280ZX (S130) Forums Dedicated to 79-83 ZCars

1982 280zx 2+2 Renovation

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-15-2014, 03:12 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
wavesofnoise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 4
1982 280zx 2+2 Renovation

My dad purchased a 1982 Nissan 280zx 2+2 about 10 years ago and recently it has come into my hands. It’s in decent shape overall, but could still use some work. I personally don’t know much about cars, but am willing to learn. I’m posting this to a few Z Car related forums in hopes of finding people who are willing to help me get it back in the shape I would like to see it. I’ve never really posted on a forum before so here’s a list of what I see as small things that need to be done. If you need any pictures or extra information please feel free to ask.

-Replace windshield wiper fluid tubing
-Fix Betty (used to work and sometimes still does, but not often)
-Driver side door will chime during turns or if window is down, light occasionally comes on (disabled chime under driver side dash)
-Realign passenger side window (pops out of place when closing door, realigns when I lower and raise window)
-Look into repairing minor dents
-Touch up scratches (Already have color matched paint/clearcoat)
-Repair seal on back right hatch (water leaks during rain or car wash)
-Repair passenger side visor
-Replace front right turn signal lense
-Replace roof light cover
-Remove/repair rust spots
-Check gear for speedometer pinion to make sure speedometer is displaying correct speed
-Diagnose other possible problems that need fixing that may not be apparent to me

Thanks again in advance for the help and my apologies if I’m posting in the wrong place
wavesofnoise is offline  
Old 04-15-2014, 09:51 AM
  #2  
Big Poppa
 
SHADY280's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
-Replace windshield wiper fluid tubing
use vacuum tubing it works great from parts store

-Fix Betty (used to work and sometimes still does, but not often)
betty uses the stock stereo but the module is in the back under the plastic interior and could have a loose connection

-Driver side door will chime during turns or if window is down, light occasionally comes on (disabled chime under driver side dash)
check the switch at the bottom back of the door frame, its possibly loose or the wires have disconnected or rubbed thru

-Realign passenger side window (pops out of place when closing door, realigns when I lower and raise window)
remove pass side door panel, there are many adjustments in the door, just play with it and you will see, don't go to high or close the door all the way while adjusting, if in the wrong spot it may break the window

-Look into repairing minor dents
-Touch up scratches (Already have color matched paint/clearcoat)

-Repair seal on back right hatch (water leaks during rain or car wash)
it may be the tail light seals, they leak too. you can get new rubber seals for everything if you look for them. got my hatch one at nissan

-Repair passenger side visor
-Replace front right turn signal lense
-Replace roof light cover
find new parts on ebay or post a wtb ad in our classifieds.

-Remove/repair rust spots
they are going to be bigger than they look, tread carefully

-Check gear for speedometer pinion to make sure speedometer is displaying correct speed
just drive with someone else following or find a speed reader board and test, at least it works. if you have stock gear ratios in the rear and the tire diameter is correct you will be fine

hope that all helps
SHADY280 is offline  
Old 04-20-2014, 01:19 AM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
wavesofnoise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 4
Got the tubing, but no sign of liquid flow. Starting to think it may be the pump.

Would the loose connection be at the radio head unit or the mini-phonograph?

I'm guessing loose wires. Another thread said to clean the switch, but not what to clean it with. It seems more sensitive towards the hinge than by the switch, which makes me think it's inside the panel or something between the door and the body of the car by the hinge.

Would the FSM tell me what the correct adjustments would be?

Given what I can see it's pretty clear it's the hatch. The leather inside the hatch is opened up and the chrome around the top of the hatch exposes a crack in the weather stripping. Just not sure what to do about it.

Unfortunately I know this. Thankfully the rust spots aren't massive. Just need to figure out if I need to take it into a body shop or if there's a logical way to do it myself.

Reason I want to check the gear is while I was in 4th gear driving in a 40 a speed reader board said I was going 40 while my speedometer said I was going 45. It explains why I get passed on the freeway going what I think is 70...

Thank you very much for your reply. If you have any questions for me just ask.
wavesofnoise is offline  
Old 04-22-2014, 08:58 AM
  #4  
Big Poppa
 
SHADY280's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mission, British Columbia
Posts: 4,499
it very well could be the pump, try it without the hoses and see, also use a light tester and a friend and see if power is getting to the pump, maybe the switch is no good, alternatively you can also just use jumper wires and power the pump and check its operation.

as far as betty goes i never have had to diagnose her, frankly i really never cared if a car talked to me or not, but if your going for an all stock car then it would be nice to have working.

for the door switch you can take the rubber boot off of it and un screw it and check the operation of it and even use a ohm meter to check its operation. use electrical cleaner to clean the switch but because of the boot they never really get dirty

the window is more of a fit and try thing, every car is different and every cars rubber seal is worn different, if you use the fsm to find out how to adjust while looking at the window it will come to you, sounds funny but hard to explain.

