Ok guys so I am rebuilding the the motor on my 83zxt auto.

So far i Have a Rebuilt p90a head totally cleaned i bought from ebay.
New fuel injectors
Complete Gasket Set

Also looking to buy a new Water pump, Timing Chain set and Oil pump.

I would like to have some extra HP but my main concern is passing smog in California. I have been looking to buy a N42 intake manifold just so i can have a cleaner look on the engine. I have heard that it will still pass smog with this manifold installed. I don't think i will have a problem with the visual part of the test. (IF SOMEONE HAS ONE FOR SALE I MAY BE INTERESTED)

Any recommendations on other engine parts i should get. If I get a new turbo i'm thinking i will just pay the money and get a garret t3/t4 turbo i seen some for like 800 on ebay.

 

Click: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ght=ebay+turbo



And when you say "engine rebuild", you mean you are doing the bearings and rings too right?

 

ITM pistons/rings/pins for less than $200
ITM gasket set
ITM water pump
Melling M111 oil pump
ARP head and rod bolts
Clevite bearings - rod and crank
all of which you can get from northernautoparts.com for a very good price

Timing chain from MSA is made in Japan and it's a complete set including tensioners and gears

Port match and hog out your intake manifold runners. Your runners are 53% the area of your intake valves. That's one of your major constrictions.

Port match your stock exhaust manifold

3" downpipe and exhaust

Upgrade the ECU - MSIII is the best bang for your buck....

Intercooler setup

Skip the T3/T4 and get a GT35R or GTX30R, 35R

 

I looked at there site and its kinda hard to look up parts. plus i dont know the bore size for the pistons. The size stuff i dont know.

 

Specs are in the FSM / Haynes manual, or you can look up everything here:

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

86mm stock bore

 

How would you pull the engine if one of the lift mounts is gone? My stud broke and its the one holding the lift mount (driver side mount by windshield).

What way would you pull the engine out?

 

I never use that one (alone) anyway... too weak of a pull spot. Wrap the chain around the EGR port.

 

When I pulled my friends motor (that shall breathe my Z soon) I attached one to one of the intake bolts, but as you can see, you could also attach it to one of the turbo bolts, the other one I have attached to one of the power steering bolts

 

Time to jack the thread, as for pistons, I'm looking at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

They are standard bore. Can someone calmly explain to me the difference between underbore and overbore? And why you would come about having/need under/overbore?



This does in fact fit the 280zx Turbo? They may not have the 280zx listed under applicable cars.

 

Overbore= cylinder (hole) is enlarged... meaning you cut out metal and make the diameter bigger.

The only way to "underbore" a cylinder is to sleeve w/ an overly thick sleeve, then re-bore it, but have the new bore still smaller than stock.

 

So I need standard bore, since I haven't technically done anything to the cylinders themselves, no oversizes

 

As long as you can hone the cylinder walls and still be within spec for the rings.

 

Would overhoning them be cause for them to be overbored? I don't have my FSM, and I'm pretty sure I don't have any tools to check bore

 

A caliper is all you need to check the bore size. As long as it's all stock & the walls aren't all scraped up, you should be fine. Honing won't take off enough to make a size difference as long as you do it right. I did a hone job w/ my Geo G10 motor... Just spray down the walls w/ WD40 and plunge it a few times at fill speed w/ the drill. Reverse the drill and do it again... then you'll get the cross hatch back.

EDIT... I also used the controversial method of WD40'ing the rings instead of motor oil. They seated fine and I've got over 1k miles on the motor already... up to 55mpg now.

 

Alright, I should be good, I need a caliper anyway so I'll pick one up at THD tomorrow, I'm looking at selling my Rx7, and I may be picking up my friends Festiva, 4cyl. 1.3l =D, I need me a decent car for back and forthage till I get the Z running again

 

that race would be epic nismo in his 3 banger VS. WGDZ in his fiestia!!!

 

He has a fresh rebuild, he'd cross the finishline twice before I made it to third

Insert "Peel Off"

 

Melling 111 is often listed as a KA24 oil pump for the trucks but it's a common bolt on upgrade for the L series engines - thanks Nissan for making more interchangable parts!

Get your pistons/rings/wrist pins from Northern Autoparts - $188 last time I checked.... plus they are hypereutectic and very precise between each piston so no real need to balance the piston/ring/pins themselves....