Might as well since I have it apart.

 

It is quite straightforward and should not take too long at all. Good luck and hope this cures your problem.

Here is a really good link to a rebuild with lots of pictures:

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...ild/index.html

 

Thanks for all the help. I have one coming to me Saturday from another zdriver member here in Nevada. I really hope this solves or at least lets me know where I'm at.

 

Today my life was saved by evandubya again. With the new to me dizzy dropped in I had that little kid at xmas feeling. So I triple checked every hose and wire and sat down to reread the "how to book" and turned the key....

BAM the beast started first turn of the day. Ran it, IOW the book, for 20 min then turned it off and re-torqued the intake/exhaust manifold bolts. Checked fluids and adjusted timing. It is idling at about 750-800 at 0 deg.

I had a nasty exhaust leak till I re-torqued the bolts.

Now I have to figure out where the short is in my temp and oil gauge.

Video will come..

 

That is great news! Glad to hear it all went well.

Now you can take your time on the old distributor for a rebuild/repair.

Lots of fun ahead, but I do know the feeling of hearing it run after it has sat for a long time.

 

Well not everything goes the way I want it do...

 

Well that's cool. Not many people stand back to take a pic of their burning fusible link.

 

You might want to upgrade...


EDIT:

This is the cheapest one I could find, obviously you don't want to go cheap but it's certainly an example of how little it costs to come into the 21st century if you choose. I haven't done this yet simply because I have a box of fusible links to get through first :P

EDIT 2:

Here's a couple that I might feel comfortable using in my car:

 

How difficult is it to make this upgrade? I like the price point since the FL I need is $9 each.

 

If you know how to use wire strippers, crimpers, heat shrink, and you aren't color blind, it's easy.

Just make sure you use the appropriate rated fuses to match the fusible link ratings.

 

Sounds fantastic. I'm sure it isn't difficult to do. Since I don't have a box of FL to go through I will definitely get on this, I'm sure it'll last longer.

 

I'm colorblind, left handed, and dyslexic! But Twiggs... he's got this!!

 

I just need a few pairs of little hands.

 

While I wait on what I need to fix my fusible links I decided to start looking into my other issues.

The PO's son had an alarm system installed and well... it needs to go. So that's going to be a fun project and I will post photos later.

When shifting into a gear (while driving) once the clutch is released there is a thud in the rear. I am assuming there is an issue with the differential. There is a lot of residue around the seal but no drips, yet. I do not want to do it but I have a feeling I need to rebuild it. I did a search on here, but not google or bing, and haven't found any write-ups on rebuilding a differential. I will be doing more searching soon. In the mean time is there any red flags I need to look out for? Minus the fact that it is leaking.

 

Ah, the infamous rear end clunk :P. I'd say to look at the diffy bushing first, its an infamous problem in Z's. Unless you have an R180 or it was poorly maintained, the diffy on these cars are quite robust.

 

I don't know about the R180 but I do know the car was not maintained well. The PO claimed he babied the Z when he had it but let his son take it to Vegas while he was in collage. I am pretty confident when I say this thing was left to take care of itself while in his sons possession.

 

I would think its the diff mount as well! The rubber bushing goes away, so when you speed up or slow down you get metal hitting metal.

 

The clunk is coming from either (or a combination of):
-Worn out (ripped) differential mount bushing.
-Worn out half shaft u-joint / cv shaft.
-Worn out drive shaft u-joint.

 

Sounds like I have a lot of work ahead.

 

If its the half shafts that are not bad...they are surprisingly really easy (even for a girl :P)... The halfshafts are just held on by 8 bolts/nuts (4 at the hub, and 4 at the diffy). The driveshaft is also only 4 bolts at the diffy, but takes more work getting out because the exhaust gets in the way.

 

I pulled the diff mount off and it pretty much fell apart. I also drained the fluid from the diff and I didn't think anything could be worse than the engine oil but I was mistaken.

 

It took a while to get the bolts out of the Diff since they had started to rust. The rubber will be replaced with urethane. I will be cleaning out the internals and ordering a new gasket on the first.

 

No good. I wouldn't run more than 30A through that type of fuse. You want ANL, mini ANL (MANL) or MIDI for your fuseable links. Not cheap but it's proper.

 

I will get a new FL till I can get this set up.

 

I picked up a polyurethane diff mount from evandubya got it and the diff cover back on last night. I plan to fill the diff in the morning and put the radio back in since I finally ripped out the pos alarm system that didn't work anyway.

Still haven't taken care of the fusible link.
Does anyone know the (new) fuse rating that I can use to replace them?
I am considering doing what Nismopick said and use female connectors and fuses for now.