240Z, 260Z, 280Z Performance / Technical Discussions related to performance motor enhancements, upgrades.

SR20 or RB20 motor, confused to [email protected]#

Old 11-07-2007, 07:06 PM
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SR20 or RB20 motor, confused to [email protected]#

So my friend got it in my head to do a RB20DET swap. So I spent the majority of the day searching here and hybridz to find answers.

Here is the pro's and con's I found while reading.

RB20DET

PRO's - reliable, nice sound, lots of power/torque, inline 6 in a true inline car. etc.

CON's - older,price, availability of parts, installation, fabrication of other parts needed


SR20DET

PRO's - very common, much cheaper, better on gas, many available mods and services

CON's - not a 6, low torque, engine is too small for the car, doesn't sound good, not as reliable as RB20


Here is where I am confused as heck. Some forums tell me either swap can be done for under $3000, others say $10,000. The SR drops right in, and RB will drop right in with the skyline mounts. I also heard both can are hard to install and are not worth it... go right to the RB25/26. I also heard the SR could bolt up to my 280zx tranny, other sites say you need a different tranny.

I searched the sites, and im even more confused than before! My goal is to choose the motor that will cost me less to buy and install, but can get me 260-320hp. From what I have seen on youtube and street fire I love the sound of the RB20, but I would take the SR20 if I could save $3000.

I just need a little clarity on this subject. If someone has a GOOD link to a website that will tell ACCURATE information. Or someone who has done it, please let me know what the better choice is.
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Old 11-07-2007, 07:11 PM
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anything 20 is a waste of time.
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Old 11-07-2007, 07:12 PM
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anything short of a 25 is a waste of time unless its built..
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Old 11-07-2007, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Black260z
RB20DET

PRO's - reliable, nice sound, lots of power/torque, inline 6 in a true inline car. etc.

CON's - older,price, availability of parts, installation, fabrication of other parts needed


SR20DET

PRO's - very common, much cheaper, better on gas, many available mods and services

CON's - not a 6, low torque, engine is too small for the car, doesn't sound good, not as reliable as RB20

Why are you only considering these two motors?
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Old 11-07-2007, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by entropy31
anything 20 is a waste of time.
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Old 11-07-2007, 08:27 PM
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you got triples dude... if you are gonna drop money build a stroker motor on your triples and you'll be able to put down over 200 at the wheels. RB20's are crap. SR's are good, but you got a great car. your friend is a retard.
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Old 11-07-2007, 08:38 PM
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i think this new z has changed snw.......could it be little snw is growing up? im so proud of you....lol just messing with ya snw.
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Old 11-07-2007, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
and you'll be able to put down over 200 at the wheels.
thats it 200WHP? come on your goals have to be higher then that if you want a fast car.
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Old 11-07-2007, 10:16 PM
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Old 11-07-2007, 10:31 PM
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i said more than. its an NA motor and at the wheels. i just saw a vid i think it was a 276hp stroker motor. i thiink that was at teh crank run a 13 flat with a crap launch... with my spare NA block im going to have lying around im gonna build it... build it for NA power... dont know why. but it seems like it will be fun. dont know how abouts im going to do it. stroker? maybe... just much higher CR maybe.... itb's? if i have the money. lol...
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Old 11-08-2007, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
you got triples dude... if you are gonna drop money build a stroker motor on your triples and you'll be able to put down over 200 at the wheels. RB20's are crap. SR's are good, but you got a great car. your friend is a retard.
How much would it cost to build the stroker motor? Compared to the other motors. And my friend told me to choose the RB20 because the RB25 will only cost me more money. He said it doesn't make sense to buy it because I don't have huge plans for over 350hp.

Should I build my motor, or buy another motor and build it up. I would prefer to build a carb motor. I like not having to deal with a million sensors and computer codes. How much would this cost to make this motor?? If I can get over 200hp with a L26 or L28 I would rather do that.

