Opinions please, this is the game plan when I overhaul this winter. I was thinking a p90 head ported and polished, I already have the motorsport 3 into 2 headers that will bolt right up to the p90. I want to hone the block, and re-ring it, cant really afford new pistons. But I dont know about a cam choice I want something wild but still decent on gas. I know motorsport has a decent selection, any one running HKS or something different. Would I have to get different valves to accomadate it or can I run my stock valves? Last but not least injectors need to be replaced(again) go turbo or stay stock, turbo=money. I would like to keep it under $2,500 w/new clutch. Fire away...

 

There's lots of threads here that talk about cam selection.... Things to know....

1ST WHAT IS YOUR HP GOAL?

2ND... WHAT KIND OF DRIVING WILL YOU BE DOING? ... auto-x? drifting? drag? street racing? The cam selection depends on what RPM range you will want the most power.

 

HP goal would be to touch 170-200HP, I dino'd @ 133hp/144ftlbs w/cold air and the headers, stock motor w/210k on the block. Street would be the main attraction, I still want a dependable car, some of my buddy's have said I could get a pretty aggressive cam and still be OK, I think it would be attainable with fresh bottom end work, and a good head.

 

The bottom end work won't do anything for your driveability. I would be surprised if your rings are a problem either. As I've said before, I've seen Z's with 250k+ miles on the engine and the cylinder walls still had the original factory hone marks. If you've got good compression across all six cylinders, I would save your money and avoid the bottom end work.

For street driving, I would stick with a Stage 1 cam. If you want more power, you can go to a stage 2 but you'll give up a little driveability.

For what you seem to want, your existing P79 head should be fine. It has the same combustion chamber size as the P90. The only difference is a slight change in the dome shape and the exhaust liners that have been proven over and over again to not affect performance for mildly modified cars.

Why are you replacing your injectors 'again'? Are they going out on a regular basis?

With only minor mods, ie. cam and header, there's almost no way you can get another 37-67 WHEEL hp.

Make sure you get the Cam Kit ($580 I think) if you order it from MSA. It comes with nearly everything your shop will need to setup your cam. Might as well get the timing chain done if it's got very much slack or it's on the #2 or #3 mark.

 

This all started last year, I pulled the head off when I did the timing chain, new valve seals, milled the head ground the valves n' seats, didnt touch the bottom end....stupid. put er' back together cause the cylinder walls looked great, still get a little blow by and compression reads 160psi on 4 n' 5 cyl. Not horible but I already want to tear it back down cause I'm not satisfied with it. I did the injectors 6 years ago so I think there gona have to be done soon enough(there starting to weep at #1 n' 6). I dont want a track car, but want something I can sling around the corners w/ good torque, n' not break my piggy bank, I'm still saveing $$ and was more or less interested in what setups some of you guys are running, what kind of driving you all do, kind of RWHP you're putting out, and if theres something you would have done different in retrospect. Thnks

 

Here it comes everyone... drum roll....

If you want power, but don't want to blow your life savings: Get a turbo engine (L28ET)

 

Yeah....can't argue with that....I tried, lol!

 

I some how knew it was going to revert to turbos, what about a chevy LT/LS swap... sacreligious???

 

Nope... just more expensive.

 

ya my turbo swap was free

$500 for two parts cars. One of them turbo. Sold over $500 in parts from them after I kept everything I wanted. muahaha!

 

^^^ Turbo - But mine was more expensive than an LS7 swap...

 

If you want a high compression motor, find an N42 head. With a stage 2 cam, you'll have about 10.5:1 compression.

Of course you will have to get a bigger AFM to handle the air intake demands...

 

if u were to do a LT/LS swap yeah it would b more expensive, alot more, but if u have the money to do it, if your going to be draggin thats the way id go. cuz i am. i make 4g's a month in iraq, while im over there, thats wats going in my Z a forged LS7 427 block. alot of little nick nacks. but thats wat im lookin at. LS7 on cam heads and headers went 668/673 on motor alone, and on top of that im gana do a direct port 350 duel stage.

 

360 degree duration cam should be good

 

wouldn't ahve to worry about top end. Idle might suffer a little though