ThaPimpShrimp

I made the realization that this could possibly be the EGR right?

ThaPimpShrimp

Hey everyone!

So I got my new positive cable. Replaced the positive lead running to the fusible link box. Cleaned all of my connections and tested my battery. So far all is well with that, the positive terminal isn't heading up anymore so that's solved.

After doing that I started up my engine and it ran like crap so I turned it off and went inside. (It's below freezing out there!)

A couple hours later I went out to read my plugs to see what's up. Turns out they were soaked with fuel. I replaced them with my spare set I've got now and restarted my engine. I started pulling all of the sensors and wiggling electrics to see if I could make a difference. Pulled off the MAF connector and suddenly the idle smooths out at 1500rpm (engine's cold) but for obvious reasons it wouldn't rev. Plugged it back in and the idle stayed smooth and revved seemingly perfectly. So, I took it out for a test drive and it drove really well. It died once when kicking in the clutch after bringing it up to 5.5k and not shifting (just leaving the clutch in).

Idle still kinda moves around between 750 and 1000. Sounds smooth though, no more popping or anything for the most part.

ThaPimpShrimp

I've got a little more planned work for my car this week, but hypothetically I'll be attempting to smog my car again this weekend. Do you guys think I should retard the timing a bit just for safe measure? I'd really rather not drive it all the way down to the smog shop again.

If yes, how low do you think?

NismoPick

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...houghts-31671/

ThaPimpShrimp

0 in a turbo car? It'll run that low? Also I thought idle is adjusted by the ecu on the turbo's as well.

Edit: By the way because of where I live I only have to pass the idle test, not dyno.

ThaPimpShrimp

Well I'll be testing it Tuesday most likely. Since I got no answer about how low to retard the timing for a turbo engine (or about the idle) I'll just mess around with it tomorrow afternoon for a while and see what works.

ThaPimpShrimp

Hey Nismo (or anyone else!)

Just curious about one thing. I've seen you say that the factory timing an l28et us 24* however on the sticker under my hood it says 20*. Why is that?

NismoPick

5* to 10* timing would probably do it... you can still run it lower. Of course, if the engine and cat are properly working, the car will still pass at stock 24* timing.

Is your body an 81Turbo? The 81T FSM says 20* or 21*, the 82-83T says 24*. I have no idea why they were different.

ThaPimpShrimp

Well it's registered as an 82 but it could be a late 81 or something. The engine is pretty much identical though isn't it.. Weird how they would have the discrepancy. So your suggestion though is to just do the 24* when I am daily driving it?

And yeah I know it should! But I am in california, and I also don't want to spend the money to retest again should it fail haha.

NismoPick

Should be pretty easy to identify an 81T unless someone mix-and-matched a ton of parts (I can't remember everyone's car projects... ). The 81T has the 79-81 trim with the turbo hood, snowflake wheels, Crank Pulley CAS, 2seater, automatic trans with engine oil cooler, etc. And I imagine the production date followed today's standards as well (August forward is the next model year).

I would set the timing to ~5* BTDC.

ThaPimpShrimp

I am not sure of the differences in trim but (in order) I have the turbo hood, swastika wheels, 4 Seater, used to be an automatic but has a manual swap, mine also has bitchin betty, and the headlight sprayers which I think were 82+ only right? Weird. Maybe just the hood is old or swapped but I wouldn't think so.. same color and seems original.

You're saying ~5* for the smog test I assume. I'll give it a shot. I am going to get off early today hopefully and get my car good to go for smog.

And again, you'd suggest 24* for my engine, not 20* right? Out of curiosity what do you run yours at. We've got a similar setup minus the intercooler.

ThaPimpShrimp

Just an FYI.. my car is running rich again for some reason. Probably because I didn't allow it to warm up last time so I never noticed. Just going through I quick check I noticed when I unplugged my O2 sensor there was no change. Maybe now it's all gunked up from my car running rich previously or something. I'll look into testing it. Any other quick tests for running rich problems?

Gonna pull ecu codes in a minute and maybe take out my MAF to check that because I never have personally.