SR20 or RB20 motor, confused to s!@#
So my friend got it in my head to do a RB20DET swap. So I spent the majority of the day searching here and hybridz to find answers.
Here is the pro's and con's I found while reading. RB20DET PRO's - reliable, nice sound, lots of power/torque, inline 6 in a true inline car. etc. CON's - older,price, availability of parts, installation, fabrication of other parts needed SR20DET PRO's - very common, much cheaper, better on gas, many available mods and services CON's - not a 6, low torque, engine is too small for the car, doesn't sound good, not as reliable as RB20 Here is where I am confused as heck. Some forums tell me either swap can be done for under $3000, others say $10,000. The SR drops right in, and RB will drop right in with the skyline mounts. I also heard both can are hard to install and are not worth it... go right to the RB25/26. I also heard the SR could bolt up to my 280zx tranny, other sites say you need a different tranny. I searched the sites, and im even more confused than before! My goal is to choose the motor that will cost me less to buy and install, but can get me 260-320hp. From what I have seen on youtube and street fire I love the sound of the RB20, but I would take the SR20 if I could save $3000. I just need a little clarity on this subject. If someone has a GOOD link to a website that will tell ACCURATE information. Or someone who has done it, please let me know what the better choice is. |
anything 20 is a waste of time.
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anything short of a 25 is a waste of time unless its built..
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Originally Posted by Black260z
RB20DET
PRO's - reliable, nice sound, lots of power/torque, inline 6 in a true inline car. etc. CON's - older,price, availability of parts, installation, fabrication of other parts needed SR20DET PRO's - very common, much cheaper, better on gas, many available mods and services CON's - not a 6, low torque, engine is too small for the car, doesn't sound good, not as reliable as RB20 Why are you only considering these two motors? |
Originally Posted by entropy31
anything 20 is a waste of time.
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you got triples dude... if you are gonna drop money build a stroker motor on your triples and you'll be able to put down over 200 at the wheels. RB20's are crap. SR's are good, but you got a great car. your friend is a retard.
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i think this new z has changed snw.......could it be little snw is growing up? im so proud of you....lol just messing with ya snw.
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
and you'll be able to put down over 200 at the wheels.
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LSX /thread
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i said more than. its an NA motor and at the wheels. i just saw a vid i think it was a 276hp stroker motor. i thiink that was at teh crank run a 13 flat with a crap launch... with my spare NA block im going to have lying around im gonna build it... build it for NA power... dont know why. but it seems like it will be fun. dont know how abouts im going to do it. stroker? maybe... just much higher CR maybe.... itb's? if i have the money. lol...
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
you got triples dude... if you are gonna drop money build a stroker motor on your triples and you'll be able to put down over 200 at the wheels. RB20's are crap. SR's are good, but you got a great car. your friend is a retard.
Should I build my motor, or buy another motor and build it up. I would prefer to build a carb motor. I like not having to deal with a million sensors and computer codes. How much would this cost to make this motor?? If I can get over 200hp with a L26 or L28 I would rather do that. I would prefer around 300hp, but if i can get over 200hp for a fraction of the cost.. I rather do that. Power on a budget |
Originally Posted by Black260z
How much would it cost to build the stroker motor? Compared to the other motors.
Originally Posted by NismoPick
-3.0L/3.1L Stroker = $2000 (unless you are lucky & find an LD28 crank)
-Head machine work = $1000 -Block machine work = $1000 -Tripple carbs = $1000 -Motor hardware = $1000 -Exhaust = $500 -Other needed accessories = $1000 - $3000
Originally Posted by Black260z
Should I build my motor, or buy another motor and build it up. I would prefer to build a carb motor. I like not having to deal with a million sensors and computer codes. How much would this cost to make this motor?? If I can get over 200hp with a L26 or L28 I would rather do that.
Originally Posted by Black260z
I would prefer around 300hp, but if i can get over 200hp for a fraction of the cost.. I rather do that. Power on a budget
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nismo... where the hell did you get those numbers from? its just a bore out and balance on the rotating assembly for machine work.
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
nismo... where the hell did you get those numbers from? its just a bore out and balance on the rotating assembly for machine work.
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no. bore out, and balancing. balancing is the most important part, other wise the stroker motors dont make power over certain RPM's and can shake themselves apart. i did some good research on this. read the longest damn writeup in history. ill see if i can find it again
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Let me help ya:
http://www.zhome.com/rnt/L28conversion/3031FAQ.html *When using the diesel crank, do you have to notch the block so the *connecting rods clear correctly? It depends. I had no clearance problems when I built my 3.1 liter, but other people have. The diameter of the bore is a factor, a 89mm diameter bore will give you more clearance than a 87mm bore. The 9mm connecting rods have less clearance than the 8mm rods. And there are probably slight differences in the L28 block due to tolerances and changes to the casting molds during the production run of the L28. So, you must expect to check this during engine assembly and take appropriate measures if necessary (get the die grinder out). |
http://www.zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm
do we have the same link? lol EDIT: nope mines newer!!! |
Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
no. bore out, and balancing. balancing is the most important part, other wise the stroker motors dont make power over certain RPM's and can shake themselves apart.
