280ZXT - wasn't going to be a project...
#51
I was away on course 4000 miles from home so I got everything set up with my MegaSquirt III. Setup the AFR, VE and Ignition tables, etc. Went home for four days and finished installing the wide band O2, calibrated the sensors and I'm ready to fire it up when something clicks in my brain. When I turned the ignition on the MSIII should have fired the fuel pump for 2 seconds. Didn't hear anything. Checked the schematics and MSIII switches ground on and the S130 switches +12 on..... argh I just wanted to fire it up while I was home. Oh well back in the hotel 4000 miles from home again for fifteen days.... so close.... just an inverting relay away.... sigh...
Last edited by FricFrac; 10-19-2011 at 07:25 PM.
#53
Finally! Up and running with MegaSquirt 3. Just need to set the timing then we can start playing....
http://youtu.be/QhFg99xN1xA?hd=1
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http://youtu.be/QhFg99xN1xA?hd=1
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Last edited by FricFrac; 11-06-2011 at 10:03 PM.
#56
So we managed to get some tuning done. Starting with idol and warm up enrichment. Noticed the WB 02 wasn't hooked up to the adapter. Once that was working I was able to use the VE auto tune which works great! Only issue now is the priming pulse for start up and possibly the timing on start as well. Runs fantastic - better than stock already and I haven't tuned it on the dyno yet. Only thing the stock ECU did better is the initial start up but we'll get that figured out
#57
ok, so you have to make me one of those adapter harnesses... and then tell me what sensors/connections/relays were change/made/etc to the non ECU side of the harness. cause even though that may not remove some of the unnecessary wires from the stock harness, it is awesome, I want....
#59
More progress and success! Played with the injector PWM, timing and cranking pulses and she fires up right away. This is way easier to tune than the carbs on my nitro R/C cars lol!
Last edited by FricFrac; 11-07-2011 at 10:44 PM.
#63
Well if I got mine going then I'm sure we can get your setup going. I'm out of town until Dec 18th but we should try and figure out what's going on with your setup. Do you have a turbo dizzy you can play with? Any info on the Mallory one you're using right now?
#64
No turbo dizzy here. Just a reluctor na type and the Mallory. There is a page in the mega manual of how to hook it up. It's exactly like the turbo with a pull up resistor. I used the one you sent. Sometimes I wish I didn't want to use a dizzy and just go coil on plug
#65
Matt is working on a proper wheel for the turbo dizzy. The stock wheel had two rings - one with 360 slots and one with 6. We use the 6 slot for MS which is good for the normal dizzy setup or wasted spark. The wheel diyautotune.com is making is probably a 36 tooth with two missing slots and a single slot on the second ring for TDC. That will let you do COP or CNP for spark and sequential injection (or any other setup for that matter).
Are you getting a trigger signal from the Dizzy? I hooked mine up with power out of the car and spun it with a drill to verify it was working.
It's a pain but even if you run without a dizzy and you want COP you still need a trigger and the dizzy is the easiest setup for that. See if you can get a turbo dizzy and it will give you the option to move to COP in the future.
Are you getting a trigger signal from the Dizzy? I hooked mine up with power out of the car and spun it with a drill to verify it was working.
It's a pain but even if you run without a dizzy and you want COP you still need a trigger and the dizzy is the easiest setup for that. See if you can get a turbo dizzy and it will give you the option to move to COP in the future.
Last edited by FricFrac; 11-11-2011 at 04:54 PM.
#66
Still on holidays but a here's part of the plan when I get back....
Took a stock turbo downpipe which just barely 2" on the turbo outlet side. Lopped the flange off and ported matched it to the turbo and flared it to 2.5" for a mandrel bent down pipe I'm fabbing up. Flared the 2.5" mandrel to go into the second 90 degree 3" downpipe... just hoping the downpipe is made of the same materials as the log manifold - cast steel....
Took a stock turbo downpipe which just barely 2" on the turbo outlet side. Lopped the flange off and ported matched it to the turbo and flared it to 2.5" for a mandrel bent down pipe I'm fabbing up. Flared the 2.5" mandrel to go into the second 90 degree 3" downpipe... just hoping the downpipe is made of the same materials as the log manifold - cast steel....
Last edited by FricFrac; 11-23-2011 at 07:05 PM.
#67
Nice! 3" is a monster!
I just used 1/2" or 1/4" plate steel (I can't remember which... which ever matches the stock flange) for my 2.5" mandrel downpipe.
Marked the center, chopped it with a hole saw, marked the stud holes w/ the gasket, drilled, welded.
I just used 1/2" or 1/4" plate steel (I can't remember which... which ever matches the stock flange) for my 2.5" mandrel downpipe.
Marked the center, chopped it with a hole saw, marked the stud holes w/ the gasket, drilled, welded.
#69
i just bought a flange that matched the bolt pattern only cost 10 bucks.... lol. and how did you flare it to 3 inches? or did you just buy a pipe like that, cause half of my down pipe is 2.5" but I as well want to go to 3" at that point. imho 3" is the minimal on a turbo engine... and I seriously want that harness adapter
#70
Nice setup snwbrderphat540. Just curious about your O2 sensor. It looks like a stock narrow band so I'm assuming you don't really need to get at it. I'm running a wideband so it needs to be taken out every few months to be calibrated. The say to put the WBO2 about 18 inches from the turbo OR put a heat sink on it. I think I'll go the heatsink route to keep it easy to get at.
Also are you running a screamer pipe or do you bring the external wastegate into the exhaust?
I just took the 2.5" mandrel to the muffler shop and had them cut off all but about 2 or three inches of the straight piece past the 90 degree bend then had them flare it out to 3" to fit the 3" mandrel. There is a hydrolic flaring tool that will stretch it out. The reason I went with the 2.5" coming out of the turbo was the bolt pattern around the T3 doesn't leave enough room to turn the bolts without either indenting the 3" where the bolts go or making a flange out of 1" plate and machining down half an inch around the bolt holes wide enough to turn to bolts on. The exit for the turbo is barely 2" anyhow and the best setup would be to have a 10-15% flare coming out of the turbo to the 3" downpipe. I don't think I have enough room to put the flare and the 3" mandrel in before hitting the firewall. I'll have to get it up on the hoist first to see if a flare would work.
Also are you running a screamer pipe or do you bring the external wastegate into the exhaust?
I just took the 2.5" mandrel to the muffler shop and had them cut off all but about 2 or three inches of the straight piece past the 90 degree bend then had them flare it out to 3" to fit the 3" mandrel. There is a hydrolic flaring tool that will stretch it out. The reason I went with the 2.5" coming out of the turbo was the bolt pattern around the T3 doesn't leave enough room to turn the bolts without either indenting the 3" where the bolts go or making a flange out of 1" plate and machining down half an inch around the bolt holes wide enough to turn to bolts on. The exit for the turbo is barely 2" anyhow and the best setup would be to have a 10-15% flare coming out of the turbo to the 3" downpipe. I don't think I have enough room to put the flare and the 3" mandrel in before hitting the firewall. I'll have to get it up on the hoist first to see if a flare would work.
Last edited by FricFrac; 11-25-2011 at 01:05 PM.
#71
yeah that damn t3 turbine... I was mad when I made that discovery about 2.5" piping right off the turbo is the max. Un'ess I bolted a 5bolt t3 flange with a 3" V-band flange onto it.... but that just seemed awkwardly excessive.
And yes that is a screamer pipe off an externally gated TiAL if it wasn't obvious, and yes that is a narrow band 18" away. But this is in an S30 so actually it isn't that hard to access the O2 sensor. just don't have a whole lot of room for long wrench turns.
Thanks for the expander info. Didn't know it could make a half inch change in diameter haha. Still want that MS adapter harness...
And yes that is a screamer pipe off an externally gated TiAL if it wasn't obvious, and yes that is a narrow band 18" away. But this is in an S30 so actually it isn't that hard to access the O2 sensor. just don't have a whole lot of room for long wrench turns.
Thanks for the expander info. Didn't know it could make a half inch change in diameter haha. Still want that MS adapter harness...
#72
Yea they had to go slowly to expand the pipe to make sure it didn't get too thin. The expansion wasn't even but it worked out better for flow IMHO. The inside of the mandrel is thicker than the outside so when I had the pipe expanded most of the expansion force went to the outside of the bend which is where more of the exhaust gas will be directed. Marginal gains but every bit counts when you're adding them up
If you look at the flare you can see most of it expands on the same side that had the outside curve on the 2.5" mandrel.
If you look at the flare you can see most of it expands on the same side that had the outside curve on the 2.5" mandrel.
#73
I didn't think I would be able to get anything done on the car being several thousands of miles away on the other side of the country. Apparently Santa's elves decided to have a backup plan in case Rudolph wasn't up to the task. This is what I saw when I drove into the driveway coming home from the airport today lol.
#74
I picked up a serial/Bluetooth adapter from Phil Tobin (ala Tuner Studio fame) for the 280ZXT and one for my buddy's 200SX/KA24 swap. The range on these are amazing! Works with my laptop in Tuner Studio as well as Shadow Tuner on my Samsung Galaxy Android phone - sweet!