after cutting and re-running all the wires for my deck, i found wally world sells the adapter plug kit for these cars, im kicking myself now, coulda done it easier. i re-did all the speaker wires, and just used the factory wires for 12v and switched.

 

Feel free to post what those two wires are my friend and for clarification, that was on your '79?

 

Well, ok..I have looked and researched and would pull out my hair if I had any left. Here is my situation I have an 83 280ZXT and really hate the factory radio and cassette deck (yikes!) so I purchased a single DIN dvd unit that plays everything (cd,dvd,mp3, etc.,etc.,etc.) has radio tuner and tv tuner and a motorized 7" LCD screen. When I got my car Bitchin' Betty was not working so I replaced her and she talks just fine now (but only get a chime for door open..???) Anyway I want to keep her and replace factory stereo with my new aftermarket. I suppose I will replace the factory speakers too. My question is this: Is it possiable to retain Betty with new set-up? Also I would like to retain factory stereo/wide ****-function for new stereo. Sooooo...What I am really looking for is wire identification for this **** and for Betty. I read somewhere that Betty operates via a relay which cuts out stereo to front left speaker and that newer stereos will overpower her and burn her out but I assume this can be solved with diodes. I have chased links and done searches. I have atempted to read wiring diagram in the hanes manuel but I just cant read that small even with a magnifying glass. Can anyone identify stereo wires and Betty's wires? If I can get that I can fabricate a custom harness to plug into factory harness and make my install as clean as possiable (P.S. location of the power antenna relay wouldnt hurt eather!) Thanks for any help you can give! By the way if I can get this all sorted out I plan to take photos and create a step by step guide to help anyone else who wants to do what I plan on doing.

 

The "Door is open" signal only happens when the car is rolling. That's about the only help I can give.

 

there are a few threads on betty. you can always just wire up a cheapo speaker to the dash just for betty.

and welcome to the site. good to see another washington zdriver.

 

Thanks, did not know car needs to roll for that message! I suppose I can use a dedicated speaker for Betty, but I like the idea of muteing stereo when she talks..and thanks for the welcome! This is my second Z (I wreaked the first one in California..sigh) and I plan on making her better than the first (which always drew a crowd whenever I parked).

 

I have an aftermarket CD head unit and my bitchy **** still yells at me (it's ok for me to call her that cause she let's me punish her). I spliced into the factory wires for the front speakers and ran brand new wires to the now aftermarket Rockford Fosgate Power 2 way 6 1/2" rear speakers. I recommend doing this cause you will burn up your aftermarket head unit if you use ALL the factory speaker wires, they share common grounds...not good for todays stuff. Wiring the fronts up to the factory wires is ok cause you can use the two grounds (left and right ground) the rears also were on the same two grounds so I ran new wires and now no over heating problems or shutting down due to heat. I have had no issues in my 1982 ZXT. Forget about the Wide ****...only works with factory head unit. Front dash speakers in your car are 4" and the rears, if your car is a coupe' are 6 1/2" and are 5 1/4" if it's a 2+2. I fit ford premium 3 1/2" in my gold '82's dash and they sounded great.

P.S. so far my Ho has told me....((((BING!!)))) "lights are on" ((((BING!!)))) "Right door is open" ((((BING!!)))) "HARDER..HARDER!!"

 

i remember hearing my hoe for teh first time in my 82 2+2.... know what i did to her, stripped her *** cut her open and left her for dead in my back yard, im gonna go back and finish stripping her and cutting her into pieces one of these days, she sounded kinda sexy i guess though, but my door was rusty so even when shut the sensor would read open (it rested on a rust hole) ao she would bitch left and right about nothing at all

 

I would just leave the factory center speaker attached to the talking lady and put a new speaker in the kick panel or maybe under the driver side dash.

The center speaker is poorly located for decent sound and is a pain to get too.

 

Ok, thanks for the information! guess I will have to replace the wide **** with something else....<shrug>..anyone know of a <ledgiable> post that identifies the factory radio harness wires? (I suppose I could get the multi-meter and wring them out...but I would rather not take a chance with my new deck.) The previous owner has cut holes in the door panels and mounted speakers, which are not currently hooked up and should be replaced anyway...I wonder if that is what happened to my original Betty? At this point it seems I may get an amp and run it to the door speakers and the new 6.5" rears I will need to buy. Perhaps I could leave the center speaker for Betty and replace the right front speaker and include a new left speaker under driver side dash...hummmm..now seems a 6 channel amp may be in order...