I would prefer around 300hp, but if i can get over 200hp for a fraction of the cost.. I rather do that. Power on a budget

Last edited by Black260z; 11-08-2007 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 11-08-2007, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Black260z
How much would it cost to build the stroker motor? Compared to the other motors.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-performance-technical-124/how-much-power-24220/

Originally Posted by NismoPick
-3.0L/3.1L Stroker = $2000 (unless you are lucky & find an LD28 crank)
-Head machine work = $1000
-Block machine work = $1000
-Tripple carbs = $1000
-Motor hardware = $1000
-Exhaust = $500
-Other needed accessories = $1000 - $3000

Originally Posted by Black260z
Should I build my motor, or buy another motor and build it up. I would prefer to build a carb motor. I like not having to deal with a million sensors and computer codes. How much would this cost to make this motor?? If I can get over 200hp with a L26 or L28 I would rather do that.
Why not build an L28ET? Simple, drops right in, little wiring, no "computer codes," will easily reach 200hp, and less $$$ compared to your other 2 options.

Originally Posted by Black260z
I would prefer around 300hp, but if i can get over 200hp for a fraction of the cost.. I rather do that. Power on a budget
HP isn't cheap. Get used to that rule.
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Old 11-08-2007, 09:20 AM
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nismo... where the hell did you get those numbers from? its just a bore out and balance on the rotating assembly for machine work.
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Old 11-08-2007, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
nismo... where the hell did you get those numbers from? its just a bore out and balance on the rotating assembly for machine work.
uh... you're forgetting the "stroke" part of the machine work...
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:03 AM
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no. bore out, and balancing. balancing is the most important part, other wise the stroker motors dont make power over certain RPM's and can shake themselves apart. i did some good research on this. read the longest damn writeup in history. ill see if i can find it again
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:06 AM
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Let me help ya:

http://www.zhome.com/rnt/L28conversion/3031FAQ.html

*When using the diesel crank, do you have to notch the block so the

*connecting rods clear correctly?

It depends. I had no clearance problems when I built my 3.1 liter,

but other people have. The diameter of the bore is a factor, a 89mm

diameter bore will give you more clearance than a 87mm bore. The

9mm connecting rods have less clearance than the 8mm rods. And

there are probably slight differences in the L28 block due to

tolerances and changes to the casting molds during the production

run of the L28.

So, you must expect to check this during engine assembly and take

appropriate measures if necessary (get the die grinder out).
That was written 10 years ago... so prices have gone up too.
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:07 AM
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http://www.zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm


do we have the same link? lol

EDIT: nope mines newer!!!
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
no. bore out, and balancing. balancing is the most important part, other wise the stroker motors dont make power over certain RPM's and can shake themselves apart.

PS... Do you know what the "stroke" part means? The rods actually swing wider than stock, so you may have to notch the inside of the block... unless you do it yourself, prepare to PAY someone to do it.
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:10 AM
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yeah yeah i know. only real thing that worries me on the stroker motor, is how much they bore out the cylinder walls. its pretty significant amount
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Black260z
So my friend got it in my head to do a RB20DET swap. So I spent the majority of the day searching here and hybridz to find answers.

Here is the pro's and con's I found while reading.

RB20DET

PRO's - reliable, nice sound, lots of power/torque, inline 6 in a true inline car. etc.

CON's - older,price, availability of parts, installation, fabrication of other parts needed


SR20DET

PRO's - very common, much cheaper, better on gas, many available mods and services

CON's - not a 6, low torque, engine is too small for the car, doesn't sound good, not as reliable as RB20


Here is where I am confused as heck. Some forums tell me either swap can be done for under $3000, others say $10,000. The SR drops right in, and RB will drop right in with the skyline mounts. I also heard both can are hard to install and are not worth it... go right to the RB25/26. I also heard the SR could bolt up to my 280zx tranny, other sites say you need a different tranny.

I searched the sites, and im even more confused than before! My goal is to choose the motor that will cost me less to buy and install, but can get me 260-320hp. From what I have seen on youtube and street fire I love the sound of the RB20, but I would take the SR20 if I could save $3000.

