buying first Z, advice plz..
hi, im planning on buying my first Z car..(looking for a 70-72 i think).
any advice on what to look for is very well appreciated. And, do the automatic models really suck (can the engine be built up w/ an auto, are there aftermarket converters, are the automatics beefy)? thanx. |
Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
its been said a million times before, but i will say it again. Get a car that is rust free, mechanicals come second. It is a lot easier to fix mechanical problems than rust etc.
Alan, Australia |
Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
First a generalisation: for track racing the auto's suck (all auto's, all cars - not including semi-auto's).
But my '73 came out the factory as an auto & that's the way it's gonna stay, even with the 400+ HP L31ETT. The 3N71B gearbox has been used by most Japanese manufacturers throughout the 70's & 80's. They can be built very tough (well tough enough for a 'L' block anyway). I have a built up 3N71B & a 4N71B both with kevlar clutches, modified valve-body & higher stall (mid 2000's). I have been using the 3-speed for nearly 4-years with 2 different turbo Datsuns & the only problem I've had is blowing up vacuum modulators (literally). I have solved this problem by bleeding off the vacuum line & adding a check-valve & restriction to prevent it from becoming too pressurised under boost. The way I feel, is that it's nice to have an auto daily driver & a manual weekend-warrior, especially if you have to contend with peak-hour traffic. As Alan said (he's learned quickly - only owned a Z for about a month...) get a good shell - there isn't enough money in your bank-balance to buy all the nice aftermarket bits that are available for the Z series. But it's much more fun saving for them than fixing rust. JMHO Ben Adelaide, South Australia |
Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
Hi
I totally agree with Alan. There are some very common places where the early zeds will rust. -The lower "dog leg" behind the doors. -the area under the battery tray -floors of course -the areas around and under the rubber window seals -of course the wheel well flanges I am sure that there are some areas I am forgetting, so I hope some one else can add there own input. Good luck Oh yeah, buy the best example you can afford it will save you money in the long run. |
Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
although i have nothing to compare it to, the 240 is definately the best in my opinion (looks wise)
Alan, Australia |
Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
Hey Ben; Am I reading that right? You have a 3.1 stroker twin turbo L-series motor? If so that's one hell of a motor!
Joey 1976 280Z 2+2 2+2s are not ugly |
Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
I agree with Ben the automatics suck. I owned a 240 with a automatic. Did not enjoy it as much as I would've if it was a manual transmission. If you are going to keep it stock go for the stick. If you are looking to pump it up then a auto is ok I guess.
Happy hunting for your Z! Warren |
Re: buying first Z, advice plz..
I just got my 280 for 400 bucks.. It's quite ugly right now, but the body and frame and engine are sound. The only rust spot [ew!] was in the spare wheel-well. Rusted clean through. It's fixed now though. Time to do the interior!
never jump into a pile of leaves with a wet sucker |
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:04 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands