timing chain won't fit

WHAT A DAY! #$%@
[fun in 93F driveway & 93 humidity]
ARP studs in.
Head on [by myself] #$%@
torqed dn to 60FP
learned springs have a up/down.
check and find 4 are upside down. #$%@
remove rockers and collets.#$%@
valve slides into head. #$%@
remove head.#$%@
R&R 4 of the springs.
install colletts & rockers. #$%@
torqed dn.#$%@
put the chain back on the sprocket and needed 1/8"
more lift to put the sprocket on the shaft. I removed the wedge
[with some difficulty] and lowered the chain slightly, perhaps 1/8",
and heard a plastic click. "oh no!" #$%@
remove sproket
shine a lite down there
blk plastic tensioner is poped to the left side,
push tensioner back in.with screwdriver
wrestle sproket back on. #$%@
1/8" lower than cam
While messing with it the tensioner pops 3 more times #$%@ #$%@ #$%@
I put it back but the chain has slipped on the crank. I hear/feel it slip and the #1 hole will not line up with the cam peg. [I had the sprocket and chain marked. The cam is TDC #1.]
so I rotate the sprocket on the chain so peg matches #1 hole.
The sprocket is still 1/8" lower #$%@
I put a screwdriver thru a sprocket hole and put a wooden wedge under it. By driving the wedge with a hammer I can lift the sproket upwards. I am concerned about breakage.

Is it low because the tensioner still out of place?

Is it ok to continue wedging the sprocket & stretching the chain?

 

I didn't read through your whole series of events, but I found myself removing and re-installing a the head on my z one time. When I loosed the cam sprocket and kept it suspended above the front cover with a wooden wedge, naturally, the tensioner pulled the slack out of the chain. When i torqued the head down, the chain was obviously too tight, so I stuck a long rod down in the front cover and put pressure on the tensioner to allow more slack in the chain. It worked immediately and I had my friend put the sprocket back on while I kept pressure on the tensioner.