than you should never touch a tool or a car again. stop being a chicken and learn something. think i was just born with knowledge and spoon fed all the procedures to fix my car? no i did research asked a few questions on here and did it myself. wanna know what help i had for my turbo swap. a few questions on here of what is different from a NA and turbo 280ZX motors (electronics wise) a couple diagrams and a hand with lowering the motor into the car. after that, i was on my own in my garage in the middle of winter.

 

are you serious? and im not afraid to take it apart but it's the putting back together part that worries me the most i just don't want a taken apart carbeurator in my girlfriends garage you know?

 

dead serious. thats it. and it worked first try. however i solder like **** so i had to eventually go back over and re-do all my connections i made and re-adjust the timing. ECU then went out on me had to trouble shoot that. but the point is, i did the swap right. honestly, im SURE there is a write-up on one of the big 4 Z sites on re-building carbs.

 

which 4 are there other than this one and hybrid z and z car?

 

hybridz.org

classiczcars.com

zcar.com

atlanticz.ca

 

ohh ok i'll check em out

 

as a matter of fact, just cause im so super cool, ill spoon feed yah this one jerk-face

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/carbs/index.htm

 

for some reason i just cant bring myself to go through with it, yes another 240 would be VERY nice right now, but i just need another daily driveable car in exchange, or just plain cashish.

 

THANK YOU SNW!!!
so then would you do the whole loan thingy for the full ammount?

 

if you gave me a reasonable amount of a down payment.

 

how much would that be?

 

ill let you know by Wednesday..

 

ok, now that i have been burned once again. as for the DP, just give me what you can spare and i will wright a new contract when i wake up tomorrow, but good news is, is that i will be in apple valley picking up another car, so for like an extra $50 i can drop it off for you.

 

can you wait till friday when i get my paycheck?

 

ok i know it's a dead thread but could holes in my fuel lines cause my car to hesitate when i push the gas?(cause i found all my hoses in the hatch are rotted away) im thinking that it's not my carbs but my fuel lines any advice?

 

probably not. could be that you are too lean.

 

im going to adjust that after i put in the new fuel lines(payday tomorrow woot!!)
and after i get it running i'll adjust the carbs. how do i adjust the carbs to run just right? isn't it a screw?

 

yea, a big screw on the bottom on most SU's. maybe all of them. if they are lean now, turn it counter-clockwise one flat. try it again. get the highest idle possible. i'm drunk. just look up a web page of directions on google. there are tons. maybe a british car page

 

is that how to sync them? have a beer for me to ok?

 

oh man i will. but no. you have to het a flow meter to make sure the same amount of air is goin through each. watching your plugs is the overall best way to check the mixture.
i think

 

ok thanks i'll get it done sunday

 

Buy one of these: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/TE/60-9976

 

the zstore also sells a cheaper one. Since its the first one of these i've ever used i don't have much bad to say about but i will say that the cheap one is Really touchy. You gotta make sure its just right or you get a bad reading.

 

The balance only has to be close by eye. The balance tube that runs from one manifold to the other evens out the air flow. If you equally set the butterfly valves at half open with the engine off that will be close enough. The important thing is that the chokes close off completely when the lever is pushed forward. Then start the engine (warm up), turn the mixture thum screw on the bottom of the carb in slowly until it starts to stumble. Back out until it smoothes out. Do the same for the other carb then repeat this again. If this doesn't help, consider a rebuild or at least disassemble and clean.
If you live at or close to sea level you can set the front carb to open slightly after the rear one. You can use lighter oil in the domes 10wt and they will open faster on full throttle. These are more advanced settings that require some experimenting.

 

domes are technically referred to as "dash pots"
i use the 3-in-1 muti use oil. i think its a bit lighter then 10. well, i did use it til i got a WEBER!!!!
good luck wit it!
and i hate to step on your toes, but companies sell those flow meters for a reason. the same one that all good classic car shops use them... for tuning carbs, its always better to remove as many variables as possible. little errors in the snycronization can be a variable that makes it hard to get a good fine tuning. granted, it can be done by eye, but using a flow meter sure is a more accurate way