280zx rpm problem when he's cold
#1
280zx rpm problem when he's cold
When I start my car, when he stands cold, he make's 800 rpm and he runs rough.
Normaly 1200 rpm is necessary (for an automatic)
My fuel injectors are new, also my cold start injector, my fuel pressure and the heat sensor are new.
So I don't now where I must search the problem.
I also must tell that when the engine runs for 2 minuts I have no problems anymore.
Also not problems with accelleration. Everything going fine.
So, have anyone a solution?
Normaly 1200 rpm is necessary (for an automatic)
My fuel injectors are new, also my cold start injector, my fuel pressure and the heat sensor are new.
So I don't now where I must search the problem.
I also must tell that when the engine runs for 2 minuts I have no problems anymore.
Also not problems with accelleration. Everything going fine.
So, have anyone a solution?
#3
its actually quite a common problem on these, if you can live with it dont worry. id check the air bypass valve. also if you turn on the a/c does the idle bump up, its the easy way to check that vlave.
#4
i am pretty sure its the Air Regulator aka Air Bypass aka Auxillary Air Valve.
both of my nissan/datsun cars had this issue the main fix is replacing it and its about $60 to $80 but you might be able to get away with fixing it, i managed to fix mine as they were full of crap. i would hit it with the handle of a screw driver while it was on the car and if the idle improved then i knew it was just stuck. on a couple of other cars it wound up being the timing was off or there was a leak in the vaccum system.
if you hit the valve with a screw driver and it changes the idle you can either take it off plug one end and spray carb or brake cleaner into it and shake it arround and just get as much junk out of it and then spray some WD-40 in it to keep it fromgetin stuck again or you can follow this method but its a little more involved.
its on a VG30E but its the same part the air just goes in a different direction (90 degree angle) as opposed to straight through:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/309614
i would be supprise if you come to acually doing this in the link, the air valve on the inline 6's doesent seem to get bad like they do on the V6's but i have herd that some times it happens and they usually wind up doing something similar to this
both of my nissan/datsun cars had this issue the main fix is replacing it and its about $60 to $80 but you might be able to get away with fixing it, i managed to fix mine as they were full of crap. i would hit it with the handle of a screw driver while it was on the car and if the idle improved then i knew it was just stuck. on a couple of other cars it wound up being the timing was off or there was a leak in the vaccum system.
if you hit the valve with a screw driver and it changes the idle you can either take it off plug one end and spray carb or brake cleaner into it and shake it arround and just get as much junk out of it and then spray some WD-40 in it to keep it fromgetin stuck again or you can follow this method but its a little more involved.
its on a VG30E but its the same part the air just goes in a different direction (90 degree angle) as opposed to straight through:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/309614
i would be supprise if you come to acually doing this in the link, the air valve on the inline 6's doesent seem to get bad like they do on the V6's but i have herd that some times it happens and they usually wind up doing something similar to this
#5
Hello,
Problem is fixed. You're wright, it was the air regulator .
The true is: first thing I've done is searching: what's an air regulator.
I replaced an other one and....all is going perfect.
So thanks for the help everyone
Problem is fixed. You're wright, it was the air regulator .
The true is: first thing I've done is searching: what's an air regulator.
I replaced an other one and....all is going perfect.
So thanks for the help everyone
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