So today I made a really stupid mistake. I had finally gotten everything together on my car and wanted to take it out for a test drive. Got to the top of my street and I noticed some smoke... great.

Turns out I didn't have the oil line bolted in tight enough and so oil spilled out and was burning. So I thought okay I'll bolt it in. I did, and now I have no boost and either the oil is still burning off or the turbo is putting out smoke.. I don't see any from the exhaust.

The boost gauge doesn't move at all.

I don't know what to do now, is there a particular way that bolt is supposed to go in?

I am trying to avoid the assumption that my turbo is fried but I guess that's the most plausible thing. I really screwed myself didn't I. I guess I'm going to just try and pull the intake off and take a look at it..

 

#1: Which oil line? Which connection?
#2: Can you hear the turbo spool up?
#3: Why are you going to pull the intake?

 

The oil line to the top of the turbo. The one with the bolt that the oil runs through. I left it too loose and it poured oil out which means I assume it wasn't getting to the turbo. Is there a certain way it has to go in? Because I just tightened it up.

Yes I can hear the turbo spool but not as much as it did seemingly, though that may just be because it's running shitty and something else is wrong.

I was pulling off the rubber between my MAF and the turbo to take a look at it. I can spin the turbo fine and there isnt any play so I think it's okay.

I did find out that my boost gauge vacuum line wasnt hooked up to the manifold which means I must have some things out of order so next chance I get I'll be taking a look at the FSM and putting them right.

Aside from that, anything else sudden that kind kinda cause this? It's sputtery and feels like it did when my CHTS went out, but it's not. I am also planning on checking codes and making sure my ecu plugs are grounding.

 

Do you have the 2 brass washers on either side of the banjo fitting that the bolt goes through?

 

Yes sir.

 

I got the vacuum lines all fixed, boost gauge and controller are now together correctly and working.

Notably the car still runs like crap, it actually does better before it warms up for whatever reason. I feel like this is an ignition problem but I am not sure yet.

There is still the problem of oil leaking from the top of the turbo where the line comes in. I maybe assembled it wrong so when it cools off I am going to go take it back apart..

 

Just as an update, last night I did pull the oil line back off and I couldn't find any problems. Reassembled it, brass washer, oil line, brass washer and the bolt through the center. How tight and I supposed to bolt it in?

 

And? Is it still leaking?

Probably 30-40ft/lbs. Upon install I always hit those brass washers with 220grit then 400grit sand paper by hand to get them smooth and straight. Also the oil line fitting. Then spray w/ brake cleaner.

 

Not sure since the second reassembly but it was when I first tightened it up. I'll pull them off and clean and straighten them this afternoon.

Any ideas about my weird problem or things I can test for? I find it strange that it gets much worse when it warms up and it isn't a fuel pressure problem so it must be ignition. Basically it feels like its cutting out and isn't getting spark.

 

Could be a dying ignitor (intermittent spark when warm / hot).
Pull your plugs and read the tips.
Are you running an a/f gauge?
Have you checked / fixed the notorious ecu plug wiring probs?

 

I'll check the plugs.

I am not running an a/f gauge.

And no, I haven't done anything to remedy the ecu plugs. What exactly is the problem with them, how can I fix them, and is there a way I can tell if they are the problem?

Is the ignitor the "power transistor" in the FSM?

 

Done some research on the module (even found some posts by you nismo ) and there's a good possibility its related to that. I'll be checking all of the connections to and from it and possibly swap one in.

1982 280ZX Ignition Problems


Edit: Holy crap I just remembered my ecu threw a code for the "Power Transistor" but it was on and off...

 

Well no luck today, checked the plugs and they were a bit white (which means running too hot if I am not mistaken) but still in new condition. Gap was good so I just reinstalled them after cleaning them a bit.

I checked over all of the electrical from my distributor and ignition coil. I am running a 300zx ignition coil so I am sure it looks a bit different than a stock one. Not sure if that leaves room for other things to have gone wrong..

Where is my ignitor module located? Also what does that plug underneath the distributor do.

What should my next step be!

