ThaPimpShrimp

Hey everyone!

Long time no see!

I've been busy lately, started up full time work and college (ugh!) and its been hectic, but I am finally working on my car again. Last time I was on here I was having issues, and those haven't been resolved yet. I couldn't figure it out.. till this morning.

I got her started and began messing with things and through trial and error I found out a couple of the the injector clips on my car aren't connected right any more (they're new clips, but it looks like the guy who did them before must not have soldered them right.. or at all).

So, I am going to go outside and start pulling all of the heatshrink off and take a look, and then I'll find out what I have to do. Maybe I'll need to get some new clips(FricFrac? ).

Just wanted to give an update and say whassup! I'm excited to be working on my car again and I forgot how fun this thing is.

SportBikeMike

Welcome back, and good luck on your progress with the car.

ThaPimpShrimp

Thanks! Just found out they were crimped on and fell loose, probably when I was pulling the intake manifold off.

I know for sure one of them is bad so I'm in the process of checking the rest now.

borini63

Welcome back to the Z world,and welcome back for more challenges.
Keep Them Running!

ThaPimpShrimp

I went through and re did all of the connections and it certainly runs much better, but still not right.

Once it's warmed up it wants to idle over 1k, but sometimes drops to about 700. It runs much smoother but acceleration is still slower than normal and doesn't seem to be building up enough boost.

For now though I need to get a new banjo bolt and washers for the turbo oil line. It's still leaking and smoking and I can't get it to stop with just new washers. Anyone know what size I need or where I can get them? T3/T4 hybrid turbo if it makes a difference.

NismoPick

^^^ If you have a Fastenal nearby, they'd be the best bet: Locations | Fastenal

FricFrac

I would think they would use a copper crush washer to seal properly.

Did you check all the vacuum lines and the AFM?

ThaPimpShrimp

Thanks for the tip, I've got one relatively close to my work so I'll be stopping by some time this week.


Vacuum is good, I've got that z31 ecu swap so I'll recheck the MAF. Wasn't in the mood to keep going after soldering all of those connections in my engine bay.

ThaPimpShrimp

Fastenal would have to order me a pack of 10, and those were just a similar size, the OD was 1mm smaller I think.

I found these that look about right, but I don't see an OD or Thickness measurement. I asked the seller to answer that for me.

NismoPick

Is your hybrid turbo just the upgraded compressor side and stock exhaust housing, or is it a completely different turbo? Are you still using the stock oil feel line?

If it's stock... it would be much easier to take a trip to your local Nissan dealer.

You could even have the part# ready by finding it at http://nissan4u.com

ThaPimpShrimp

Update! - Tried those washers and I still had leaking. I'm going to be taking a trip to Nissan to hopefully find a new Banjo bolt. I got a tip from the PO that he may have accidentally used one with the wrong thread pitch.. just a very similar one.

Car seems to be running pretty great! Has a bit of a tiny tiny stumble at idle but I've heard that's normal too. And it doesn't build any boost at all really in first(stock gauge doesn't go past 0 pretty sure), 2nd-5th definitely do. The PO also says is normal.


Thoughts?

(PS thanks for the link Nismo!)

NismoPick

So how do the threads look on that banjo bolt? If he used the wrong thread pitch, you'd see it on the threads.

It should build boost in first gear... It should wind up REALLY fast in first.

ThaPimpShrimp

I'll pull it out tomorrow and check for you.

And really? It doesn't at all. All of the other gears it picks up amazingly but first I get no boost. No idea what could cause that?

Boost controller? I have a Greddy Profec b spec 1.

NismoPick

The turbo should spool in any gear because all it needs is load and time to get past ~2800rpm.

So if you punch it to full throttle in first gear, even at 5k rpm's there is no boost? Does it pull like it's boosting?

What turbocharger do you have? I know it's a T3/T4 hybrid... but which turbo?

ThaPimpShrimp

No boost at 5k rpms, and no it doesn't feel like it at all. That is why it was worrying. Pretty sure it hits about 0 through first but never passes it like the wastegate is open.. If it'll help I can take a video at some point.

