Starting on the Bushings
#1
Starting on the Bushings
Hey all,
I am going to start putting the bushings on my Z tonight. Starting with rear passenger.
What should I look for? Is there anything that will make this easier.
Eric
I am going to start putting the bushings on my Z tonight. Starting with rear passenger.
What should I look for? Is there anything that will make this easier.
Eric
#8
I've done this and on a scale of 1-10 it's a 8. The problem is rusted bolts. The spindle pin is locked in with special lock studs. They have a wedge that is drawn up to lock the spindle pins in place. Lots of penitrant the day before helps a lot. Back the nut off to just above the first thread and tap it with a soft hammer. If it doesn't come out in tact you can get new ones from MSA.
Pull the strut and a arm assembly out. Loosen the spindle pin nuts and drive them out. Note the position of the flats, they go toward the front and clocked to the lockpin position. You will have to cut out the old bushings. I did it by sliding a hacksaw blade through and put it back in the hacksaw frame. Don't try to press them out, you will bend the a frame. If you ar installing uretane bushing make sure you grease them with the lube they come with. Hope I didn't leave anything out.
NOW you can have a beer! In fact if you do this in one evening I'll send you a case!
Pull the strut and a arm assembly out. Loosen the spindle pin nuts and drive them out. Note the position of the flats, they go toward the front and clocked to the lockpin position. You will have to cut out the old bushings. I did it by sliding a hacksaw blade through and put it back in the hacksaw frame. Don't try to press them out, you will bend the a frame. If you ar installing uretane bushing make sure you grease them with the lube they come with. Hope I didn't leave anything out.
NOW you can have a beer! In fact if you do this in one evening I'll send you a case!
#10
get a torch to burn some bushings out. getting the spindle pin is going to be a bitch but can be done. made a puller from a bar and nut with one side right thread and other left thread. i forgot the pitch of the spindle pin. here are some pics of what the puller looked like
FIRE
o yea get some pb blaster and make sure you use bushing lub
FIRE
o yea get some pb blaster and make sure you use bushing lub
Last edited by 260zturbo; 08-09-2007 at 02:11 PM.
#12
OK was not able to to a whole hell of a lot.
1. lack of correct tools...
need deep socket set... and wrench for what has to be a 26mm bolt.
2. It is F..Ing hot in south texas
3. i heard the call of the NFL
1. lack of correct tools...
need deep socket set... and wrench for what has to be a 26mm bolt.
2. It is F..Ing hot in south texas
3. i heard the call of the NFL
#14
Finished both sides of the rear controler arm bushings and sway bar...
Has any one else replaced sway bar bushings? If so did you have a hard time getting that flap back over the new bushings and bar?
i am glad to say that i have to hit a good bump to make any noise out of the rear end.
The bushings that I did not attempt to replace were the ones near the Drums. They look bad but I will have to wait till this weekend.
Has any one else replaced sway bar bushings? If so did you have a hard time getting that flap back over the new bushings and bar?
i am glad to say that i have to hit a good bump to make any noise out of the rear end.
The bushings that I did not attempt to replace were the ones near the Drums. They look bad but I will have to wait till this weekend.
#15
Yes, I had a lot of trouble getting the swaybar/unibody mounts (plates + bolts) back in place. I had to use a jack, channel-locks, etc. to slowly force it back into place and hold it while I got the bolts in. Funny, because on removal it had so much play it was as easy as putting Legos together. I also found it to be simpler to have at least some of the weight of the car back on the wheels to adjust the angle with the control arms, and keep the end links somewhat loose, to get it to line up as much as possible before forcing/clamping it the rest of the way in.
For the outer control arm bushings (the ones near the drums), the earlier post from 260zturbo about burning out the bushings is 100% correct in my experience. Then I had to relief-cut the last sleeve of the bushing. And I couldn't have done any of that without Darrel's spindle pin puller (nice similar tool shown in earlier post 260Zturbo's post, too).
Dave
For the outer control arm bushings (the ones near the drums), the earlier post from 260zturbo about burning out the bushings is 100% correct in my experience. Then I had to relief-cut the last sleeve of the bushing. And I couldn't have done any of that without Darrel's spindle pin puller (nice similar tool shown in earlier post 260Zturbo's post, too).
Dave
#16
darrels pin puller is great, but i think its a little over priced >_< i try not to be cheap but when i can build or know someone who can do it for cheaper im all game. yea u will have to cut the sleeves out. i also got a chizzle set. chizzled the part i cuted. once u get the lip bent down all around one side i fitted a socket in it i forgot the size. nice squeeze. then just hamered the socket . its a workout but worth it. for the spindles i soaked them in pb blaster while i had tension on the puller. i had to get the puller as tight was i could throw some pb on and let it sit. then after a drink i went back to it.
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