How F*cked am I?
06-30-2012, 12:15 PM
#26
So here's another update! (That was fast...)
Cylinders 1 and 5 aren't firing. At least not all the time.. looks like the wire may be the culprit for #1 at least so I think I'll just go through and do the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, just go know they're brand new. I did the plugs before but they're cheap soo.. can't hurt.
If that doesn't help it'll be into the injectors and clips I suppose.
So here's a question, I've been told to get the Copper NGK BPR7ES11 plugs, rockauto only has the 6es plugs in stock. If I understand it correctly, the 7es plugs are colder. Should I look for those or will the 6es do fine.
Cylinders 1 and 5 aren't firing. At least not all the time.. looks like the wire may be the culprit for #1 at least so I think I'll just go through and do the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, just go know they're brand new. I did the plugs before but they're cheap soo.. can't hurt.
If that doesn't help it'll be into the injectors and clips I suppose.
So here's a question, I've been told to get the Copper NGK BPR7ES11 plugs, rockauto only has the 6es plugs in stock. If I understand it correctly, the 7es plugs are colder. Should I look for those or will the 6es do fine.
Last edited by ThaPimpShrimp; 06-30-2012 at 01:04 PM.
06-30-2012, 04:36 PM
#27
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
I have two questions, both of which are likely stupid 
I noticed what looked like my ground to the engine block (Below the spark plugs, near the bottom, two prongs) was disconnected, so I reattached the two wires I found (connects to the same part of the harness as the CHTS). It didnt seem to make any different in how the engine runs and I find that strange. Do they need to go in a particular order? And what exactly does it do..
And today it looks like I'll start soldering in the new plugs I suppose if I can't find anything else to fix it. Nismo (or whomever) do I pull the wires out of the plugs I have? Or cut the harness and solder the two wires together. I left a couple inches of wiring on the new plugs I got.
Edit: Also, just as a side note, I still find this problem to be very strange.. At 3,000rpm my boost gauge is still reading boost under 0PSI and by 5,000 or so it is maybe at 2. I know that gauge isn't super accurate but still. The feeling I get from the engine is that its stuttering almost, not igniting. The word that comes to mind is misfire but I don't know what that consists of. Just seems accurate. And of course it feels worse as you rev up the engine.
I noticed what looked like my ground to the engine block (Below the spark plugs, near the bottom, two prongs) was disconnected, so I reattached the two wires I found (connects to the same part of the harness as the CHTS). It didnt seem to make any different in how the engine runs and I find that strange. Do they need to go in a particular order? And what exactly does it do..
And today it looks like I'll start soldering in the new plugs I suppose if I can't find anything else to fix it. Nismo (or whomever) do I pull the wires out of the plugs I have? Or cut the harness and solder the two wires together. I left a couple inches of wiring on the new plugs I got.
Edit: Also, just as a side note, I still find this problem to be very strange.. At 3,000rpm my boost gauge is still reading boost under 0PSI and by 5,000 or so it is maybe at 2. I know that gauge isn't super accurate but still. The feeling I get from the engine is that its stuttering almost, not igniting. The word that comes to mind is misfire but I don't know what that consists of. Just seems accurate. And of course it feels worse as you rev up the engine.
The two female bullet connectors beside the CHTS plug into your knock sensor.
With the pigtail kits I sell you cut back the old wiring where it is cracked or hardened as the new pigtails replace that section of old wiring.
06-30-2012, 04:40 PM
#28
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
So here's another update! (That was fast...)
Cylinders 1 and 5 aren't firing. At least not all the time.. looks like the wire may be the culprit for #1 at least so I think I'll just go through and do the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, just go know they're brand new. I did the plugs before but they're cheap soo.. can't hurt.
If that doesn't help it'll be into the injectors and clips I suppose.
So here's a question, I've been told to get the Copper NGK BPR7ES11 plugs, rockauto only has the 6es plugs in stock. If I understand it correctly, the 7es plugs are colder. Should I look for those or will the 6es do fine.
Cylinders 1 and 5 aren't firing. At least not all the time.. looks like the wire may be the culprit for #1 at least so I think I'll just go through and do the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, just go know they're brand new. I did the plugs before but they're cheap soo.. can't hurt.
If that doesn't help it'll be into the injectors and clips I suppose.
So here's a question, I've been told to get the Copper NGK BPR7ES11 plugs, rockauto only has the 6es plugs in stock. If I understand it correctly, the 7es plugs are colder. Should I look for those or will the 6es do fine.
06-30-2012, 04:55 PM
#29
Plugs are a big deal on a turbo car as they can take enought heat out of the combustion chamber to keep your engine from knocking. You can use BPRE6ES plugs for a stock engine but once you start to get more performance going to a BPRE7ES is a good idea. I can't remember exactly but I think the 11 at the end is for a wider gap than we normally run on our cars
07-05-2012, 09:43 PM
#31
Well I got my new Cap, Rotor, and Wires today. Those NGK Wires are a lot better quality, and everything certainly made a difference! Most of the backfiring when letting off of the gas went away also! Didnt have much time to play with it yet though!
Stil have the oil leak on the turbo and even after flattening out the washers it still leaks. The guy who owned the car before thinks he may have put the wrong sized bolt on.. but I don't know yet.
Stil have the oil leak on the turbo and even after flattening out the washers it still leaks. The guy who owned the car before thinks he may have put the wrong sized bolt on.. but I don't know yet.
07-07-2012, 06:22 PM
#32
So I spent a good majority of my day detailing the car (cleaning the seats, carpets, and rest of the interior) and it looks much much better. Carpets are like new!
Then, I decided to put in the new spark plugs (BPR7ES-11) and now my car runs terribly again. I dont know why new plugs would cause it to be worse.. I left them at the gap they came with which looked to be about .41 or .42. I checked them to be sure they were all the same.
Any ideas?
Then, I decided to put in the new spark plugs (BPR7ES-11) and now my car runs terribly again. I dont know why new plugs would cause it to be worse.. I left them at the gap they came with which looked to be about .41 or .42. I checked them to be sure they were all the same.
Any ideas?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Switchtr3
280ZX (S130) Forums
9
05-30-2012 02:57 PM
Bookmarks