PS... Do you know what the "stroke" part means? The rods actually swing wider than stock, so you may have to notch the inside of the block... unless you do it yourself, prepare to PAY someone to do it. |
yeah yeah i know. only real thing that worries me on the stroker motor, is how much they bore out the cylinder walls. its pretty significant amount
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Originally Posted by Black260z
So my friend got it in my head to do a RB20DET swap. So I spent the majority of the day searching here and hybridz to find answers.
Here is the pro's and con's I found while reading. RB20DET PRO's - reliable, nice sound, lots of power/torque, inline 6 in a true inline car. etc. CON's - older,price, availability of parts, installation, fabrication of other parts needed SR20DET PRO's - very common, much cheaper, better on gas, many available mods and services CON's - not a 6, low torque, engine is too small for the car, doesn't sound good, not as reliable as RB20 Here is where I am confused as heck. Some forums tell me either swap can be done for under $3000, others say $10,000. The SR drops right in, and RB will drop right in with the skyline mounts. I also heard both can are hard to install and are not worth it... go right to the RB25/26. I also heard the SR could bolt up to my 280zx tranny, other sites say you need a different tranny. I searched the sites, and im even more confused than before! My goal is to choose the motor that will cost me less to buy and install, but can get me 260-320hp. From what I have seen on youtube and street fire I love the sound of the RB20, but I would take the SR20 if I could save $3000. I just need a little clarity on this subject. If someone has a GOOD link to a website that will tell ACCURATE information. Or someone who has done it, please let me know what the better choice is. C33 Laurel RB20 R32 Cross over pipe + 1G DSM BOV Valve Stock Manifold ported GT3071R 450cc Injectors SAFC-II RB25 Clutch Autometer Boost and Oil Pressure Gauges E-gay FMIC street tuned @ 12psi AF ratios on my friends wideband was 12:1 across the board on the high throttle map and 13.5-/+ :1 on the low throttle map. i got me 24mpg hiway driving (off of boost of course) and I say the car was making 300 - 325whp cause if I truned the boost anything over 12 my clutch would start slipping I say go RB. and btw to everyone saying stroking is expensive as hell you can stroke the RB20 pretty cheap compared to any other stroker RB26 crank 600$ RB25 Rods 350$ 4AGE Pistons (brand new forged after market units) 450$ - 550$ machine work to remove material from block to clear rods and bottom dish of pistons: no more than 300$ New Bearings for rods and Mains :300ish total Stroker Kit Cost: $2100 tops Cometic Multy Layer MHS: 110$ shipped ARP Head studs 160$ shipped RTV Silicone 6$ New Timing belt: 40$ TIming Belt Idler pully: 40$ TIming Belt tensioner: 75$ misc parts to put it back together: $432 2532$ and you got yourself an RB24DET with a bottom end ready to hold 500+ WHP anyday. |
on the RB20DET, the latest trend I've seen is that they are cheaper than the SR20DET. More weight in the RB but less power potential than the SR. The SR just had better components; I've heard many times the RB25DET is the best bang for your buck as far as those Nissan engines go. RB26DETT is the best but because of this prices stay high for them.
As Mr Pick says, L28et can get you 250whp with some bolt-ons or 200whp on a very low budget. (if you can find an L28et that is not blown. Just run it as-is) |
i say 2jz it FTMFW!!!
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Originally Posted by snwbrderphat540
i say 2jz it FTMFW!!!
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Swap a turbo KA, I've always wanted to see one of those in a Z for some reason.
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Originally Posted by bardabe
The RB20 Trust me you will be allot happier. if you don';t plan to exed the 400hp mark in the near future the RB20 will be fun. I had one, Daily drove it and Loved it. it wasn;t a crazy RB20 but it was a nice RB20 set up. RB20's are relitively cheap, and are underestimate it by everyone. Parts are easy as hell to get too. my set up was
C33 Laurel RB20 R32 Cross over pipe + 1G DSM BOV Valve Stock Manifold ported GT3071R 450cc Injectors SAFC-II RB25 Clutch Autometer Boost and Oil Pressure Gauges E-gay FMIC street tuned @ 12psi AF ratios on my friends wideband was 12:1 across the board on the high throttle map and 13.5-/+ :1 on the low throttle map. i got me 24mpg hiway driving (off of boost of course) and I say the car was making 300 - 325whp cause if I truned the boost anything over 12 my clutch would start slipping I say go RB. and btw to everyone saying stroking is expensive as hell you can stroke the RB20 pretty cheap compared to any other stroker RB26 crank 600$ RB25 Rods 350$ 4AGE Pistons (brand new forged after market units) 450$ - 550$ machine work to remove material from block to clear rods and bottom dish of pistons: no more than 300$ New Bearings for rods and Mains :300ish total Stroker Kit Cost: $2100 tops Cometic Multy Layer MHS: 110$ shipped ARP Head studs 160$ shipped RTV Silicone 6$ New Timing belt: 40$ TIming Belt Idler pully: 40$ TIming Belt tensioner: 75$ misc parts to put it back together: $432 2532$ and you got yourself an RB24DET with a bottom end ready to hold 500+ WHP anyday. Wouldn't it cost about the same to install a L28ET or RB20DET? There are places in Canada selling RB20DET with everything for very cheap. About $1000 http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nissan-Skyline-jd...QQcmdZViewItem I have not been able to find any L28ET's in Canada. All I can find is regular L28 rebuilt for $500+, so they arnt turbo, they come with no turbo parts, and i wouldnt bother stroking a motor that has brand new parts in it. |
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