when should u change the clutch ?
when should u change the clutch ?
hello everybody i have a quick question about clutch plate and clutch disks ... i bought my 82 280zxt 2 years ago and have only put about 25,000 miles on it since i bought it.. the gentaleman told me he put in a new turbo charger and a new clutch i will admit the clutch doesnt feel like it use to or hold like it use to...meening.. in first gear the rpms shoot up to about 3,500 rpms at about 10 miles per hour in first gear then to 25 mph in second gear at 3,500 ..
at 3500 rpms is when i shift when i first drove the car it felt differant kinda like " more power " maybe the clutch is slipping ? i really cant tell,.,.,
anyways has any body ever chagned out there clutch componets ? as for me i have changed out clutched in front wheel drive honda civics.. onyl because my friend jason didint know how to.. so i showed him how... but then agian thats a front wheel drive and the 280zx is a rear wheel drive...
Any helpful hints or tricks will help me out greatly.. thanks, ken
at 3500 rpms is when i shift when i first drove the car it felt differant kinda like " more power " maybe the clutch is slipping ? i really cant tell,.,.,
anyways has any body ever chagned out there clutch componets ? as for me i have changed out clutched in front wheel drive honda civics.. onyl because my friend jason didint know how to.. so i showed him how... but then agian thats a front wheel drive and the 280zx is a rear wheel drive...
Any helpful hints or tricks will help me out greatly.. thanks, ken
when should u change the clutch ?
when should u change the clutch ?
When it needs to be changed, or when it goes bad... Whichever comes first.
Or when it wears out...
Also,
Reverse to first burnouts tend to cause a little premature wear on Clutch components...
When it needs to be changed, or when it goes bad... Whichever comes first.
Or when it wears out...
Also,
Reverse to first burnouts tend to cause a little premature wear on Clutch components...
Last edited by RodMoyes; Nov 16, 2006 at 06:02 PM.
Originally Posted by RodMoyes
Reverse to first burnouts tend to cause a little premature wear on Clutch components... 

If you can change a clutch in a FWD then you can easily change a clutch in a RWD. It's much easier and far less time consuming. You dont have to remove the axles as you do in a FWD for one. If you've got a service manual it will outline how to remove the tranny and change the clutch.
^ What J said, changing a clutch in a rwd I am sure is much easier. I didn't have too many problems, changing the clutch in my Z earlier this year. And it was my first time. I didn't even need a manual to tell me how to do it. I had friends on here, helping me out. And I also just did it mainly blind. I wouldn't be too scared, to change it again. I am sure it wont be anytime soon though. Anyway as much as you have done on your Z's, this should be a piece of cake. But yeah look in your manual if you need to. And good luck man.
Your problem might not be the clutch at all. I would first check the timing over periodic testing. I had this same problem before AND after a tranny rebuild and clutch and pressure plate replacement.
Clutches usually last a LOT longer that 25K miles, if you don't "dog them out". Of all the Z’s I’ve owned since 1994, I've only HAD to replace a clutch once, and that was on Jade, who had 80K miles on her at the time (original factory clutch). I had her tranny rebuilt at 120K miles.
When she reached 180K miles, it felt like her clutch was slipping again, but I wasn’t sure, so I had a mechanic (with 25 years’ experience specializing solely in Z’s) check her out, and he said she needed another tranny rebuild. I didn’t agree, but went ahead and authorized the rebuild. When I got her back – there was absolutely NO change. So, he next installed a 2+2 pressure plate - still NO change. So, he replaced the clutch – still NO change (as you can calculate - that clutch was still good after 100K miles). I had just spent about $2K for repairs that weren’t necessary. So, I took Jade to 3 other mechanics over the next 5 months. She ran just fine at idle, but when shifting, she was over-revving and felt like she was slipping, so all of the mechanics, including me, thought the problem was within the clutch. However, the 4th mechanic finally figured out what it was - the distributor!
Anyway, if you HAVE been “*******” out your clutch, then, yeah, it and/or the pressure plate might be fried, but I would at least rule out the distributor first. Also, based on my previous nightmare, there could be other things causing your problem. If you think about it, if a bad dizzy can make you believe your clutch is slipping, then just think about all of the other components that affect the air/fuel mixture, giving you a false impression that it’s all related to the clutch itself.
