LOL yeah I got you, I need some boom...soon my friend, soon. You know I am just waiting on an amp so I can hook my Fosgates back up.

 

Wag your finger at me you fako tough guy. As soon as you come on back to GA i'll not only hook you up with a proper stereo install but i'll also school your white hiney on how to drive that "gold" 280 of yours . And you will bow down

 

Ok, well I could use some company when I get back up there...I will need someone with a fly swatter to keep all your yellow flys and other swamp bugs off of me when I show you how to fix your stereo the right way! And once I get the 5 speed in the car I will make sure to give you a proper whompin and show you proper skills of straight line racing...after all my car is more aerodynamic...PIMP THAT!! oh yeah, do you still have those audio connectors?

 

Well I have some soap and deodarant you can borrow to keep the flies away, then I can use the fly swatter to keep you in line if you get lippy while I tell you the propper way to set up your stereo . And yes I still have the connectors and yes you may still use a few of them . And im not sure how fast you think youre gonna go with you being so husky and all .

 

Wow now that was a bunch of info that I did need to find out. I am hunting for everything I need for my installation. Also will have to find the right person to do it. Im not much of a sterio guru. All I want is to say here install this. Im now thinking that I want to get a new unit that plays mp3 format. Not sure if the one I have does or does not. Its an older unit like 2000 yr. Pioneer. Took it from my GMC S15 before I sold it, including my box, Menphis mono amp, 2 10" Kenwood sub. Will be buying new speakers to fit the rest of the car. Need a wire harness. I hate messing with wires. As soon as I start my sound setup I will take pics and share.

 

did we have mp3's back in '00?

If you've got a part/serial number that would be all you need to find out if its mp3 compatible.

 

I started building a computer to play MP3's in my car back in 1999. I never did finish it. It was kinda cool and I used it a few times for test runs to play music in my Z but never did a permanant install. Now I have a deck that plays SD cards and CDs with MP3 on them. No use for a big bulky PC in the back.

 

I will try to help a bit here if I can. I have never seen a Pioneer head unit that played MP3's that didn't say mp3 on the face plate or mp in the model number...now over time, sure it could wear off if it is a "welll used" player. Be prepared to spend a hefty amount of money to have a pro put your stereo in. Typically it can run near $60 or more just to instal a head unit and thats IF a wire harness is available for the vehicle...there are none that I am aware of for a 280Z or ZX. You also said you want to replace the other speakers in the car...the dash has to be removed for reasonable access the the left/center dash speaker (4 inch) the right can be accessed through the removal of the glove box also (4 inch). You will want to get an amplifier wire kit WITH rca cables in the package...at least one pair for the sub amp, depending on the rated rms power of the amp. If it's around 300 watts you may be ok with an 8 awg kit, anything above that and go to a 4 awg kit.

The best thing to do would be to run brand new wires for every part of the new stereo as the factory wires in the Z's stereo are old, and old school and share a common ground for the speakers...not good for an aftermarket radio. If you take it to a good pro shop they should do this for the radio, it will sound better, last longer and should not catch fire. Be prepared to pay several hundred dollars for the instal. If you wish to do it your self PM me and I can walk you through it or do a write up and E mail it to you so you can print it out...I would need model numbers of what you plan to purchase and what you have to better help you, either way be patiant and good luck.

 

yeah I remember reading your little write up you did on your site about that thing. I couldn't figure out why you were going to so much trouble til I realized when it was all taking place

 

Here are some pics...for ideas only but it should make sense. the sub will face the wall and the air preasure will escape through the "slot" not a port into the cab. You could put this "cutout" on the bottom like these pics, the side or the top...whatever will fit the bill. But the sub will be hidden on the backside. Boundary loading is when the sub uses another surface to slow the motion of the sub like a spring and helps produce decent to powerfull bass...works well in covertables and soft top Jeeps but still works in hard tops. Effectively it makes the box a band pass box...sort of.

 

I was going to say that looks like a band pass box.
I hate the requency range of bandpass and its worse than a ported. I go sealed all the way.

SEALED BOX!

 

I also heard that you were making fun of me too! I have dates all over that page on when it was being made...

 

thats what I mean... I didnt notice the time frame when I read up on it. I was just thinking to myself "WTF is this guy doing? Why not just buy an MP3 player?" Then I realized just how long ago that was Making fun is harsh...more like wondering about your sanity if anything But it all makes sense now.... kind of

 

I agree on the sealed box to a point....however those two boxes are sealed...they are just cutaways so you can see how the sub is mounted in each box, I should have said "effectivley makeing them bandpass boxes..from sealed boxes...sort of"

I like sealed boxes for their simplicity...yes they sound great and work well but they also tend to need more power to push a given sub(s) and usually will not drop as low as a ported or bandpass box with the same sub(s). If I had the money to build a higher end system it would have either a ported or bandpass enclosure because 7 out of 10 times they will produce the lower bass notes and produce them with a quicker transiant response and greater volume from less power. However I do belive the sealed "sounds" better but I think ported and bandpass are more effecient. It all boils down to personal taste in the end...now with the band pass yes you would need more money...to buy more mid-bass and mid speakers to fill in the gap of sound from the bandpass box but overall this system will sound the best if done correctly...I think, something Like this: 2 10's in a BP Box, two 8's for mid bass, 2 6 1/2's for mids, 2 4's for upper mids, and 2-4 1 inch soft dome tweeters for treble...this will be an even sounding stereo when fine tuned...I could go on for days but 98% of audible sound could be covered here. But being I will never win the lotto I will be doing a sealed box with 10"s and go with one pair of 6 1/2 inch components to cover the rest...it will still sound good but it won't sound the best. Ported and bandpass boxes MUST BE setup and designed correctly to sound proper...most ready made ported and bandpass boxes are not specifically designed for the speakers they house.