I just need a little clarity on this subject. If someone has a GOOD link to a website that will tell ACCURATE information. Or someone who has done it, please let me know what the better choice is.
The RB20 Trust me you will be allot happier. if you don';t plan to exed the 400hp mark in the near future the RB20 will be fun. I had one, Daily drove it and Loved it. it wasn;t a crazy RB20 but it was a nice RB20 set up. RB20's are relitively cheap, and are underestimate it by everyone. Parts are easy as hell to get too. my set up was

C33 Laurel RB20
R32 Cross over pipe + 1G DSM BOV Valve
Stock Manifold ported
GT3071R
450cc Injectors
SAFC-II
RB25 Clutch
Autometer Boost and Oil Pressure Gauges
E-gay FMIC

street tuned @ 12psi AF ratios on my friends wideband was 12:1 across the board on the high throttle map and 13.5-/+ :1 on the low throttle map. i got me 24mpg hiway driving (off of boost of course) and I say the car was making 300 - 325whp cause if I truned the boost anything over 12 my clutch would start slipping

I say go RB.


and btw to everyone saying stroking is expensive as hell you can stroke the RB20 pretty cheap compared to any other stroker

RB26 crank 600$
RB25 Rods 350$
4AGE Pistons (brand new forged after market units) 450$ - 550$
machine work to remove material from block to clear rods and bottom dish of pistons: no more than 300$
New Bearings for rods and Mains :300ish

total Stroker Kit Cost: $2100 tops

Cometic Multy Layer MHS: 110$ shipped
ARP Head studs 160$ shipped
RTV Silicone 6$
New Timing belt: 40$
TIming Belt Idler pully: 40$
TIming Belt tensioner: 75$

misc parts to put it back together: $432

2532$ and you got yourself an RB24DET with a bottom end ready to hold 500+ WHP anyday.

Last edited by bardabe; 11-08-2007 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:34 AM
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on the RB20DET, the latest trend I've seen is that they are cheaper than the SR20DET. More weight in the RB but less power potential than the SR. The SR just had better components; I've heard many times the RB25DET is the best bang for your buck as far as those Nissan engines go. RB26DETT is the best but because of this prices stay high for them.

As Mr Pick says, L28et can get you 250whp with some bolt-ons or 200whp on a very low budget. (if you can find an L28et that is not blown. Just run it as-is)
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:38 AM
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i say 2jz it FTMFW!!!
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
i say 2jz it FTMFW!!!
lol hell yeah well the motor sets run usually 2500ish thats the cheapest part ebt the project lol
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:53 AM
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Swap a turbo KA, I've always wanted to see one of those in a Z for some reason.
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Old 11-08-2007, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bardabe
The RB20 Trust me you will be allot happier. if you don';t plan to exed the 400hp mark in the near future the RB20 will be fun. I had one, Daily drove it and Loved it. it wasn;t a crazy RB20 but it was a nice RB20 set up. RB20's are relitively cheap, and are underestimate it by everyone. Parts are easy as hell to get too. my set up was

C33 Laurel RB20
R32 Cross over pipe + 1G DSM BOV Valve
Stock Manifold ported
GT3071R
450cc Injectors
SAFC-II
RB25 Clutch
Autometer Boost and Oil Pressure Gauges
E-gay FMIC

street tuned @ 12psi AF ratios on my friends wideband was 12:1 across the board on the high throttle map and 13.5-/+ :1 on the low throttle map. i got me 24mpg hiway driving (off of boost of course) and I say the car was making 300 - 325whp cause if I truned the boost anything over 12 my clutch would start slipping

I say go RB.


and btw to everyone saying stroking is expensive as hell you can stroke the RB20 pretty cheap compared to any other stroker

RB26 crank 600$
RB25 Rods 350$
4AGE Pistons (brand new forged after market units) 450$ - 550$
machine work to remove material from block to clear rods and bottom dish of pistons: no more than 300$
New Bearings for rods and Mains :300ish

total Stroker Kit Cost: $2100 tops

Cometic Multy Layer MHS: 110$ shipped
ARP Head studs 160$ shipped
RTV Silicone 6$
New Timing belt: 40$
TIming Belt Idler pully: 40$
TIming Belt tensioner: 75$

misc parts to put it back together: $432

2532$ and you got yourself an RB24DET with a bottom end ready to hold 500+ WHP anyday.
How much did it cost you to buy and install your RB20?

Wouldn't it cost about the same to install a L28ET or RB20DET? There are places in Canada selling RB20DET with everything for very cheap.
About $1000
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nissan-Skyline-jd...QQcmdZViewItem

I have not been able to find any L28ET's in Canada. All I can find is regular L28 rebuilt for $500+, so they arnt turbo, they come with no turbo parts, and i wouldnt bother stroking a motor that has brand new parts in it.

Last edited by Black260z; 11-08-2007 at 11:12 AM.
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