240Z, 260Z, 280Z Performance / Technical Discussions related to performance motor enhancements, upgrades.

Starting on the Bushings

Old Aug 9, 2007 | 08:08 AM
  #1  
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Starting on the Bushings

Hey all,

I am going to start putting the bushings on my Z tonight. Starting with rear passenger.

What should I look for? Is there anything that will make this easier.

Eric
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 11:07 AM
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You're replacing all bushings? The control arm bushings are the only difficult ones. The rest just swap over. Some of them might need a lil compression to get the nut back on.
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Texizgreat
Hey all,
Is there anything that will make this easier.
proper lubrication (beer) .

edit: 4k posts!! yay for me.

Last edited by entropy31; Aug 9, 2007 at 11:45 AM.
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 11:22 AM
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The rear controler arm is what i am going to start with. I dont think it has any bushings any longer. Just bought an air compressor last night in the hopes it will help.

Eric
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 11:48 AM
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What size air compressor?
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by NismoPick
What size air compressor?

15 gal
2.5 HP
5.3 cfs at 40 psi
4.1 cfs at 90psi
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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compressors are a nice too to have. the bigger capacity the better, so its not always having to run.
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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I've done this and on a scale of 1-10 it's a 8. The problem is rusted bolts. The spindle pin is locked in with special lock studs. They have a wedge that is drawn up to lock the spindle pins in place. Lots of penitrant the day before helps a lot. Back the nut off to just above the first thread and tap it with a soft hammer. If it doesn't come out in tact you can get new ones from MSA.
Pull the strut and a arm assembly out. Loosen the spindle pin nuts and drive them out. Note the position of the flats, they go toward the front and clocked to the lockpin position. You will have to cut out the old bushings. I did it by sliding a hacksaw blade through and put it back in the hacksaw frame. Don't try to press them out, you will bend the a frame. If you ar installing uretane bushing make sure you grease them with the lube they come with. Hope I didn't leave anything out.
NOW you can have a beer! In fact if you do this in one evening I'll send you a case!
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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great you make it sound like loads of fun
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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get a torch to burn some bushings out. getting the spindle pin is going to be a bitch but can be done. made a puller from a bar and nut with one side right thread and other left thread. i forgot the pitch of the spindle pin. here are some pics of what the puller looked like


FIRE


o yea get some pb blaster and make sure you use bushing lub

Last edited by 260zturbo; Aug 9, 2007 at 02:11 PM.
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 02:27 PM
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The part i really need to get to is the part closest to the white tire... That part has no bushing from what i can see under the car.
Old Aug 10, 2007 | 06:23 AM
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OK was not able to to a whole hell of a lot.

1. lack of correct tools...
need deep socket set... and wrench for what has to be a 26mm bolt.
2. It is F..Ing hot in south texas
3. i heard the call of the NFL
Old Aug 11, 2007 | 02:45 PM
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Ok one side mostly done...(rear-passenger side)

Got the tools and was able to get alot done.

THE KNOCKING AND BANGING IS 90% GONE woo hooo
Old Aug 13, 2007 | 09:38 AM
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Finished both sides of the rear controler arm bushings and sway bar...

Has any one else replaced sway bar bushings? If so did you have a hard time getting that flap back over the new bushings and bar?



i am glad to say that i have to hit a good bump to make any noise out of the rear end.

The bushings that I did not attempt to replace were the ones near the Drums. They look bad but I will have to wait till this weekend.
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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Yes, I had a lot of trouble getting the swaybar/unibody mounts (plates + bolts) back in place. I had to use a jack, channel-locks, etc. to slowly force it back into place and hold it while I got the bolts in. Funny, because on removal it had so much play it was as easy as putting Legos together. I also found it to be simpler to have at least some of the weight of the car back on the wheels to adjust the angle with the control arms, and keep the end links somewhat loose, to get it to line up as much as possible before forcing/clamping it the rest of the way in.

For the outer control arm bushings (the ones near the drums), the earlier post from 260zturbo about burning out the bushings is 100% correct in my experience. Then I had to relief-cut the last sleeve of the bushing. And I couldn't have done any of that without Darrel's spindle pin puller (nice similar tool shown in earlier post 260Zturbo's post, too).

Dave
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 03:04 PM
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darrels pin puller is great, but i think its a little over priced >_< i try not to be cheap but when i can build or know someone who can do it for cheaper im all game. yea u will have to cut the sleeves out. i also got a chizzle set. chizzled the part i cuted. once u get the lip bent down all around one side i fitted a socket in it i forgot the size. nice squeeze. then just hamered the socket . its a workout but worth it. for the spindles i soaked them in pb blaster while i had tension on the puller. i had to get the puller as tight was i could throw some pb on and let it sit. then after a drink i went back to it.
Old Aug 17, 2007 | 11:40 AM
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Just got done with the front sway bar bushings.... Much easier than the rear.

Bout to take her out....
Old Sep 9, 2007 | 09:23 AM
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Will start Rack and Pin bushings Friday... any thoughs...
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