 

I had the local GoHo do mine for me. I can give more details if you like. Essentially, its a Kenwood Excelon touch screen tuner/dvd player/controller system in the dash along side a jack for my portable MP3 player/laptop, a dc socket and an ac socket. Speaker boxes were built for the door panels and a box was built to go across the car behind the seats on the rear platform. This larger box contains the 6x9's and the cd changer. Then there's an Eclipse amp behind the passenger seat where the rear speaker used to be. I love my system! Sorry I dont' have better pictures of the system. Of course with the install came the alarm system and the remote starter kit.

 

That sounds interesting....when you get the chance I wouldn't mind some more pics...when you can get some.

 

I'll see if we can take more interior pics this weekend. In this one you can barely see the box that contains the rear speakers and the cd changer in the back up behind the seats.


________
Ferrari 333 SP

 

Allright, yes I posted this in another thread. But it should be here also. This is my recent stereo faceplate repaint, and painting my console silver. I decided to repaint the ashtray dupli-color blue. Because of the contrast. I am quite happy with it. Feel free as always to leave your comments.

 

Hey, as some of you know I recenly installed two 10's in my car

Thread is here

and now I belive I need an amplifier, but would like a crash course on how they work, how they're installed, and how big of a watt ampifier do i need?

BTW each sub is 500watts each connected to a 200watt sterio.





AAAANNNND Wildman, your face plate is SICK!

 

You're running two 500w 10" subs off a 200 total watt stereo?

I assume it's a 4 channel x 50 watt radio? Does it have pre-amp outputs?

How are the subs hooked up to the radio right now?

What brand and model radio?

What brand and model subs?

 

I belive it does have pre amp out-puts

and the subs are connected to the two rear speakers

Jensen radio model unknown

Visonick subs model unkown(really cheap)

 

Hey thanks man, amazing what a little metallic paint will do for you. I just figured it needed a little more color to it. And I am quite happy with it.

As for your setup, it is looking sick also man. That was a cool idea to eliminate the rear seats, and use that room for more useful things. Way to go man, and keep us updated on your interior resto. It really makes a car look more newer.

 

Chances are that even a Jensen radio is going to have at least one set (usually rear or sub) of RCA or "Pre-Outs". Let me just say this, your head unit will not last long at all if you run subs off the rear speaker outputs, it would be best to disconnect the subs for now and save the radio. If the head unit says 50x4 you can bet that is PEAK power at near max volume with an rms output between 16 and 22 watts per channel at 1/4 -1/2 volume...not good to push a non crossed-over set of subs.

Start from the begining. Pull the head unit out and make sure it has rca outs on it, if it has more than one set use the set labled rear or sub if it has a sub out use it. Secure an amp wiring kit if you can, one from a local wal-mart will do as long as it has the RCA's, Power wire, ground wire, Remote wire and under hood fuse. $20-$30 bucks I belive for the Scosche kit and it should have a decent diagram in it.

Now you really want an amp for those subs my friend. But this can be tricky. First, are the subs single or dual voice coil??? Dual voice coil subs will give you a wider range of amp wireing options but a single voice coil can be more simple to hook up. You do not have to buy a brand new amp but I would suggest a good amp, one that is at least 2 ohm stable in stereo and in bridged mode!!! My first stop period when I decide to buy an amp is local pawn shops, you can save money and you may also find a top quality amp or even a rare or vintage amp in good shape for a good price. Buyer beware though, go in smart and always have them test the amp so you can hear and see it working!!! Have them test any and all channels!!! Look for it to have all the connecting screws on the terminals. Make sure the fuses in the amp are in good shape and have no burn marks on or around them. 90% of the time on the bottom of amps there is a "Warranty Void if Removed" sticker...if it has one make sure it is intact and that none of the screws have been tampered with that hold the bottom plate on, if either has been messed with move on to the next amp.

If those subs are single voice coil I would secure a true 300 watt, 2 channel amp and bridge it mono at 2 ohms...150 watts per sub. If they are dual voice coil subs then I would get a true 500 watt 2 channel amp and run it stereo at 2 ohms...should yield 250 watts per sub with all coils hooked up. Below are a couple of reasons I would go with a reputable name brand amp. The Legacy says it is a 250watt x 4 (1000watts total) and the MB Quart says it is a 200watts x 2...who do you think is closer to the truth? My point is just because the amp says it has alot of power doesn't mean it does, do your research and hit those pawn shops. Used doesn't mean worthless.

Legacy
Attachment 5078

MB Quart
Attachment 5079

 

The man knows of what he speaks. I've seen high quality 100w amps blow the hell out of cheap *** 500-1000w amps.

 

Yes, case in point, I have an MTX 275X...that's 150 watts total. It is an old school amp but man does it pound to no end. Before I got it I was running my buddys Power Acoustik Saphire amp rated at over "900" watts on my "old school" punch 10's and it rocked hard. When I moved down here to Fl I visited a pawn shop and found this old MTX for $60 and it pounds just as hard as the Power Acoustik but sounds cleaner.

This is a small amp at 6"x9"x2" but this sucker weighs 8lbs!!

Attachment 5081