 

legible hmmm...Honestly I am not sure there is for the radio wires. I took my factory rear speakers out and looked at the wires for both speakers and then checked out the right front speaker wires through the glove box...but check this out, I got this info from the factory service manual:

Right Front Speaker: (+ positive blue w/red stripe - ground Yellow w/black stripe)
Left Front Speaker: (+ positive Yellow w/red stripe - ground Yellow w/black stripe)
Right Rear Speaker: (+ positive White - ground Yellow w/black stripe)
Left Rear Speaker: (+ positive Light Green w/ white stripe - ground Yellow w/black stripe)

This is why I ran my own wires to the rear speakers, I also ran my own FUSED constant power from the battery to the radio. It is my opinion that all new wires should be ran for the whole new radio...it's safer and you can use better wire.

 

In my opinion, this is a requirement for any new stereo install regardless of whether you're going to add an amp or not.

The wiring in these cars was barely adequate back in the 80's and is horribly under spec. for today's standards.

 

Good posts!, much help and great advise! It appears that my deck is using 18 gauge wire for both power in and ground with a 15 amp in line fuse (speaker out, from deck amp appears to be 20 gauge!), so going to heaver wire for this probably wont be of much benefit, however I plan on NOT using the decks amp and only using the RCA low-output to a new amp. With this set-up I will run new heavy gauge wire to the amp (and then new speakers, only retaining the center (left front) dedicated to Betty).

 

Sounds like a very good plan...should give you years of trouble free music enjoyment.

 

the + wires can be tested via a light tester, i think one is green the other yellow err something, its been some time.

 

I think the wires on the '79 are slightly different then on the '82-'83's

 

...and then theres the fact that we use COLORED wire where as shady is using COLOURED wire i kid, i kid...

 

Canadians...mehh. lol

 

i thought coloured was yankee spelling? and color was canuck, i never care aboot that one!! i even catch myself saying zee once in a while. zed x just sounds better tho!

 

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/p...=US&Region=USA
I'm not sure if there will be enough room for the outboard crossovers under the dash. And maybe this is just overkill considering the poor mounting position?

 

First..it's never "overkill" Second, the crossovers don't have to go under the dash, but they can...there is room, you may just have to get creative...like mounting them to the top of the glove box, the part that swings down when you remove the glove box interior itself. (The top inside part) I think Infinities have great mids and highs, just don't plan on getting very much bass/mid-bass out of them or pretty much any Infinity speaker with the exception of their subs.

The location is poor yes, but with rear speakers it's livable. I say go for it, just put some power to them and they will rock, I have used the Kappa 3 1/2's and the 4" speakers and was pleased with both. Now by design they will have less bass then factory speakers so a sub is almost always a must with aftermarket mids and highs, if not subs then some good quality 6 1/2" or 8" mid bass speakers should help fill in the sound. Come to think of it though...I don't remember ever using an outboard crossover with any of my coaxial Infinities.....hmmmmm

 

Done and done. I was just browsing Crutchfield to see what they say will fit the rear speaker panels of my 2+2 and they're telling me I can go as large as 6 1/2". I guess I'd just get rid of the black plastic inserts that currently hold my factory 5 1/4's at an angle and mount the new 6 1/2's flush to the metal? If that's true, I guess it'll do until I can afford to replace my rear seat with a giant custom speaker box and push 12's.

 

Well, I don't remember what the opening looks like behind the 5 1/4's in the 2+2's but I think the area is shallow so if you are able to fit 6 1/2's in there make sure you have room behind the magnet. Get some kind of gasket to mount the speakers on though, try not to just screw them to the metal, the speakers and the mounting surface may not be perfectly flat and the gasket will help seal them properly and get better bass response.

 

Yeah, sealing that area is going to be real pain. There's a gap directly below where the speakers will be mounted and the cavern behind them goes all the way up toward the top of the seatbelts. I was considering baffles, but only found negative feedback on them. So, I guess I'll just put gaskets around the lip and try to patch the gap with some foam and Mexican chrome.

 

Since you mentioned it, Crutchfield has those foam baffles.....go for it, if you don't like them you don't have to use them but they will seal the speaker....you can always cut out the backs