ANDREW280

OK well i think i found the problem.. it seems the parts guy has sold us the wrong sensor it was some aftermarket one and the part number said it was for an opel plus the box had been opened before we got it so i think this is causing the problems that we are having.

ANDREW280

Got the right chts and the car runs without flooding now but it will not idle above 350 rpm runs good when gas pedal is lightly pressed checked timing all is good there just wont idle any ideas?

snwbrderphat540

raise the idle... lol should be easy to do. isnt there a set screw on the throttle body to raise the idle by opening the butterfly valve every so minutely?

JSM

^^^^^What he said!

ANDREW280

the idle can be adjusted but it is pre set from the factory and has never been touched thats why i didn't do it simply because it would just mask the real problem. could it be the aac or the air reg?

NismoPick

What's the timing set to?
Have you "adjusted" "changed" or "modified" anything else during this whole process of elimination?

ANDREW280

Timing is set to 23 deg and no nothing has been changed or adjusted just been sitting for 10 years after the head gasket was replaced . it runs good if i feather the peddle but it wont idle it will just stall out if i touch the afm a bit it will run a bit better but im pretty confident the afm has nothing to do with it. Could the aac valve be causing problems? also we noticed the aac valve can be adjusted?

FricFrac

Runs good when the pedal is lightly pressed? Is your TPS adjusted properly?

ANDREW280

I suppose anything is possible my dad could have messed with it when he took the head off but he says he didnt because there was no need to.

FricFrac

Regardless did you ever set up the TPS? It would probably be a good idea to go through the EFEC section of the FSM and test and set everything up properly....

NismoPick

What's the RPM's at when you bump the throttle (pedal) up?

If it's not installed (aka using a block off plate instead), it will cause idle problems. The AAC is not adjustable. It's either closed or open.

ANDREW280

it idles at like 400 rpm also for the airflow meter test it says i should be getting between 280 and 400 ohms im getting 200, is this a problem? And i thought the aac valve was adjustable because of the rubber plug on the side and under that is an allen bolt.

snwbrderphat540

500-700 is a ok idle if it doesn't die or bog.

ANDREW280

its must be lower then its hard to tell because it idles so erratic it just wants to stall its definitely running rich because sometimes it backfires through the AFM and kicks the flap closed i tried to take a vacuum reading but i couldn't keep it running so i had to feather the peddle which would not give me a proper reading its was only like 5 inHg. We also took the AFM apart and there was groves in the trace pad so we moved the board so it had a fresh surface. Just a thought we have had the injectors cleaned and installed new seals they dont feel as tight as thought they should be seals part numbers are correct.

zero

199 and 200 ohms is normal for a good working turbo AFM. The FSM is wrong. The only way to test it is with voltage applied, or borrow a friends car to load test it. Found this out the hard way. Detailed testing of several turbo AFMs can be found in a thread at zcar.com called- Never ending problem. Turbo car like yours. Nobody can fix it. I gave up. 3 ASE certified mechanics have had it 2 weeks. Still a mystery. The problem is the ECCS. 30 year old EFI, realisticly its a total loss. I was thinking impossible- if say this EFI was from the 1950s...would I be patching it up? No!!! 1950/1980 both are too far from 2012. Ten years from now nobody is going to be playing humpty dumpty with a 1982 ECCS. After a certain point/age its just more logical to replace it. We are at that point now, its just not widely realized. Plastics that crumble in your hand, corrosion everywhere, everything comes to an end. Today a lot of z cars are a total loss when it comes to the stock engine management. The guys running SUs are busy driving their cars while the EFI/ECCS guys post their problems and stare at a car that used to run good. If you get rid of the Flintstone ECCS and use an aftermarket engine management you will have less problems and a lot more drive time. If you install megasquirt you didnt whimp out, you fixed the problem. So ask yourself, Do you want the best of 1982 tech that has deteriorated over 30 years? Or do you want 2012 and all new materials? How far will Grandma Z run if we keep picking her up??? Lets ask Mr. Owl.

budmister

Andrew280, What was the final outcome, are you still working with the stock ECCS on your Turbo. I am new to the forum, and your symptoms match mine. I have a junkyard find that I am trying to get the idle running smoothly, maybe we can compare notes.