Clutch
#1
Clutch
Hay all, just bought a 78 Z and have an issue with my clutch. The slave is full of fluid but the pedal is dead. Straight to the floor, no resistance and will not rebound or engage. Can anyone help with some pointers. I am new to the Z world. Thanks.
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada,.The Beautiful Okanagan Valley!.,.Canada's "Cali"
Posts: 99
Whoah !
Ya... make sure you bleed the complete system well......as I understand it,..the "proportioning valve" will hold air, and is a bugger to bleed.
air in valve=no brakes... no good!
Good luck;
I just bought new flex-lines and wheel cylinders for the rear.. so I'm next.lol
(three brakes fer 4 yrs!!)
Todd/BC240Z
air in valve=no brakes... no good!
Good luck;
I just bought new flex-lines and wheel cylinders for the rear.. so I'm next.lol
(three brakes fer 4 yrs!!)
Todd/BC240Z
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada,.The Beautiful Okanagan Valley!.,.Canada's "Cali"
Posts: 99
oops.... clutch......not brakes. hahahaha
well..same thing really..there is a small hydraulic "block" near the passenger side of the firewall. not sure of its intention in life, but it will fill with air..and the clutch will not engage.
One other thing. we just installed a clutch in my S30, and we forgot (DOH) to make sure the fork was locked into the "pivot ball" inside the bell-housing..again.no clutch action.
Todd/BC240Z
well..same thing really..there is a small hydraulic "block" near the passenger side of the firewall. not sure of its intention in life, but it will fill with air..and the clutch will not engage.
One other thing. we just installed a clutch in my S30, and we forgot (DOH) to make sure the fork was locked into the "pivot ball" inside the bell-housing..again.no clutch action.
Todd/BC240Z
#6
Originally Posted by BC240Z
One other thing. we just installed a clutch in my S30, and we forgot (DOH) to make sure the fork was locked into the "pivot ball" inside the bell-housing..again.no clutch action.
Todd/BC240Z
#7
Ok so I am out at the car right now and the clutch pedal sucks in fluid and pushes it back out when I move it. I can see this with the resevoir cap off. I am not losing any fluid. will jack it up right now to se if I cant see something else wrong.
#9
You can bleed it in two places, so be sure to do both.
One is up on the drivers side by the master brake cylinder, the other is underneath the car at the clutch linkage (slave cylinder). Make sure you do both. If you need help on how to do it, just ask. These guys and gals are really helpful and won't rag you.
One is up on the drivers side by the master brake cylinder, the other is underneath the car at the clutch linkage (slave cylinder). Make sure you do both. If you need help on how to do it, just ask. These guys and gals are really helpful and won't rag you.
#10
My problem is the "One man bleed" procedure. That, and the fact that there is a 76 benz 450SL in the garage. I am going to buy rebuild kits for both. From what I read in my manual, its pretty simple. And cheap.........aside fro this problem and the small holes in the floor, the car is running and driving. I can't wait to drive my VW Corrado SLC replacement. Hopefully it will perform as well or better.
Any other common issues I should be looking for?
Any other common issues I should be looking for?
#11
Try gravity bleeding the slave cylinder. Then do the clutch master. But I bet if you just do the slave. It will help out. All you do is turn out the bleeder screw where it barely drips. And let it come out, until it almost is coming out in a thin stream. Then carefully close it. If that don't work try it again. And whatever you do. Don't depress the clutch pedal, while doing this. Or you will have to start it over. I hope I explained it correctly. If not, somebody please chime in. I have problems sometimes, explaining certain things.
#12
Originally Posted by Petes 78 ZX
My problem is the "One man bleed" procedure.
If there is a lot of air in the lines, open bleeder & pump until a steady liquid stream comes out.
#14
A 79???? My title says 78, the plate on the drivers door says 8/78 and the Vin matches all the tags.......what's going on here...........
Will I regain the Return action in the pedal once it is bled? Right now I have to pull the pedal back. All springs and hardware are intact and not worn in the foot well/pedal cluster.
Will I regain the Return action in the pedal once it is bled? Right now I have to pull the pedal back. All springs and hardware are intact and not worn in the foot well/pedal cluster.
#15
Originally Posted by Petes 78 ZX
A 79???? My title says 78, the plate on the drivers door says 8/78 and the Vin matches all the tags.......what's going on here...........
#16
Right, so bleeding did nothing. So, for 50 bucks I went to the store and bought a new master and new slave cylinder. Problem solved. Both were toast from sitting for so long. My POS actually moves!
#18
can someone tell me in detail how to bleed the clutch lines on a ZX? i'm helping a friend get one running and i got the motor running but the clutch is having the symptoms that was described in the first post and i want to try bleeding before i go any further
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
#19
Originally Posted by highvolkage
can someone tell me in detail how to bleed the clutch lines on a ZX? i'm helping a friend get one running and i got the motor running but the clutch is having the symptoms that was described in the first post and i want to try bleeding before i go any further
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
Originally Posted by NismoPick
The most effective way is with 2 people. Grab a neighbor, relative, or somebody walking down the street. Pump 3 times, hold, open bleeder valve, close, let up on pedal, start over.
If there is a lot of air in the lines, open bleeder & pump until a steady liquid stream comes out.
If there is a lot of air in the lines, open bleeder & pump until a steady liquid stream comes out.
#22
Originally Posted by highvolkage
haha my bad but wheres the bleeder valve? on most cars i've worked on its between the slave and the clutch, same on these?
#24
The bleeder screw is located on the Slave which is attached to the tranny. It is a little nipple just above the fluid line leading to the slave.
With the cap off the resevoir, open the bleed screw. Depress the pedal to the floor and then close the screw. Pull the pedal back up. Open the screw, press the pedal to the floor. Close the screw. Pull the pedal back up.
Repeat this process until the pedal retracks by itself.
Important......when pushing the pedal to the floor, watch to make sure the Slave piston is moving. If it doesn't, your Master is toast. The Master is located on the firewall next to the brake booster.
I had no piston action but my Slave was also siezed. The Slave cost $16.99 and the Master cost $29.88. I was able to purchase both at Advance Auto.
The process is really easy but will require 2 people.
Hope that helps!
With the cap off the resevoir, open the bleed screw. Depress the pedal to the floor and then close the screw. Pull the pedal back up. Open the screw, press the pedal to the floor. Close the screw. Pull the pedal back up.
Repeat this process until the pedal retracks by itself.
Important......when pushing the pedal to the floor, watch to make sure the Slave piston is moving. If it doesn't, your Master is toast. The Master is located on the firewall next to the brake booster.
I had no piston action but my Slave was also siezed. The Slave cost $16.99 and the Master cost $29.88. I was able to purchase both at Advance Auto.
The process is really easy but will require 2 people.
Hope that helps!
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