the rust repair all depends on your tools and skill level. I've tackled many rust repairs and i actually like doing them, they give my brain a challenge, but some may not think so. you will also need to paint it as well, the university of google can help with tricks and techniques or if you old school the library also can do the same.

are your tire sizes stock? this will effect the speedo more than you think, if not tires then the gear may need to be changed for the correct colour gear. the rear differential ratio is what determines such colour as there are about 5 choices but 3 are common, white, blue and red.
SHADY280 is offline  
Old 04-22-2014, 08:47 PM
  #5  
Mr Z++ Wiki
 
FricFrac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
Picture of the area you're trying to repair? There isn't chrome or leather where you're describing so I'm a bit lost...
FricFrac is offline  
Old 04-23-2014, 11:21 AM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
wavesofnoise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by SHADY280
it very well could be the pump, try it without the hoses and see, also use a light tester and a friend and see if power is getting to the pump, maybe the switch is no good, alternatively you can also just use jumper wires and power the pump and check its operation.

as far as betty goes i never have had to diagnose her, frankly i really never cared if a car talked to me or not, but if your going for an all stock car then it would be nice to have working.

for the door switch you can take the rubber boot off of it and un screw it and check the operation of it and even use a ohm meter to check its operation. use electrical cleaner to clean the switch but because of the boot they never really get dirty

the window is more of a fit and try thing, every car is different and every cars rubber seal is worn different, if you use the fsm to find out how to adjust while looking at the window it will come to you, sounds funny but hard to explain.

the rust repair all depends on your tools and skill level. I've tackled many rust repairs and i actually like doing them, they give my brain a challenge, but some may not think so. you will also need to paint it as well, the university of google can help with tricks and techniques or if you old school the library also can do the same.

are your tire sizes stock? this will effect the speedo more than you think, if not tires then the gear may need to be changed for the correct colour gear. the rear differential ratio is what determines such colour as there are about 5 choices but 3 are common, white, blue and red.
*It's actually the switch. Rear pump works, but somewhere from the switch to the pump things go wrong, so I have to disassemble the steering column to access the switch and the wires. Making a makeshift switch as a temporary fix. Going on a drive to LA this weekend and would like to have wiper fluid fully functional if possible.

*I'm getting a new radio head unit today and will try and rewire better in there since I think I forgot to do that with the old radio head unit. We'll see how that goes.

*I'll check out the door today as well. I'll let you know what I find.

*I'll see what time allows me to do today, maybe I'll be able to fix that too.

*Given the locations of the spots and how much of a beginner I am, I don't think I want to risk it too much unless I had a guide or something. The big spots are right underneath the driver and passenger side windows behind the door (little triangular windows) and right by the air intake slot in the hood for where the turbo would be if I had one. Just seem like tricky areas to try to buff out and not damage other spots on the car, but that's my opinion and it could be much easier than I thought.

*I believe they're stock. My dad had done some work to the car before I had, but I don't believe he touched the tires other than getting them replaced for safety reasons. I do know he swapped the tranny, which is why I think that's where the issue lies. He thinks he forgot to change the speedometer pinion gear when swapping out the tranny. The other issue with the info he gave me is he says he went from a 4 speed manual to a 5 speed, but from what I understand they never had a 4 speed 280. The speed reader signs typically read about a 5 mph difference from what my speedometer is saying.
wavesofnoise is offline  
Old 04-23-2014, 12:29 PM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
wavesofnoise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by FricFrac
Picture of the area you're trying to repair? There isn't chrome or leather where you're describing so I'm a bit lost...
280zx work - Imgur

I'll probably be adding images to the album as I start doing more work with it, but currently there should be 4 images of the hatch with descriptions on each
wavesofnoise is offline  
Old 04-24-2014, 07:41 PM
  #8  
Mr Z++ Wiki
 
FricFrac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Posts: 2,195
It's possible the seal is leaking from that spot. Best way to tell is to have water there and check it when it's in the rain, etc. The panel under that side that covers the spare tire should have a screw in fastener that holds it back up. Betty is up under the adjoining panel btw..
FricFrac is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Murph Z32
280ZX Performance / Technical
9
12-12-2011 01:51 PM
280ZXfan
280ZX (S130) Forums
5
02-19-2011 10:10 PM
Nissan4Ever_626
280ZX Performance / Technical
2
05-31-2008 08:47 PM
skbjrnkv
For Sale (VIEW ALL)
0
08-05-2004 04:02 PM
zstone
240Z, 260Z, 280Z (S30) Forums
0
04-02-2002 11:50 PM



Quick Reply: 1982 280zx 2+2 Renovation



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:16 PM.