hey guys, well my Z has sat for 8 months with it only being started once every week or two. I got the car re insured and am driving it again but it feels like it is misfiring. I checked the spark wires and they are all delivering spark. I removed the one or two spark plugs that i could get out(my other 4 plugs are seized to the block! hoping to get them off soon) and they were not rich and seem to have been burning fine, and im sure the others will be fine too since they are practically new! I then checked my TPS sensor and there was some corrosion could that be the reason why my car is running bad. I also put new 93 octane after i emptied the old tank.For reference it sound like it has a bad v8, it doesn't sound like a smooth inline6. Anything else that should be checked? Im planning on turboing my NA engine soon so thats why i need to the motor running good. Thanks

 

Corrosion on the TPS could cause probs. Also check the AFM, CHTS, & fuel injector connections. Check timing and vac hoses too. So really... check everything.

 

you got questions about turboing the NA you got me n nismo, i just did mine with his helpful knowledge of the turbo motor, its fun! just started mine yesterday. and these are simple motors, check everything you can even rplace everything for cheap, but since you want to turbo your NA if you go my route your gonna change your distributor to so dont waste money on a new cap and rotor, but change those plugs to NGK and clean all your connections. and yeah check or even replace all the vacumme lines it doesnt take long and all that will prolly cost like 30 bucks, maybe even change your plug wires, if there is still a problem report back!

 

Thanks bro, i could use all the help i can get yeah im buying a stock L28ET turbo, turbo manifold, turbo injectors, turbo oil pan and oil lines for $250. Thats a good deal right? Im gonna try and get the engine running right before I go ahead and do the turbo install, Ill let you guys know if i find the problem. The last time the car sounded like this was because of a faulty plug in cyl4. After we replaced it with a new plug the car sounded and ran great! But i checked cyl4 and its firing and i sprayed WD40 in my corroded sensor. oh and can you tell me any issues you had with turboing your NA? i plan on using the N/A ECU, i heard i could use it as long as i dont boost more than the stock 7psi? Thanks

 

That's the really crappy / wrong way to do it... There is a reason Nissan has a different ecu & harness for the turbo motor.

-You need more fuel
-You need bigger injectors & a way to control them
-You need to monitor more air flow
-You need a better way to control timing

The list goes on & on. Spend another $100 and get the turbo ecu, wiring & distrib.

 

I was told on another forum that to just use the NA ECU and save up for MSnS instead of a turbo ECU, and for more fuel im using the turbo injectors. So theres no way to run turbo with the NA ECU? Also how am i gonna get the boosted air from the turbo to my TB and intake manifold. There NA AFM is in the way.

 

You can run a turbo on the N/A ECU, but it's not recommended. Also the turbo dist. isn't going to work with the N/A ECU so essentially all youd be adding is the manifold turbo and oil pan. If you run boost on an N/A ECU you're likely to run lean under boost, ping and break ringlands pistons and many other things that will make your motor run even crappier. Before you do anything, I agree with the MSnS or Ms-II advice. It truely is the best way to go, but do not try to reuse any of your old harness. You'll be chasing old problems all over again.
Summary,
Save up and get the MS. Put everything together right the first time and keep the boost semi low. You are running flot top pistons on a head meant for N/A.

 

Think really hard about that one... You will be throwing A LOT more air in, and no more fuel... that is called SUPER LEAN. What happens to an engine running super lean? It detonates and likes to throw rods, blow holes in pistons, melt valves... If that sounds fun to you, go for it.

There's another prob... the na AFM isn't calibrated for a turbo motor, and it's quite small (aka RESTRICTIVE). Use the turbocharger boot & turbo AFM and it will fit correctly. You'll need to cut the na AFM stand off from the inner wheel well.

 

man looks like I got alot of work to do...Well ill try to save up for the MSnS even though i doubt i have the skills to put it together and to get it to run. Anyway im gonna go ahead and buy the parts i listed so far since its a good deal and wait till i have all the other necessary parts for the install. Thanks for the info guys! Ill keep you guys updated, and be asking more questions (after i searched i know the drill lol) Thanks again. oh and heres a pic of my carLMK what you think

 

dude, if you dont have teh skills to put together MS then you wont have teh skills to wire in a turbo wiring harness and ecu. lol. but yeah if your going ms, then skip the turbo ecu and harness (but dont run it on the NA ecu jsut save up your supplies till your ready for a full build) you wont need an AFM anymore either, you need a turbo exhuast manifold, turbo, turbo J pipe, that or your own intercooler kit, turbo down pipe/O2 housing and O2 sensor (your NA one will fit and should work), i guess the NA distributor will work with MS i dont know about that one, and you need i think a MAP for MS not a maf or AFM, well you could use a MAF but why the hell would you MAP you can run filter right on turbo, you'll now need to get the Turbo oil pan on as well, then the T3 turbo better have the return fitting on otheriwse your gonna have to customize, then a 1/2 i beleive hose about 3 inches long to join the turbo and oil pan (they practically touch) then just get a T3 SS braided oil feed line fit, then a T fitting from nappa that fits your oil pressure senders threads put it in the block and the pressure sender on and the SS hose should or might fit, if not, ill tell you what to do when we come to it, idk if im forgetting anything else, oh yeah, DUH!!! bigger injectors, might as well get a custom fuel rail for the 11mm injectors its what DSM supra's and so forth use, and you can to since your gonna use MS and of coarse a turbo fuel pump or better.

 

oh yeah! and turbo ol pump, and if you do go turbo distributor dont be like me and get the turbo oil pump/distributor shaft, lol i had to "modify" my distributor to accept the NA shaft. DOH! nismo forgot to mention that one till it was to late ..... DAMN YOU!!!!! lol its seems to be wroking fine though.

 

pft... I'm not going to change your diaper too.

 

thanks again for all that info! keep it coming! I love to know everything that i have to do before hand! yeah i may not have alot of skills but the dude who's selling me all the turbo stuff is also gonna help me and he has alot of experience with Zs. Im meeting with him tonight to talk about how were gonna do everything. Oh and im getting the stock turbo oil pan, oil lines and turbo injectors as well. I checked out MSs price and now i regret buying a MSD 6AL and blaster 2 coil, could have bought the megasquirt with that money

 

Took off the few injector connectors i could reach and they all had that same creme colored corrosion I had in the TPS sensor in them...also still no luck with the other spark plugs! I drowned them in WD40 and they still wont budge...one if them even stated to crack as i tried to take them off! They are seized to the block

 

Sounds like someone put the plugs in hot...by that I mean they did not let the engine cool down before installing the plugs. Let the car warm up to full operating temp and grab your 13/16th" spark plug socket and a 1 foot extension and pull those puppies out!!! When you use the ratchet..one with a long handle, don't jerk it...use a slow steady pull when trying to remove them...sharp quick pulls could break the plugs. Let the engine COOL DOWN before you put them back in!!!! Watch your knuckles

 

dont forget to wipe and powder my ***! :P

 

ok replaced all the spark plugs with new NGKs (most of the old plugs were covered in fuel) and sprayed carb cleaner into the cylinders. Also checked the knock sensor (the sensor under and between plugs 6 and 5) the clip is broken on it and the only thing holding it there is a ziptie and some silicone. Could that be why my car is still running bad?

 

that is the cylinder head temp sensor isn't it?

 

yes it is ^^^^ its not a knock sensor, only turbo motors have a knock sensor.