Ok after a junkyard run i finally have the fan blowers running again for the first time in a decade, now im on to the AC.

I have an AC pump installed, came with the car, though it hAS no belt tunning to it. However my real problem is the upper line isnt plugged into anything, and for the life of me im not sure where it goes. The lower line is connected properly, but the upper is just hanging there going nowhere, to nothing that i can se. If there is supposed to be something there i may be missing it completly. Advice? Hell, even better would be a picture.

Thanks guys.

 

Are you talking about the line connecting to the pump? Both connect close to each other...

Here's a pic I found when I did a quick Google search ( which you can do too )

 

Wait, so it plugs into the same area the lower hose connects to? The picture shows a bracket but im not sure what it is...otherwise is there a spot for it on the rad or something?

 

One connects in the middle, the other on the back side (side opposite of the pulley). The bracket shown in the pic is what holds the compressor onto the block. Do you have a Haynes manual? It shows the a/c system in great detail in the manual.

 

i have the superbly crappy chiltons and doesnt even show a picture of the AC system at all =/

Both lines btw are conected to the compressor, its the other end of the upper line im trying to figure out.

EDIT: Also ran a google images search (and i checked you profile pics also Nismo) and i cant find what im looking for, theres always stuff in the way of the upper hose or the pictures are all from the wrong angle.

 

Upper line, ok I'm trying to remember from when I was working on my AC system. Are you looking at the passengers side, the drivers side or the lines in front of the radiator? Your lines should come out of the high side (rear compressor line) go in front of the radiator to the condensor, from the condensor to the receiver drier (passengers side cylinder looking thing) to the evaporator (you won't see the evaporator) and back to the low side (middle compressor line). Hope that helps. Try getting the manual off http://www.carfiche.com

 

you are correct, i just found the other side. Its the side that runs across the front of the radiator to the passenger side condensor looking thing...


Now, someone have one for sale?

 

Ok, passenger side would be the receiver dryer. No matter what anyone says, your best bet here is to buy a new one. They run about $75-80.

 

It appears your system has been open for a while, so replacing the dryer is a must. You don't say what type of a charge you will put in the system? I would recommend flushing the system & if R-12 & everything is ok then vacume the system down & recharge it (if the vacume holds). If R-134 then that's a different story. For R-134 you will need to change out all the "O" rings, dryer & the compressor. There is a charge called Freeze 12 which will work in a R-12 system, but you need to flush out the system, change dryer & "O" rings, but you can use the old compressor (if it's still good). You don't need any licence to buy Freeze 12 at a car parts store. Good Luck

 

Thank you for that as yet unasked for information. Thats was going to be what i needed to know next. Im going to try and stay with R-12, but what does that cost to get recharged at a shop?

Guess ill pick up a haynes guide to AC systems while im at it, i dont even know what the dryer does (but i can guess it de-humidifies the air...). Where can i get a replacemnt, my black dragon auto catalog doesnt lits the part. MSA maybe?

 

I've seen them on the net at misc. parts suppliers. Search google, it always answers my questions. As to changing out the seals for R134. Here's the unofficial skinny on that. You don't have to. Yes it would be a good idea to do so just for the sake of replacing the old ones, but it's not a must. To top it off, technically you don't even need to flush the system to get out the old R12 and oil. That's a legal/political matter that ended up in, "well we don't want left over R12 that could damage the ozone mixing in with this newer friendlier R134 so if you're going to change, change it all." Makes sense really, but the two refrigerants are perfectly safe together. Just change the fitting out for R134A, blow (or vacuum) the system out and refill. I'm running mine on R134 and the only seals I changed were the ones at the fittings. Been running it that way for quite some time and not had a problem yet. It blows just as cold as any newer cars AC. Haven't lost a pound of refrigerant either. Not starting an argument for those of you who are reading this thinking "that's not what my mechanic said!" I'm just stating a fact as told by the HVAC techs I work with and several others I don't. Do with this info what you will, I put it out there. Cheers!

 

Why Replace the Receiver-Drier?
The receiver-drier must be changed each time a system is empty regardless of the reason for loss of refrigerant. It should also be changed every three years, because the desiccant pellets will break down and clog the expansion valve. This will in turn cause the system to become inoperable and May damage the compressor.

The receiver-drier is strictly a disposable item and is thought of in the same terms as a fuel, oil, or air filter. In fact, if any component fails or is replaced for any reason, the receiver-drier must also be replaced to prevent corrosion and moisture in the system. The receiver-drier performs three functions:

-It filters the system of non-condensables.

-It receives the liquid refrigerant and maintains a certain level of liquid at the bottom at all times in a properly charged system.

-It contains a stack of pellets called desiccant (drying agent) to trap and absorb moisture. NOTE that moisture is the most harmful enemy of the air conditioning system. If any moisture is in the system, it will combine with the refrigerant to form hydrochloric acid which is extremely corrosive to metal components.

Replacing the receiver-drier is essential when servicing the A/C system. Whenever you replace a component of the A/C system you must also replace the receiver-drier. If you do not change the receiver-drier there could be serious damage to the other parts of the system, which could be very costly. WHY INSIST ON FLUSHING
There is no way to know how much oil is in a system
(1) Flushing eliminates excess oil from previous services. You do not want to add another full charge of oil when replacing a compressor and adding oil to the system.
(2) Sludge and debris, left in the system, clogs the orifice tube/expansion valve and can damage the valves in a compressor. Accumulator
Accumulator is canister after the Evaporator. Freon expands dramatically when it is heated up as it passes through the evaporator in the passenger compartment, absorbing the heat and changed into gas. The accumulator receives the (R12 or R134a) in the gas state as it leaves the passenger compartment evaporator. It has desiccant to trap moisture.



Taken from a GM forum, figured i would post it for future searchers making this post more useful to everyone.

 

i have a complete FSM minus the front and rear cover, for $30 +SH

 

I'd like to see the % of cars that actually get the drier replaced every three years... or ever for that matter. Prolly less than 1%

 

I agree, ive never heard of it before personally. But i was just posting the info i found to hopefully help others in the future who might be doing the same thing i am (rebuilding a torn up AC system themselves, amongst other things)