280ZX (S130) Forums Dedicated to 79-83 ZCars

FINALLY. New Gasket Time!

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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:46 AM
  #51  
WanganDevilZ's Avatar
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The Emblem Thief y0!
 
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From: Tulsa, Ok
Lol, my subname, i just noticed it xD!!!!

Also, my valves arent getting clean, i'm even tapping at them with a small pick and the carbon buildup isnt coming off.

suggestions?
Old Aug 2, 2010 | 03:42 PM
  #52  
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The Emblem Thief y0!
 
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There is a little hole that the tensioner slides into? Behind it? I assume there would need to be one for the spring...

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On a scale of 1-10, how retarded is it to reset without taking the timing cover off?
Old Aug 2, 2010 | 04:28 PM
  #53  
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From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
11 on the scale of retardedness. I think ONE person ONE time claimed on HBZ to have reset it w/ a small long screwdriver.... the actual chances of getting it in blind is very slim to none. In any case, your cover is off right?

I don't think there's a hole for a pin lock like newer motors (I know the KA has one). Just shove it in & keep tension on the chain w/ the block of wood you should have used in the beginning.
Old Sep 1, 2010 | 04:59 AM
  #54  
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Alright, manned up, took that bitch off, chucked it, now i'm sitting here with a broken water pump bolt and no idea what TQ the timing cover and water pump bolts should be at.

Info plox?

Last edited by WanganDevilZ; Sep 1, 2010 at 05:27 AM.
Old Sep 1, 2010 | 08:05 AM
  #55  
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You're doing all this without a manual?

Here are your torque specs (BTW, you can download the FSM at www.xenons130.com/reference)
Attached Thumbnails FINALLY. New Gasket Time!-tc-torque.jpg  
Old Sep 1, 2010 | 09:02 AM
  #56  
WanganDevilZ's Avatar
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
You're doing all this without a manual?

Here are your torque specs (BTW, you can download the FSM at www.xenons130.com/reference)
I have a manual, and as soon as I saw this, I turned like, right to the page I needed. I may need some help with my timing in a few days, unless I get my friends L28 out of his wrecked 280zx, as he has rb25 plans for it.
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 08:39 AM
  #57  
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From: Valdosta GA
Originally Posted by WanganDevilZ
There is a little hole that the tensioner slides into? Behind it? I assume there would need to be one for the spring...



On a scale of 1-10, how retarded is it to reset without taking the timing cover off?
This looks familiar....
Old Sep 2, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #58  
WanganDevilZ's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 280zx2by2
This looks familiar....
I used it for reference xD

Couldnt find any other pictures of it.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 10:07 AM
  #59  
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Fml...

When my water pump bolt snapped, wasnt a big deal cause I could get to it.

Now a headbolt has snapped, while I was torquing it down, down in the threads. Not really any way to get to it either. When I was pulling it out there was some brown dust that smelled like smoke.

Guess I'm stuck with the RB20 for a while. I miss my L28 roar =(

And I wanted to have her running by our anniversary too. ****

I might as well just part out what I can from the L28, not alot to save from it tho =/

Last edited by WanganDevilZ; Sep 3, 2010 at 10:09 AM.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 10:17 AM
  #60  
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Dude... how do you snap a head bolt?! Either that head bolt was weak (and shouldn't have been re-installed) or you over-torqued the hell out of it. They should only go to ~60ft/lbs... and you get there in 3 torque pattern rotations... ~25, then ~40, then your final.

How far down in did it break? Pics? I had an already broken headbolt in my 22RE 4Runner. It broke flush w/ the top of the block so I welded a bolt on it & backed it out.

If it broke off down inside, get a carbide spade bit, drill a center hole, and use a 4-edge tapered extractor to get it out.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 10:26 AM
  #61  
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The Emblem Thief y0!
 
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
Dude... how do you snap a head bolt?! Either that head bolt was weak (and shouldn't have been re-installed) or you over-torqued the hell out of it. They should only go to ~60ft/lbs... and you get there in 3 torque pattern rotations... ~25, then ~40, then your final.

How far down in did it break? Pics? I had an already broken headbolt in my 22RE 4Runner. It broke flush w/ the top of the block so I welded a bolt on it & backed it out.

If it broke off down inside, get a carbide spade bit, drill a center hole, and use a 4-edge tapered extractor to get it out.
This was bolt number 14. I had some **** trying to get it out. This is the bolt that I had to unscrew the entire length of the block and the head, it wouldnt just pull out or drop in like the rest, so there was probably some **** backed down in there that I failed to notice, or it is bent. Needless to say, ****ed up on my behalf overtorqueing. Not sure on how far down in there it is. This is massive ***** cause now I only need one headbolt, as 1-13 arent torque'd past 30. It probably isnt too far down in there, I'm just pessimistic at the moment. Been working on this for a year and as soon as I'm starting to put it back together I **** up. I'll take the head off after I get back from work tonight.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 11:25 AM
  #62  
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Join the club man. I have been almost a year without a running Z. Last September, I blew the head on my T-top, then the gasket on my Slicktop. All in the same weekend! And I have been working on my Slicktop since then. Still is apart, and not ready to run. I so want to hear my L28 run also. I miss my Z alot.

So let's get them going. We can do it bro'. Have more patience, and take your time. Do not rush, and the rewards will be worth it. Trust me on this. I have had my Z down before.

And a word of advice. Not to say NismoPick is wrong. Torque the bolts a little at a time. Start at 25, then work your way up. Don't really think of how many times you will torque the bolts. I went 25, 40, 45, 50, 55. Something like that. Whatever works for you. But do start at a lower number. And do a little at at time. Until you get the max torque. Then do the max torque one more round. To assure you have all the bolts to the right specifications. And according to my FSM, 55ft lbs. is maximum torque.

Anyway you and I will get there. Good luck to both of us.
Old Sep 3, 2010 | 11:32 AM
  #63  
WanganDevilZ's Avatar
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The Emblem Thief y0!
 
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Tulsa, Ok
Originally Posted by WildmaN
Join the club man. I have been almost a year without a running Z. Last September, I blew the head on my T-top, then the gasket on my Slicktop. All in the same weekend! And I have been working on my Slicktop since then. Still is apart, and not ready to run. I so want to hear my L28 run also. I miss my Z alot.

So let's get them going. We can do it bro'. Have more patience, and take your time. Do not rush, and the rewards will be worth it. Trust me on this. I have had my Z down before.

And a word of advice. Not to say NismoPick is wrong. Torque the bolts a little at a time. Start at 25, then work your way up. Don't really think of how many times you will torque the bolts. I went 25, 40, 45, 50, 55. Something like that. Whatever works for you. But do start at a lower number. And do a little at at time. Until you get the max torque. Then do the max torque one more round. To assure you have all the bolts to the right specifications. And according to my FSM, 55ft lbs. is maximum torque.

Anyway you and I will get there. Good luck to both of us.
Thanks man. I know I'll eventually get there, just really ticked at the moment. Thinking about selling my prelude and my Rx7 and getting an NA 280z, to me that makes sense.
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