Alexander Kihl

Hi!
My name is Alexander and I live in Sweden.
I own one of two original turbos here in this country ( I had the other one 15 years ago), so there is not so much info here, about the turbo models.

I got my car in 2007. It was bought new in the USA by a Swedish man, that brought it here, when he moved.

Later he was sick and died.
I then took this car over.
It would not start then, but I found it was a clitch in the cpu connector, so I got to run nicely back then.

Due to family life and so on, I didn´t have the time to work on it anymore, so I stored it, I drove it there. This was in 2009.

Two days ago I picked it up, I felt like doing something with it or pass it on.
I took it home with trailer, washed it up and so.

Checked the essentils, like oil and stuff, then tried to start it.
Nothing.

I thought it was the clitchy connector to the cpu, but it was not (I can tell, because when I crank it, the rpm meeter moves a little, when it is ok, when it is not, it lies dead)

I then changed the fuel in it, just to outrule it was old, I also took away all the electric connectors in the engine compartement, checked, blew them with air and used electro-protect.
I also looked at distributor cap, spark plugs, lines and all I could think of.
Nothing wrong.

Removed plugs and they were all dry and looked normal.

I then suspected something with the fuel pum. Removed the connector from the starter and held key in "start" position. Then there was no sound from the fuel pump. I then gave it directcurrent from the battery to let it run all the time.

No difference.

I then measured the injector connector with a small lamp, and it flickers a little (see film) so I suppose the injectors gets the signal. Cold start valve disconnected (as described in my Haynes book).


The car runs fine on starter fluid (?), so it has a spark.

The problem is obviously fuel.

I have limited knowledge about the fuel pressure regulator.
In the book it says how to test it, but many tests assumes that the car is running.
Would a faulty regulator prevent the car from even starting?

If I crank it now, it "puffs" I mean it tries to start, but does not. This when I try to start it without depressing the gaspedal, like I should.

When I depress the pedal, it tries harder to start, almost runs, but not.
This is also on the film.

I realise that I can troubleshoot all components with the help of the book, but I feel like I could use som help.

I feel a bit tired of my car, at the moment...

Anyway, if there is anyone who has an idea, I would be very grateful!

Also, I´m sorry if I misspell or name things strange, I am from Sweden:

Here is the film:

borini63

I think you answered your self.......Fuel Pump!!!!
Try to find another fuel pump and see what will happen.

Alexander Kihl

Hi!
Thank you for answer.

I went back to my garage and continued, after cooling off a bit

I tried it agan, for no reason and imagen my surprise when it actuelly started.
It went like crap, but it ran on its own!

I then started to see why it was not running on all cylindres, by removing one spark plug connector at a time.
It did not respond to 3 of 6 cylinders.
Ok, I thought.
While I was standing there, with engine running, it started to go more even.
Now 4 cylinders.

And suddenly it was only one cylinder left, not running.
Hm.

I tapped the injector on that one and voilá! All 6!

As far as I can tell, the problem was that the injectors were siezed somehow, from standing still for so long.

I have worked with cars for over 25 years, but I have never had one acting like this.

I guess there´s something new to learn every day.

I even took it out on the road and refreshed my memory of what an amazing car this is

Anyway, thanks!

Here is a new video of it running:


Also some pics

Photoguy360

Next time try this when starting an old car it might help.

I have a 1983 280z turbo currently non-running, Bad ECU.

nice job