Clutches usually last a LOT longer that 25K miles, if you don't "dog them out". Of all the Z’s I’ve owned since 1994, I've only HAD to replace a clutch once, and that was on Jade, who had 80K miles on her at the time (original factory clutch). I had her tranny rebuilt at 120K miles.
When she reached 180K miles, it felt like her clutch was slipping again, but I wasn’t sure, so I had a mechanic (with 25 years’ experience specializing solely in Z’s) check her out, and he said she needed another tranny rebuild. I didn’t agree, but went ahead and authorized the rebuild. When I got her back – there was absolutely NO change. So, he next installed a 2+2 pressure plate - still NO change. So, he replaced the clutch – still NO change (as you can calculate - that clutch was still good after 100K miles). I had just spent about $2K for repairs that weren’t necessary. So, I took Jade to 3 other mechanics over the next 5 months. She ran just fine at idle, but when shifting, she was over-revving and felt like she was slipping, so all of the mechanics, including me, thought the problem was within the clutch. However, the 4th mechanic finally figured out what it was - the distributor!
Anyway, if you HAVE been “*******” out your clutch, then, yeah, it and/or the pressure plate might be fried, but I would at least rule out the distributor first. Also, based on my previous nightmare, there could be other things causing your problem. If you think about it, if a bad dizzy can make you believe your clutch is slipping, then just think about all of the other components that affect the air/fuel mixture, giving you a false impression that it’s all related to the clutch itself.
Last edited by Z Car Barbie; Nov 17, 2006 at 04:55 AM.
yeah.... you may have to change flywheel or get it resurfaced. defintaly replace the throw out bearing cuase my buddies throw out bearing just imploded and took out the flywheel with it... and yeah. you dont have to but i would anyways replace the pressure plate... so basically the whole assembly. but. you might be able to just adjust it for now (if you can on the ZX's i dont know if you can so if not throw out this idea and my bad) and one way to check if the clutch is bad... is go 20 miles an hour in like 4th gear and give it some gas see if the RPM's change a decent amount without increasing speed much. i dont recomend doing this more than the one time and after that very infrequently (when you suspect the clutch bad) becuase when your dumping all that air and fuel into the engine wiht no RPM changes liek there should be... engine not to thrilled.
Originally Posted by Bleach
I wish I knew how to change a FWD clutch
I thought The Bleach knew EVERYTHING! Does the Pulsar need one? It's not too bad... just more busy work.
yes i know how to change out the clutch on a 1994 honda civic 4 door coupe in fact i had to help my friend jason do it 2 times it was a pain in the *** to get the front axels out etc etc etc.. we used a motor cycle or 4 wheeler jack to lift the tranny out and back in... anyways hears what im gonna do im gionna save up 450 dollars and buy the " fidenza light weight flywheel " and buy a stage 2 clutch " i should buy it mid decemeber and hopefully have it installed by myself mid january .. hears my plan on doing the tranny ..
1 unbolt the bolts from the back of the drive shaft to the rear differantal
2 un bolt the tranny mount
3 take off arm rest center all the way up to the radio
4 get jasons 4 wheeler fort lift jack.
5 unbolt tranny bolts
6 slowly move back tranny from bell houseing
7 pull tranny out from underneather the car
8 spary down inside of tranny bell hosueing with degresser etc to clean it
9. inspeck for bad things to come
10 unbolt pressure plate and clutch disk
11. hopefully be able to unbolt flywheel and install light weight flywheel
etc etc etc
any body think of anything else i forgot ?
1 unbolt the bolts from the back of the drive shaft to the rear differantal
2 un bolt the tranny mount
3 take off arm rest center all the way up to the radio
4 get jasons 4 wheeler fort lift jack.
5 unbolt tranny bolts
6 slowly move back tranny from bell houseing
7 pull tranny out from underneather the car
8 spary down inside of tranny bell hosueing with degresser etc to clean it
9. inspeck for bad things to come
10 unbolt pressure plate and clutch disk
11. hopefully be able to unbolt flywheel and install light weight flywheel
etc etc etc
any body think of anything else i forgot ?
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