gabrielzzz

what do you guys think about this chip? lagit?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...15635102QQrdZ1

Bleach

BS!
all the chip is 'trying' to do is run the engine slighly rich. You don't gain that much power from adding a little fuel. You can make your own adjustment if you really want to. Even put it on a dial for adjustable enrichment on the fly. It won't do much at all for a stock engine.

Also, that is a generic detail listing. It claims the ECU will adjust timing... the 280ZX ecu does not have anything to do with ignition timing. 280ZX Turbo does, but I really doubt that thing is made for a turbo.

NismoPick

https://www.zdriver.com/forum/showth...ighlight=280zx

s/cL3.0

HAHAHA.. funny

gabrielzzz

damn though...if i could just pay 30 bucks for 9-13 hp increase, that would be the life...

Dorifto

^ Then you wouldn't own an '80s sports car!

nismo619

the only thing i can say is buy it an try it .... if it works let us all know.... as far as i know ( the piggy back resistor ) that one doesnt work... PERIOD how do i know ? i tried to install it on my 1993 300zx... did nothing but make the car not start...

NismoPick

uh hum... The only thing I can say is DON'T TRY IT.

If you understand how the 280zx ecu works... then you understand how a "performance speed chip" doesn't work.

D83zxt

BINGO!

We have a WINNER

jfairladyz

Technically thats incorrect. While raising the power of the L28 on the stock ECU isn't exactly easy with electronics, it's definitely do able. You just have to know how. Now 15HP to the wheels just sounds rediculous. But at the least you can optimize performance with only a simple piggy back device. You can't just tell the ECU how much fuel to inject cause the O2 sensor will automatically correct for any changes in A/F ratio. So how do you get around the O2 sensor? Simple. By putting the computer into a loop that doesn't involve the O2 sensor's signal. When your engine is below a certain temperature the ECU does not use the signal coming from the O2 to enrichen the fuel mixture. Instead it relies on signals from the TPS and ATS. It decides how to enrichen the mixture based on air temperature. The answer? Also simple. Trick the ECU into thinking the engine is cold by tapping into the Head Temp Sensor circuit and tweak the signal. Thiw throws it into a closed loop and shuts out the O2 sensor. Then tap into the Air Temperature Sensor signal and trick the ECU into thinking the air is a temperature it's not. So you can manually control enrichement.

Here's the problem with the devices you see on Ebay: One is that they provide no way to moniter the A/F ratio, so unless you've got a dyno there's no way to tell what the optimal setting is. All cars are going to be different. The second problem is that they only interrupt the ATS signal. So alls it's doing is confusing the computer. As soon as the ECU realizes that the mixture is rich (through the O2 sensor) it's going to correct the condition and you end up with a little less money for no more power.

So the theory they use to try to sell these things is correct. But their application of this theory is whats incorrect. I'm not saying buy one of those things off ebay. Please don't. It wont work. I know. If you really want something that works then have a little patience and I'm going to post a write up as soon as I finally finish the one I'm working on. I'm not going to try to sell it or anything but I will share step by step how to build one for only a few bucks including an A/F ratio guage built into it. I would've had it done by now but I had trouble ordering one of the parts I needed and never got around to ordering it again after the problem was resolved. Just got side tracked. I'll let you guys know when I'm finished though.

lww

I smell another sticky in the works...

Speed

Donna,

RoadsterX and I are still waiting for our X-mas cookies!

Speed

NismoPick

WTF?????????????????????????

PooFlinginMonke

Isn't timing also affected by whether it's in open or closed loop?

jfairladyz

I'm sure on the turbo models it is. Timing on the Non Turbo's wouldn't be affected though.

EatmyDust

well the car dosn't dump as much fuel in closed loop as it dose in open. when the car is open loop its ether cold, or wot, or damn near close. but norm driving conditions closed loop when the car has warmed up and it can make the right desision on how much fuel the try to dump in with the air density and temp, and engine temp. because everyone know volitility is also afected by temp, among other conditions.

jfairladyz

the reason that is is because the engine only relies on the O2 sensor when it is in closed loop. During open loop it relies on set sensor input parameters rather then the variable input of the O2. Because of that fact you can manipulate the engine while in open loop. Thats how those little devices work. Ideally, it would have two resistors (or pots). One would be inline with the cylinder head temp sensor. By adding resistance here you can trick the ECU into open loop so it can't correct for extra fuel. Then you'll put a resistor or pot inline with the air temp sensor to trick the ECU into thinking the air is cooler (more dense). When the ECU sees this it enrichens the fuel based on the signal from the ATS.

Do those devices work??? yes, as long as they modify BOTH of those signals. Do they add 20 HP to the wheels??? Not likely. The problem lies in the fact that these things aren't going to add any power to a cold car on a cold day. But once the car is warmed up the device can be used to manipulate the ECU a very tiny bit. So in reality, you're simply playing catch up to get back to that power level you would have on a cool morning.

EatmyDust

well not all of us z goo roos have cali modle budy. My car dosn't have the o2, or smog crap on it, so I am a little more free to have fun with my elects.

jfairladyz

good point ^^ So you don't even have to worry about what mode the ECU is in. You can just tweak the resistor signals to get the fuel enrichment you want.

But you're still limited by the fact that the car will only put in as much fuel as it THINKS the sensors are telling it to put in. So again, you're not really gaining any horespower, just making up for what the heat is taking away. It's simply a means to fine tune a little fuel enrichment. With more fuel, you can get away with more timing which will give you more power (to an extent). So while the module itself only adds a negligable amount of power, it helps in adding power through other sources.

I still have the signal interrupter I made for my NA, and once I verify that my turbo has no hiccups, I'm going to wire it into my turbo. As we all know, more fuel in a turbo is a good thing And I'm sure we've all felt the power difference when driving in the morning as oppposed to the afternoon. I like the morning feeling. Thats what those boxes give you.

EatmyDust

Oh yea I am all in with what you have been saying the hole time brow. you have always been right on the money. I understand this stuff somwhat pretty good to, maybe not as well as you, but still prety damn good.