Eliminate vacuum hoses and clean-up the intake manifold
03-27-2007, 11:06 AM
#26
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 5,485
Originally Posted by Heat Rave R
I suspect though that the construction of silicone hoses vary. So that like the silicone radiator hoses must be especially thickened, reinforced, or chemically different to take it. After all, you guys will notice that certain hoses, like oil and fuel lines, have some kind of nylon reinforcements running the length of the hoses.
The hoses that come in the typical silicone hose kit look like they don't have thick enough walls to withstand fluid pressures; the ones I got are thinner than some of the rubber hoses they replace, such that the original spring clamps won't fit on them. But, like I said, I was just concerned whether the warning on all the packages is due to chemical reaction issues (ie if fuel or whatever eats away at silicone) or just burst/fluid pressure reasons.
The hoses that come in the typical silicone hose kit look like they don't have thick enough walls to withstand fluid pressures; the ones I got are thinner than some of the rubber hoses they replace, such that the original spring clamps won't fit on them. But, like I said, I was just concerned whether the warning on all the packages is due to chemical reaction issues (ie if fuel or whatever eats away at silicone) or just burst/fluid pressure reasons.
Just like anything else you put on your car, dont jump on the cheapest silicone hoses you can find because they are NOT all created equal.
03-28-2007, 02:19 AM
#27
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
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You think a silicone hose to replace the rubber hose that goes from the manifold to the brake master cylinder is fine? What are the symptoms if it's not?
03-28-2007, 12:25 PM
#28
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Location: Temecula, CA
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If its designed to withstand vacuum without collapsing then it would be fine. If its not than you'll notice the brakes get really tough to press if/when the hose collapses because you'll lose the power assist of the brake booster.
10-26-2007, 10:23 PM
#29
You don't have to remove all the hoses to "clean up the engine bay." Why not paint / powder coat parts and organize the hoses by strapping them together & tying them down w/ zip ties? That would look better than just stripping everything out of the bay. Removing all the hoses & vac ports on a turbo can be a headache if you don't know what you are doing.
12-18-2007, 07:52 PM
#30
eff good grammar
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Deadford OR
Posts: 1,578
i was looking at this, my EGR valve makes a big difference on my cars performance and on the 79 it hookes into that funky other thing. if i clean the vaccume lines up going this route but i want to keep AAV and EGR they just need to be hooked up the a vaccume source some where on the intake right?
also is it going to affect much of any thing if i do away with the funky valve thing the EGR is plugged into?
also is it going to affect much of any thing if i do away with the funky valve thing the EGR is plugged into?
11-29-2008, 10:55 PM
#31
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 105
i did this to mine this weekend, i have a few questions
1. there are 3 vac lines going to a part next to the top cooling hose. one line goes to the TB, one to a T fitting that goes to the TB and Distributor and the last line going to the intake hose after the MAS. what is this part and do all these lines need to be hooked up? If i swap out the 240sx TB to i still hook them up?
2. there are 3 VAC lines on the TB, 2 mentioned above and one going to the canister. do i need to have all these hooked up? what happens if i swap out the TB with a 240
3. Which 240TB is the best to get?
1. there are 3 vac lines going to a part next to the top cooling hose. one line goes to the TB, one to a T fitting that goes to the TB and Distributor and the last line going to the intake hose after the MAS. what is this part and do all these lines need to be hooked up? If i swap out the 240sx TB to i still hook them up?
2. there are 3 VAC lines on the TB, 2 mentioned above and one going to the canister. do i need to have all these hooked up? what happens if i swap out the TB with a 240
3. Which 240TB is the best to get?
11-30-2008, 10:59 AM
#32
Originally Posted by gostlrs
1. there are 3 vac lines going to a part next to the top cooling hose. one line goes to the TB, one to a T fitting that goes to the TB and Distributor and the last line going to the intake hose after the MAS. what is this part and do all these lines need to be hooked up? If i swap out the 240sx TB to i still hook them up?
Originally Posted by gostlrs
do i need to have all these hooked up? what happens if i swap out the TB with a 240
Originally Posted by gostlrs
3. Which 240TB is the best to get?
11-30-2008, 08:34 PM
#33
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 105
i have no idea what it is called. i think it is a vacuum switch. it is right next to the temp switch
so if you swap out the throttle body, what TPS do you use and i am guessing that you cap off all the lines that went to the origional TB?
so if you swap out the throttle body, what TPS do you use and i am guessing that you cap off all the lines that went to the origional TB?
12-06-2008, 11:44 AM
#34
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Location: Southaven Mississippi
Posts: 2,053
you use the factory one. just remount it with some kind of plate. i think(correct me if i'm wrong) the 240sx TPS only works with the turbo models. I just made a plate fro mine. and mounted it up.
12-06-2008, 11:58 AM
#35
I found fuel rails, http://www.rossmachineracing.com/
The main rail already comes drilled, you just have top drill and tap the holes for your fuel injectors and its cheaper than pallnets. Besides you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
The main rail already comes drilled, you just have top drill and tap the holes for your fuel injectors and its cheaper than pallnets. Besides you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Last edited by straight hate; 03-11-2009 at 09:47 AM.
12-06-2008, 12:10 PM
#36
Use the term "60mm TB" instead of "240". You can get one from an SR20DE that already has the ball linkage, or from a KA24E / KA24DE which you will have to do some heavy work to get the ball linkage to work. You will also need a 1" spacer unless you want to use a cable throttle.[/QUOTE]
I used the TB from a 94 Altima KA24E. I had to space it with a piece of 3/16 steel between the TB and intake (N42 was not a direct fit)and used the linkage from a old ASCD for the throttle cable. Nismo's right though its a lot of work. But it looks klean!
I used the TB from a 94 Altima KA24E. I had to space it with a piece of 3/16 steel between the TB and intake (N42 was not a direct fit)and used the linkage from a old ASCD for the throttle cable. Nismo's right though its a lot of work. But it looks klean!
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