From the PO:
Nissan T3/T4 Turbo
T04B Compressor Housing .70AR
"H" trim Compressor Wheel
Nissan .63 Turbine Housing with wastegate assembly
Stage 1 turbine wheel

Compressor map

ThaPimpShrimp

Any ideas on the Turbo Nismo? (Not sure if you got a chance to look at this..)

Also, I got my new banjo bolt in today, and there is a definite size difference. So hopefully this fixes the oil leak problem, however before installing it I want you to verify it is right for me. The old bolt has much larger ports, particularly on the bottom. Will this new one allow enough oil to flow?

Sorry if its crap quality, my good camera broke and this one doesn't like close ups apparently.

NismoPick

Is that new banjo bolt from Nissan? If so, I would have no worries at all. The oil feed line is pressurized... so it will get oil.

What psi boost are you running? Do you have a boost controller? Aftermarket boost gauge?

ThaPimpShrimp

I don't have an aftermarket gauge, the boost controller is a Greddy Profec B Spec 1. According to the PO the boost was supposed to be at 12 but I haven't touched it, and the kid who owned it before me definitely may have.

The guy who calibrated it, did it with a bicycle pump and then installed it onto the car apparently.

I'm not all that familiar with how boost controllers work (I am reading now..)


Either way I don't really see how the would be affecting boost in just first gear. It really make absolutely no sense to me. But maybe that's because I don't fully understand boost controllers.

ThaPimpShrimp

Update on the boost controller. I understand how they work for the most part now and I'll be able to calibrate it myself when I get the chance. However I can't see how it would be affecting my boost only in first. If that is possible feel free to enlighten me, otherwise I am open to any other suggestions.

Another update - The only thing I was able to get done after work today was install the new Banjo Bolt and washers from Nissan. No luck, it is still leaking even when torqued down tight. Here are some pictures, oil is pooling on top of this part here:


(Sorry for the size and quality, it was dark :\)
Which leads me to believe it's leaking out underneath the bottom washer. The top part seemed completely dry. Perhaps that part got warped? Is it pretty easily replaceable or removable? (I couldn't find the part name, didn't see it in my quick search of the FSM and Nissan4u is down). Looked like it was just two bolts or so to pull it off of there..

Edit: The Spacer-Oil Tube? And I assume if I replace that I'd have to replace the Gasket-Connector as well. (Parts 8 and 13) http://nissan4u.com/parts/280zx/us_s...turbo_charger/

ThaPimpShrimp

Found the source of the leak, just where I suspected. Looks like it got damaged somehow.

NismoPick

Yerp... that would do it. I'm surprised you didn't notice that during the 10 times you removed & installed the banjo bolt.

ThaPimpShrimp

Hahaha I am too but it was towards the back and I didn't really think about it. Plus its usually dark when I work on my car!

Excuses aside I am just glad that's figured out! On to the next thing, at least I can stop worrying about smoke now

ThaPimpShrimp

"Good news everyone!"

Pretty sure that oil leak is gone for good! Got my timing all set up and it seems like things are going well, minus my temp gauge reading way too high when I drive.

When I removed the intake/exhaust I did have to drain a lot of coolant, I refilled it but maybe there is an air bubble in the system? I have a read a bit on "burping" it. Basically parking the front end uphill, take off your radiator cap and let it get up to operating temp. I assume turn on the heater as well (though I don't believe mine works).

Aside from that anything I should look for? I don't have a shroud but that shouldn't cause so much of an issue even at highway speeds. I have a larger 3 core aluminum radiator installed. Could it just be electrical? I replaced the sensor because the old one didn't work at all.

Also, my oil temp gauge reads nothing, just pressure. I will likely end up looking things up in the FSM about it but it's always nice when someone chimes in with advice on what to check and "where to looks".

NismoPick

Ohm test the water temp sensor.
Is the rad cap hot when at running temp? If not... not enough coolant.
After the car has cooled down, just pop the cap and check the level.

The oil temp sensor is on the bottom of the oil pan right by the drain plug. It's the first casualty when you run over something. I stocked up on them about 10 years ago... hard to find, and costly these days.

ThaPimpShrimp

I'll check out all of this stuff tonight, and attempt to do an ohm test on the senor, I think I saw instructions in my haynes? If not I have read a bit online.

Eek yikes about the oil temp sensor... maybe mines just unplugged but I doubt it. My car is pretty low.