The subs are single voice coils, now is there any brands that are great to be looking out for or if its a cheep brand should I get it slightly larger than what it says? Im prittymuch going to buy it off ebay and it has to be cheep.

I do realize youre probibly punching yourself in the face of my stupidity.

But over all I want my system to total to around $200 so if you find something nice and cheep please let me know!

Remember im only 16!

 

I used to run the stereo in my ZX with a pair of Linear Power 5002's and a pair of 2002's.

I know exactly what you're talking about.

 

No punching here my friend, however....$200...it's going to be tough but you can always look for deals in the mean time on mids and highs unless you are happy with what you have. Your subs look to be in good shape and I am sure you can get some bump out of them. If $200 is what you have to spend right now..put it in the amp brother and you are good for bottom end power.

Ok here we go:

Rockford Fosgate (punch, lightning audio "black and silver" amps and some "blue and silver"...never red and silver or yellow and silver on the lightning audio amps)
Kenwood, MTX, some Hifonics amps, some Power Acoustik amps like the Saphire amps, Audiobahn, Kicker are all good brands to use.

Stuff like Lanzar, Boss, Pyle, Legacy are to be avoided like poison oak!!!

Check these links:

http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD-KAC-9102...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HIFONICS-MER...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/P3001-ROCKFORD-F...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/HIFONICS-TITAN-T...QQcmdZViewItem

My first choice in your price range would be the Hifonics Titan TXi5006 mono amp hands down and you will have money left over for the amp wiring kit...do this and you will be pleased. You will be running both subs together at 2ohms and if you need help on how to wire them to the amp as such drop me a PM.

 

These things are older than my 8 year old daughter...but they still pound!! They fit nice in the back too. I wish they still made these subs...I think I would stock pile them, even now that they are old and beat up they still sound snappy and deep.

TEST FIT

THE LITTLE POWERHOUSE!!

LIKE IT WAS MEANT TO BE

PERFECT HOLE FOR THE 4awg POWER WIRE

A WORK IN PROGRESS

 

ummm dont ya kinda wanna put a grommet around the 4awg wire going thru that sharp edged hole? not just for water proofing, but to stop it from shorting out in 6 months. my bro did that and fried the amp, it just touched onch in a while. just enough to not blow the fuse, and give the amp a dead short eventually killing it.

 

He's hardcore. He probably doesn't even use a fuse!

 

Shady...I am hardcore!!! I don't even use a fuse!!!! Actually, this whole installation was/is a mock-up and is still in progress. Now that I know everything fits I will be re-doing a few things piece by piece. I am not worried about the possibility of it leaking right there or cutting that wire, the jacket on it is very VERY thick and that wire doesn't move around as it is a tight fit. Once I get all new stuff...Head unit, Door speakers, and Subs I will be re wireing a few things to support two amps.

 

I knew it! no fuse....

I've tried a few setups in different cars. The one I like the most is a single 12" in a sealed box.
Its small and has a nice deep, full, tight sound. I've had two 12's before also but I hate how it takes up the whole hatch.
anyway, good stuff there THX.

 

Thanks man, I would like to run a single twelve but those JLW7's are pricey. One thing for sure is the shape and size of this car makes up for the small amp I have running these 10's. In the Camaro I had more room but ran a much larger amp on these subs, but in this car I am getting near the same volume with a 1/4 of the power and it is still deep and snappy.

 

hey thxone, have you ever built fiberglass boxes? im gonna try, but hom many layer support for a 10"? i was gonna use cardboard for the basics, the mdf for where the sub mounts, then fg it all nice and tight.

 

I have built a few, and it can be a pain in the butt. There are different ways to build them depending on what box you want, do you want one that fits a specific area of your car? Then it is a little like this:

1: Get all of your supply's.

2: This is a good step by step the way I would do it and check out his cardomain page link at the bottom of the page:

http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?p=799862

3: You don't have to use a flat board like he did, you can use dowel rods to support a mounting ring with hot glue and angle the sub wherever you like then cover in material, fiberglass it and continue on. I have never used less than 5 layers on any box and they don't flex.

