Help Getting the timing down while assembling
#1
Help Getting the timing down while assembling
Okay, I DO have a Haynes and have read all pages on on the engine section searching cover to cover, but I can't find anything on setting the camshaft back to 1. What I mean by that is, I've set the bottom end to TDC, but I need to figure out how to put the new head I bought on with the timing down.
My question is, I took a picture of the head, and I'm wondering if the valves are in the right position, and can I put it on the way it is? I took a picture of the #1 chamber's intake/exhaust valves, and their lobes.
tell me if you need pictures or more information, I'm just sitting here playing solitaire waiting for results...I really can't wait to get this all together tonight!!!
My question is, I took a picture of the head, and I'm wondering if the valves are in the right position, and can I put it on the way it is? I took a picture of the #1 chamber's intake/exhaust valves, and their lobes.
tell me if you need pictures or more information, I'm just sitting here playing solitaire waiting for results...I really can't wait to get this all together tonight!!!
#2
As long as the valves are closed on the cylinders that the piston is at TDC (1 & 6), you are fine. You can set the cam to the correct location by putting on the cam sprocket in #1 location, and set the chain DOT to about 2 o'clock. There's a pic in the Haynes manual of the timing chain markings... I'd tell ya the page but I'm at work & my Haynes manual is not.
EDIT...
Here:
EDIT...
Here:
Last edited by NismoPick; 07-15-2008 at 02:03 PM.
#3
1&6 are at TDC, 1's valves are closed, but 6's exhaust is completely opened. I think that makes since though, because aren't they supposed to be on opposite strokes? well i'm putting it together anyways...
#4
In case you missed it..........
Set the cam, then put the head on.
Originally Posted by NismoPick
You can set the cam to the correct location by putting on the cam sprocket in #1 location, and set the chain DOT to about 2 o'clock.
#7
Originally Posted by NismoPick
It's more likely that the chain is loose.
i know i know go search for it... and i will sometime this week
#8
Originally Posted by 280zx2by2
i think... its simple right... just tighten the tensioner
#9
i did touchey feely thing and it felt good like it wasnt going to fall or slip off(thats why i was thinking it may have the wrong chain)
i hear a clicking sound wich may just be my valves but that dosent explain the scratches(the scrathes arent deep, its just were the chain has rubbed)
i hear a clicking sound wich may just be my valves but that dosent explain the scratches(the scrathes arent deep, its just were the chain has rubbed)
Last edited by 280zx2by2; 07-16-2008 at 10:56 AM.
#12
Alright, I pray to God I did this right. I seriously spent all of last night and this morning for 2 hours cleaning the gasket off the front cover. I didn't scrape off a bit that was bigger than 5 mm, it was the most frustrating thing i've ever done in my life.
But I did what you said, I rotated the camshaft, set it at 1 and put the timing on. The bottom was at TDC when I put the head on. I had the timing wheel from the P90A and it was considerably not on as much on the P90. But I torqued it down to 102 ft/lbs which was WOW. I'm terribly scared that when I start it it's just going to blow up on me. I also included a picture of the water pump i'm reusing if you have any input...but yeah what have i missed?
P.S. i took these pics with my phone. I'm pretty impressed!
But I did what you said, I rotated the camshaft, set it at 1 and put the timing on. The bottom was at TDC when I put the head on. I had the timing wheel from the P90A and it was considerably not on as much on the P90. But I torqued it down to 102 ft/lbs which was WOW. I'm terribly scared that when I start it it's just going to blow up on me. I also included a picture of the water pump i'm reusing if you have any input...but yeah what have i missed?
P.S. i took these pics with my phone. I'm pretty impressed!
#15
Originally Posted by NismoPick
Nice camera phone pics! Though I can't see the "bright" link on the chain that is supposed to line up w/ the cam gear dot. Is it?
#16
Technically it doesn't matter where the bright link is, as long as there are 42 link pins between the crank sprocket marker and cam sprocket marker (I SUGGEST LOOKING AT THE REFERENCE PIC I POSTED ABOVE... STUDY IT FOR A LONG TIME).
Did you pay attention when removing the cam sprocket, to which link was lined up w/ the cam sprocket dot?
Did you pay attention when removing the cam sprocket, to which link was lined up w/ the cam sprocket dot?
#17
yeah i marked them both down when I was removing the cam sprocket. the number 2 and number 3 links I both marked, but since I bought a new head and such all my notes were kind of rendered useless...I'm pretty sure there's 42 link pins between them, because it is as tight as it can go, and the tensioner is in there, I'm 100% of that.
#18
Oky last question I'll ever bug you guys EVER i promise!! Okay I've done everything with the timing belt and the LAST thing I need to know is how the #)($* do I get the distributor and oil pump back on right?!?? I read the haynes and all it says is make sure the punch mark and oil hole are lined up before I install it, but what do I do with the distributor!?!? I've googled it, and read the FSM as well, but I'm stuck. LAst question ever!! How do I get the oil pump and distributor worked out?!?
#19
Read this (yes... it's a 3L stroker, but it talks about putting everything together): http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm
The rotor should be pointing almost exactly straight forward to the front of the car.
The rotor should be pointing almost exactly straight forward to the front of the car.
#20
and the point is between the 2 and 5 spark plugs. is that right? I dont' really understand what that picture means,
"If done correctly the shaft tang should be at the 11:25 position and directed tangent to the backside of the top distributor-adapter mounting bolt. "
does anybody know what that means?
"If done correctly the shaft tang should be at the 11:25 position and directed tangent to the backside of the top distributor-adapter mounting bolt. "
does anybody know what that means?
#22
okay that's that...
how do i match up the distributor side? That's all i need! :-)
while i wait, i'm putting the head bolts on then all i have to do is put everything else on which should be pie.
Last edited by thetremendousti; 07-17-2008 at 09:10 PM.
#23
Okay just a little update for you nismo and anyone else who might ever have this trouble...
In the FSM it shows exactly what position the oil pump shaft should be in and mine was pretty close, i'll probably have some timing issues, but I got the distributor all figured out. Then I torqued in the camshaft, but bent a screwdriver and scored the top of the head :-/....but i think it will be okay. And i just finished putting the oil pan back on so Tomorrow is the left side of the engine and then the adventure of figuring out the harness!!
In the FSM it shows exactly what position the oil pump shaft should be in and mine was pretty close, i'll probably have some timing issues, but I got the distributor all figured out. Then I torqued in the camshaft, but bent a screwdriver and scored the top of the head :-/....but i think it will be okay. And i just finished putting the oil pan back on so Tomorrow is the left side of the engine and then the adventure of figuring out the harness!!
#24
Originally Posted by thetremendousti
In the FSM it shows exactly what position the oil pump shaft should be in and mine was pretty close, i'll probably have some timing issues,
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