 

Should be right near the coil. Square-ish 1"x1" black box... looks like the 280zx one with 1-2 extra wires. Which plug under the distributor? The round connection one?

This....

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...-issues-35136/

 

Alright I'll start looking into it more, I'll need to get some z31 plugs and swap them for the ones I've got right? If I am having this issue I should get it to work correctly if I wiggle them around right? Just to see.

I'll read the codes it's throwing tonight to see if the Power Transistor is on there again.

Also its the rectangular plug that goes into the distributor, it attaches to the wiring harness. What does it do and could that cause the problem?

 

Tomorrow afternoon I'm going to stop by Pick-n-pull. They have a couple 80's 300zx's there and I'll grab some plugs and the ignition control module.

Do I need anything else to replace the plugs?

 

Soldering iron / gun, solder, heat shrink, electrical tape, wiring schematics. Also misc electrical connections and at least one spool of wire would be handy in case you want to make any changes (I pig tailed in a wire for my a/f gauge).

Give yourself as much wire as possible on the Z31 ecu plugs.

Obviously cut out and solder in one plug at a time, and write down all the wiring colors before hand so you don't get confused once you have more than one cut wiring staring up at you.

Found the pic I posted when I was doing mine. The black wires on the left are the notorious faulty grounds (already replaced w/ Z31 plug):

 

Alright I'll do my best, never attempted anything like this before but I do know how to solder and understand wiring on a basic level

Ironic my major in college is going to be Electrical Engineering no?

 

BY THE WAY, there are four 280zx's and three 300zx's in the yard near my work. If someone would like me to go there and try to find something for them I can do my best. Today I have limited tools with me (screwdrivers, pliers, and wire cutters), but I can go back. You just pay shipping and whatever it cost me.

I do only have an hour today, but let me know before about 4:30pm PST.

Make Model Year Row Date On Yard
Datsun 280zx 77 0048 06/04/2012
Datsun 280zx 77 0048 06/04/2012
Datsun 280zx 76 0048 06/06/2012
Datsun 280zx 76 0049 05/24/2012

Nissan 300ZX 87 0045 06/15/2012
Nissan 300ZX 87 0048 06/13/2012
Nissan 300ZX 85 0050 05/18/2012

 

If either if those 87 Z31's are turbo, check for LSD.

 

I'll certainly check it out, those things are worth some cash! (I just found out :P )

 

Having just put in a new motor in my 83 turbo, I had similar problems although not much to fix. I replaced the brass washers as they were in my gasket kit. No oil leaks. The other problem was the car running a little rough at start up.....OK, I checked all the connectors that I was so sure were connected and found two were not seated very well. Engine runs smooth.
I changed all the vacuum lines on the intake.
Rebuilt the engine completely.
Some new sensors, cyclinder head temp.
Cleaned the ECU connectors prior to firing.
New hoses and belts.
Check you banjo brass seals and as suggested, make sure there is no dent on the banjo. Its just leaking oil.

 

Lol exactly what I was thinking

 

Unfortunately the only turbo was of course the '85 ):

 

I have two questions, both of which are likely stupid

I noticed what looked like my ground to the engine block (Below the spark plugs, near the bottom, two prongs) was disconnected, so I reattached the two wires I found (connects to the same part of the harness as the CHTS). It didnt seem to make any different in how the engine runs and I find that strange. Do they need to go in a particular order? And what exactly does it do..

And today it looks like I'll start soldering in the new plugs I suppose if I can't find anything else to fix it. Nismo (or whomever) do I pull the wires out of the plugs I have? Or cut the harness and solder the two wires together. I left a couple inches of wiring on the new plugs I got.

Edit: Also, just as a side note, I still find this problem to be very strange.. At 3,000rpm my boost gauge is still reading boost under 0PSI and by 5,000 or so it is maybe at 2. I know that gauge isn't super accurate but still. The feeling I get from the engine is that its stuttering almost, not igniting. The word that comes to mind is misfire but I don't know what that consists of. Just seems accurate. And of course it feels worse as you rev up the engine.