theramz

FYI the '70-'72 came only with the mech pump. Sometime in late '73 or '74 they added the low pressure electric pump to help prevent vapor lock. A replacement mech pump will work fine for now so save your time and money, check that fuel filter on the ps fender.

4u2nV

i just put the fuel filter on, it's brand new...i disconnected the hose to the first su carb and cranked the key, nothing came out...this car sat, there has to be a way to purge the system from the gas tank to the pump i dumped 5 gallons into the tank is that enough to run through a dried out system?

theramz

You might try removing the fuel pump and manually operating it in a can of gas. If it works disconnect the fuel line at the filter and lower the hose below tank level. If no flow try some compressed air 5-10 psi and blow through the front end with the gas cap off. You should hear bubbles.
Ramz out untill tuesday.

4u2nV

how can you lower the hose lower than the tank, i can lower the rubber but the metal part of the fuel line that rides on the frame rail has that bend at the end, will that matter?

4u2nV

well i tried operating the pump manually, didn't really do it's thing...so instead of blowing in the tube cause i don't have a compressor i did the only moronic thing to do, i sucked and sucked and sucked, till i got a mouthful of 92 octane, yeah that's a burn i wish i never experienced...but got it in the lines, so i hooked the pump up to the flow inlet and pumped by hand...still nothing, when i pumped hard and as fast as i could i got driplets, so i'm guessing the pump is bad, 40 bucks gets me a new one so i'm gettin one tomorrow and hoping that's the problem with the fuel not getting there. so am i correct in thinking 2 wires in the back were for a fuel pump possibility in 71, and the other 2 wires are the gas gauge sensor?

theramz

Yeah that sucks-ahur hur hur. At idle the pump is at 400+ squirts a minute. Make sure you change the filter after you run the new pump. Check for voltage from the wires in question with key on and off. Maybe you can use them for a small booster pump. If they are coming out of the same harness they are meant for somethig else, check your diagram.

4u2nV

advanced has a mechanical fuel pump replacement for 40 bucks but will take 4-5 days to get here, should i wait for that or they have a 3.5-4.5 psi electronic pump for $45...in stock, can i use the block off plate from my 280zx and hook up the electric pump by itself, just run a couple wires and fuse it to a switch or on the ign acc or something on that line?

theramz

Yeah but it's best to have a filter before the pump to get out the big chunks first.

4u2nV

so i could put one of those clear in line filters in then right?

theramz

Those cost more and you can't clean them. I think a larger throw away is better.

4u2nV

ok hooked up the pump running it through a switch, it never cuts off though, i thought pressure would build and it would cut off, but it runs and runs, and i see fuel coming out from under the the carb on the right also drips out of the airway on this carb also where the air cleaner would go.....what could cause this? it's not starting, probably due to "flooding" ughhhh. the pump i picked up is only 3.5 - 5 psi, and i left the mechanical attached as i didn't have the block off plate on the 280zx like i thought i did, it's the power steering pump bracket, and i didn't wanna take it off so yeah, it flows right through the mechanical pump and i guess is flooding the carbs, also noticed my alternator is pretty warm to touch, seems odd just for cranking the engine...also hooked a test light up to both sides of the coil and it doesn't light up, so spark may be the issue, gonna do some research on putting the 280zx distributor in. as i replaced the cap, rotor, wires, and contact points gonna try and replace the condensor before i do that....speaking of condensors, the one for the alternator get's hooked up to the positive lead right? maybe i should stick to building computers lol. i have a feeling i'll know quite a bit about cars after i get this one running haha

BlueKitsune

Adjust your floats their set far to low. Might want to readjust your nozzles too

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...tor/index.html 280ZX dizzy swap. Almost the very bottom for a 240Z swap with pics

And yes the condenser hooks to the + wire and it bolts under then -ground on the alternator.

4u2nV

ok i pulled the carb apart and everything looks like brand new, i pulled the floats off to make sure they were not cracked and retaining fuel, they are brand new also, what else could be making the bowls over flow and the engine not start?

BlueKitsune

Well were the levels adjusted right? Just cuz their new doesn't mean the tab as been bent to the right height. Hmm It should start but run like crap even if it was flooding so you might what to check over your ignition system.

theramz

The needles and seats may be bad, not shutting off the flow. I've taken out old ones cleaned them and they work fine. Seats could be blocked with crude not allowing the needle to shut off the flow. Fix the gas leaks and then move to spark.

4u2nV

ok the left carb i noticed doesn't operate normally, the damper and everything look new, but the needle has residue on it and looks to be some residue or something in the hole where the needle goes into, the part that moves with the choke, it doesn't not move back and forth with the choke cable i have to put some force to loosen it, also the part that raises that the needle attaches to i cannot lift with my finger through the horn area as i can with the other one. before i went and checked this i went to spark, and both terminals get 12v so i checked resistance from - to + and it reads 1.4 then i checked resistance from - to main center ouput on coil and that reads 12.77 according the fsm these readings are off, to check further i pulled the cap and noticed the wire that goes to the spade terminal and inside to the point was not attached and broken, so i replaced the whole contact as i had an extra, and ran a new wire from the spade to the point. i also put on a new condensor, again making sure i was 153624 which i am, i hooked it all back up, and still nothing, so i pulled a spark plug out left it in the wire and laid the nut on the strut tower bolt, sanded it down to make sure it had a good ground, and i'm getting no spark, the inside of the distributor looks like somebody spray panted it grey, i think i'm gonna try to find another distributor and if that doesn't work i'll pick up a new coil. I wish my 83 turbo distributor worked but all i've been reading is it has to be the earlier ZX dizzy with the e12-80 module...will probably take a ride up to the junkyard sometime this week and see what i can find as far as coil and distributor :/ also may need a new needle and seat for the carb as the left one doesn't move freely without some force almost like when the needle seats in it feels like it sticks. oh joy.

4u2nV

after looking at some engine pics over on Classic Zcar Club i noticed i'm missing a vital piece of equipment, the ballast resistor for the coil. Whoops! Yet another piece for the engine bay that i had no idea belonged there. :/ Maybe this will help with spark lol

Zphillips

I got a 78Z and can't get it to idle down, the idle screw is turned all the way in and still idles fast. Checked timming and it is okay. Can anyone tell me what I should look for? All vacuum hoses are on and not leaking,

4u2nV

ok got the ballast resistor in today, slapped it on, i must be missing something else here cause i'm still not getting spark, ugh, i swear i'm so close to just giving up and selling this damn thing.

theramz

All the ballast resistor does is reduce the voltage to the coil down to about 8 volts. Make sure you have juice to the coil with the key on.. If good then get your mom or girl friend to hold the coil wire while you crank it over. If she jumps the coil is ok. After she gots over that have her hold a spark plug wire and assure her it won't shock her. If she jumps you better run but it means the dizzy is working.
If you give up you lose!

4u2nV

lol ok now how else can i realistically check them by myself? the resistance on the primary is 13.7 and 1.4 on the secondary, according to the fsm these are wrong, when i check for voltage i get 12 at the coil sometimes more when i'm jumped on another vehicle. I've takin a plug out and put it back in the wire, then rested it on the strut tower bolt to ground out the plug, then i turned the key while watching the plug and i'm not that close but i reach in and turn the key and try to watch the plug but i see no spark...

theramz

Aw come on, put the #6 wire in the coil and hold it yourself. If it makes you **** your pants it's good. If not then try it in the dizzy. Holding the wire and turning the key makes an excellent ground. Check the voltage to the coil when it's cranking over to make sure your battery is good enough.