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Old 06-01-2013, 08:52 PM
  #26  
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Ignition problems

Take off your valve cover with specified directions, turn engine ay crank with a 1.25 inch socket an bring engine to top dead center by specifications. Now look at the timing chain around the cam gear a shiny link on the chain should line up with the indented mark on the cam gear which should say 1 also.And while you're at it look at your distributor rotor it must point to number position on the distributor cap. That is way i would advise you to start. Let me know what you find after doing that. Cheers !
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:04 AM
  #27  
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Merged threads so we don't have to play the guessing game all over again.

I'd say something is still off mechanically.

What was the timing set to before you reset it to 8* ?
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:53 PM
  #28  
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lost feel like giving up.

I set my 280zx na to 10 deg. Its runs horrible back fire, no power, idles good though. It drives better advanced like to 30. I talked to the zdoc and he said. It could be the weights on the dizzy. (Rebuilt one) I just dont know what to do or check anymore any ideas?
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:07 PM
  #29  
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Merged threads, again.

You talked to Zdoc, or Zdon? Did you verify that your timing chain is set correctly?
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:17 PM
  #30  
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I guess I'm doing that tomorrow only way it will run is in 30 degrees. I threw away over 300 bucks trying to figure this out.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:10 AM
  #31  
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Nismo your right I'm off mechanically. I'm on the dot on the cam gear but the mark on the camshaft is off. Would you recomend that I pull the cover off or do the wedge thing?
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:11 AM
  #32  
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This really makes no sense, I aligned it perfectly.
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:28 AM
  #33  
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So it turns out timing was perfect......what happened is the crank chuck key broke and ate away at my crank and harmonic balancer. Explaining the messed up reading on the crank. So what do you guys suggest now? I really don't want to pull this engine out.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:27 PM
  #34  
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Update. The woodruff key failed damaged the slot. I'm going to take timing cover off and try to restore it with jb weld and a dremel. Also buying a new pulley since mine Is chewed up. This big head ache for such a little yet major problem. Is the jb weld a good idea? Should I run it without a key for now?
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:41 PM
  #35  
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timing no vacc advance

Hey guys. New problem my 280zx na. Idles great but....bad miss fire underload. Timing starts to wander. I fixed all the vacc. Leaks new hoses. Its a new dizzy think it could be the problem? It never had this problem. When I put the dizzy in i could advance and retard all the way but then after its warm it starts to get to max out a 10 degrees. Also what's tat sensor by the ect? (Left of it)
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:21 AM
  #36  
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Merged threads AGAIN.

Please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please please stop making a new thread everytime you have a question about the same problem. I hate playing the guessing game of what the problem is and what you've already done. ANY future question / problem you have about your car's timing should be posted HERE.

Originally Posted by aruiz714
Its a new dizzy think it could be the problem?
New as is "brand new from Nissan", or "used, new to you" ? I'm assuming you got a used one since you are doubting it...

Originally Posted by aruiz714
Also what's tat sensor by the ect? (Left of it)
I have no idea what you mean by "ect" (me thinks your phone auto-corrected).
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Old 07-12-2013, 04:30 PM
  #37  
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You only need 87 octane, sometimes higher octane will cause problems.
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