82 280zx Rebuild Progress
09-06-2012, 08:54 AM
#51
Lifegrddude was running SVO 370cc injectors and a dialed back AFM. He was probably close to 270hp (he posted all about it a few years ago).
09-06-2012, 09:53 AM
#52
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Provo, UT
Posts: 126
Blue exhaust smoke is a dead give away for toasted rings and or valves. I don't think your motor needs to be opened up at all from your inspection findings.
You'd reuse the stock pistons and just buy a re-ring kit unless you wanted / needed to go overbore, or if the pistons had damage.
You'd reuse the stock pistons and just buy a re-ring kit unless you wanted / needed to go overbore, or if the pistons had damage.
09-06-2012, 10:03 AM
#53
The Haynes is literally a compilation of all 79-83 FSM's, but obviously consolidated and generalized. Those 178psi specs are for the L28E high compression motor. I've driven and inspected that car, and from your compression test, I wouldn't rebuild the entire motor unless you want to spend lots of $$$ and do upgrades while you are in there.
I guess if you plan to make the car your daily driver for the next 10 years, do a rebuild now, but your chassis will need a lot of love by then too.
It's really a question of "when / where / how much to get you satisfied with the car?"
I guess if you plan to make the car your daily driver for the next 10 years, do a rebuild now, but your chassis will need a lot of love by then too.
It's really a question of "when / where / how much to get you satisfied with the car?"
09-06-2012, 12:31 PM
#54
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So, does this mean i shouldn't even need the head gasket set? If that's the case, then I would just clean off the engine and go ahead with the swap. Before yesterday's test, I was basically just planning on using the felpro head gasket set, and changing out the rubber for fuel lines, vacuum lines, and things like that. If I don't have to even use replace the gaskets from the set, that will make things to a lot quicker.
09-06-2012, 12:49 PM
#55
Replace the water pump & gasket. And depending on the condition of the current one, replace the intake / exhaust gasket and hardware (look for carbon build up or burnt gasket at cyl #1 and 6).
Once you have the engine on a stand, you'll be able to go through it and check everything. Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Once you have the engine on a stand, you'll be able to go through it and check everything. Don't order parts until you know what you need.
09-06-2012, 05:05 PM
#56
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Replace the water pump & gasket. And depending on the condition of the current one, replace the intake / exhaust gasket and hardware (look for carbon build up or burnt gasket at cyl #1 and 6).
Once you have the engine on a stand, you'll be able to go through it and check everything. Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Once you have the engine on a stand, you'll be able to go through it and check everything. Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
09-06-2012, 06:02 PM
#57
"Rachel" - 1972 Datsun 240Z
I am in Sparks, NV. I am not too impressed with this place. I had my first Z in Hawaii and it was 1 of maybe 3 I saw during the 7 years I was stationed there. Here I find them all riced out and I die a little inside. The other day at summit racing I saw an 87 turbo in very sad condition and the guys put a set of 12s in it thinking they were cool. So sad. Fix the damn car first.
BTW FricFrac what year is the Z on the far right of your sig?
BTW FricFrac what year is the Z on the far right of your sig?
09-06-2012, 10:17 PM
#58
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Provo, UT
Posts: 126
in my defense, the head gasket idea was BECAUSE of searching through the forum and seeing how often this site is linked to in rebuild/swap threads. It says "Another thing to get is a gasket kit. Felpro makes them for the L-series sixes, and I think Mr. Gasket too. Buy some gasket sealer and high temp silicon to seal all the gaskets (some don't require sealer(ie head gasket), so see the manuals). NAPA carries a lot of good brush on gasket sealers." 
09-07-2012, 02:00 PM
#59
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 201
Is it possible with the forum software when someone types in rebuild and engine the screen fills up with :
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
Don't order parts until you know what you need.
I am still waiting on the shop to tell me the condition of everything. It is very tempting to just jump on that turbo engine from evandubya but, the last thing I want to do is rip apart another engine if anything is wrong with it.
Are the rotating assemblies interchangable?
09-07-2012, 04:12 PM
#60
^^^
"Rotating assembly" is a general term to describe a lot of parts.
The L28ET and low compression L28E use dished low compression pistons (they are different part#'s though). The L28E high compression motor uses flat tops.
The L28ET and low compression L28E use dished low compression pistons (they are different part#'s though). The L28E high compression motor uses flat tops.
09-21-2012, 12:24 AM
#64
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09-21-2012, 12:51 PM
#65
Looks good
Looks good so far, I've enjoyed this thread, been a fun read, nice to see you will have her back together soon. I like the fact that you have taken the time to dress up the engine, as far as repainting and getting the parts nice and clean, use a nice thin coat of sealer on the gaskets (Valve cover, oil pan etc) and torque everything down slowly working your way up in Lbs and she should be leak free. Nice to keep it looking pretty after all your hard work !! Cheers
Last edited by PredatorZ; 09-21-2012 at 12:52 PM. Reason: spelling
09-23-2012, 12:18 AM
#67
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The damn machine shop ordered me the wrong size piston rings! So not only do I have to wait till monday to take them in, I have to wait till they get the right ones in... I guess its back to cleaning and painting.
09-28-2012, 03:13 PM
#68
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Bs
Got the bearings in, put the crank in, set the caps in place, set the torque wrench to 36lbs (book says 33-40lbs), snapped the first bolt right off in the center cap. WTF?!?!?!?!?
Motorsport! ARP Main Cap Stud Kit, 70-83 Z/ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts
Is there a cheaper place to pick them up?
Motorsport! ARP Main Cap Stud Kit, 70-83 Z/ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts
Is there a cheaper place to pick them up?
09-28-2012, 03:37 PM
#69
Got the bearings in, put the crank in, set the caps in place, set the torque wrench to 36lbs (book says 33-40lbs), snapped the first bolt right off in the center cap. WTF?!?!?!?!?
Motorsport! ARP Main Cap Stud Kit, 70-83 Z/ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts
Is there a cheaper place to pick them up?
Motorsport! ARP Main Cap Stud Kit, 70-83 Z/ZX - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts
Is there a cheaper place to pick them up?
a lot better deal, appears to be the same thing
and this even less same thing about 100$ free shipping
http://thmotorsports.com/i-61571.asp...FWHZQgoddSwARg
Last edited by PredatorZ; 09-28-2012 at 04:02 PM. Reason: added 2nd link
09-28-2012, 10:32 PM
#71
Mr Z++ Wiki
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
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1983 NISSAN ARP Main Stud Kits - L6 Engine Type - SummitRacing.com
a lot better deal, appears to be the same thing
and this even less same thing about 100$ free shipping
ARP Main Stud/Bolt Kits NISSAN 280ZX 1979 - 1983 202-5406
a lot better deal, appears to be the same thing
and this even less same thing about 100$ free shipping
ARP Main Stud/Bolt Kits NISSAN 280ZX 1979 - 1983 202-5406
09-30-2012, 01:26 AM
#72
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Posts: 201
The bolt I broke is for the center cap holding the crankshaft in. Aren't those stud bolts?
I have the ARP Rod & Head bolts. What is it that makes them better than any other?
I have the ARP Rod & Head bolts. What is it that makes them better than any other?
Last edited by Twiggs280zx; 09-30-2012 at 02:23 AM.
10-02-2012, 07:31 PM
#73
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Update...
Got the head,rod, and cap bolts. Installed the crank & pistons to spec.
On the #5 piston it is stamped 23 P79 and all of the others are stamped 45 P79 does anyone know why this would be and does it make a difference?
On the #5 piston it is stamped 23 P79 and all of the others are stamped 45 P79 does anyone know why this would be and does it make a difference?