 

Ok. Last night. I was playing around. I was Very Surprised at the amount of power the factory radio has. I hooked up two 6's(regular with sub, Mid, and tweeter. and two 6X9's. I can feel the music go though me. I was shocked at what it can produce at 3/4 bass. Any more and it looses clarity.

 

Back in '82, I was rockin out to my factory DIGITAL cassette player in my 280ZX.... oh ya, I said cassette. Not some old 8-track. Those were the days. I could feel the music go through me at no more than 3/4 bass

 

I am glad that the factory radio I gave you works so well! After you complained that it didn't work right! lol lil buddy.

I gotta watch you round the parts car now....! Just kidding...

 

the display don't show up. i had to search for my stations. Anyone know this fix?

 

replace it with one that works...

 

this thread is boring.... why is it still around....

 

They are amazing for being that old aren't they? I am running a 12 disc changer, 2 10", 2 3 1/2" mid-range, and 2 tweeters, and 2 5" speakers. I eventually want to get an amp, and 2 8" subwoofers. Down the road yet.

 

One 12" sub is better than two 8's. In fact, its better than two 10's. You get a much broader range.

 

yeh. but Allot has to do with Placement. Where you place them subs Makes a Huge difference. Like. i got allot of treble when the 6x9's are facing towards me. But if i face them towards the tail light's(there at a angle, so, part tail light, part hatch) i get more bass. Take your time and test stuff with where it's placed.

 

im only mounting one 10" sub, dont need to pound very hard. i want to put it where the dip is kinda by the power antenna cubby. cover it with fabric and then it looks like a interior panel. theives cant see it then. so what kind of glass is used. is it kitty hair mat, or fabric mat.

 

Don't be dissin on my thread!!!! I put it here cause there wasn't a car audio thread...now there is. Hey Snow, how would I get that T5? I mean how would it be shipped? Also...can you estimate the shipping cost?

I would not say that a single 12 is better than two 10's....the only thing better than two 10's is three 10's, two 12's, or four 8's. Hey shady, what 10 are you going to be running? Let me help here a little bit...make sure it is a dual voice coil subwoofer, this will allow you the option of different ways to wire the sub to the amp to suit your power needs or the capabilities of the amp. ALSO!!! When you wire the amps power and ground wires MAKE SURE THEY ARE THE SAME SIZE WIRE!!!! I.E. 4awg power wire-4awg ground wire. Trust me, it's for the best. Don't run your RCA's down the same said of the car as your power wire, this will cut down on radio noise.

 

the wiring part i got covered (kinda do that stuff professionally) (you prolly didnt know) the sub is a mtx 10" 250 watts thunder 6000. the amp is a us acustics? 600d err something with remote adjust. nice amp actually, sounds good, 400 of real measured power. im mostly concerned with the box, i cant do wood, im actually worried aboot the mdf ring i gotta cut for the sub to screw to! the fiberglass part i can do, just needed to know the base and thickness.

 

Ok Shady, I did some research and contacted MTX. The internal volume of the enclosure needs to be .75cu ft or 21.23 liters and with the sub installed it will be .69cu ft or 19.5 liters. Use 3/4" (19mm) MDF for the "mounting board" and it needs to be a 12" square or 305mm squared. The cutout hole needs to be 9 1/16th" or 230.2mm. You will have 5 1/16th" or 128.6mm mounting depth needed for that exact sub. You do not want the sub box to flex, the mounting board itself should not flex at that size so make that fiberglass thick, you should be able to stand on the box when it is finished without it collapsing. Find a local Car stereo shop if you can and try to get a piece of dynamat or some other brand of sound deadening material about 12" 305mm squared to be cut up into 3 or 4 strips and adhered to the inside of the box...again, trust me, it will sound better though it may not be needed...it does help for sound quality. There, that should help you out. Also, if you ever get rid of that US Acoustic amp I will kick you in the sac........unless you are sending it my way

 

thanks thxone. dang that 2 boxes youve helped me with, now i just gotta build them.. i know the amp is good, got it on a boxing day sale for 120 bucks cdn!!! so what kinda of fg mat? i know 5 layers, but what order, ive done lots of composites, so get technical if needed. i can also get carbon too, so super strong! and light weight. so wheres the strips of dynamat go? why not line the box? and thanks for the metric! lol