-scope would be the BEST way to check an injector, but that's usually available to the home mechanic.
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 09:33 PM
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naw it's cool. I should have been more specific when I said "if you know what you're doing."
Old Sep 21, 2005 | 11:59 PM
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Noid lights are nice, i bought a set of snap-on ones...should have just gone cheapo, its just an LED in a nice plastic case! Try tapping it with a screwdrivers, for some reason injectors (if they're just clogged or stuck) will un-stick and start working again if you jar it a little bit.
Old Sep 22, 2005 | 10:28 AM
  #13  
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oh yea...you can also use an analog voltometer, you can see the arm sweep every time there's an injector pulse...thats what i'd do if i couldn't get my hands on a noid light, then you'd know if its the wiring or not.
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