it was made to measure fuel pressure.... hmmm.... idk dude i think it went by 10's in teh psi and only went up to 8..... wtf... now idk, why on earth would they do this to me....well, inproper fuel pressure is the only thing i can think of to cause this problem thogh anyways...

EDIT: ok here are the symptoms and 2 things that could be wrong, anyone enlighten me on what you think the problem could be. as you know the inlet on the fuel pump is a larger diameter tube than teh outlet on it, i have yet to change the fuel lines in the tank to match the pumps intake pipe diamter, the timing could be off, but as i messed with it the shittier it ran and the harder it seemed to be to start, couldnt tell fure sure though. its very hard to start, mostly so after you actually had the car running. the plugs after getting a total of 20 min's maybe run time are fowled.... and yeah, she wont hold idle for ****.... any takers?

of all the things i see people bitch about after this swap, ahh theres no spark, bla bla blah, i get this more vague stupid one...

 

This is more than likely NOT the prob. IMO it should be that way... allow the fuel pump to suck more fuel, and pressurize it out to a smaller line.


Have you hooked up a timing light to actually see what degree it's set to? For the turbo motor it should be @ 20 degress, tho w/ your higher compression you might not want to go that high.

 

havent gotten my hands on a timing light, its gonna be tough to time though with no idle, i want a light that will read out RPM's as well, but idk, and yeah suck more fuel to pressurize the smaller line, right, but right now i got same diameter lines on both ends of the pump so no real pressurization is going on i would think. idk. this is retarded. well, car gets to sit a few days though, i got a paper to write for wed and i work tuesday and wed. so come thursday, im spending money. lol. im dropping the tank, getting the fuel lines to match what they would on the zxt and then, im gonna get me a new FPR. and i think im gonna blow out the fuel rail. also, i am gonna get my hands on a timing light. only thing is, i dont want to buy one since i touch a timing light what, once every 2 years? pshhh...

EDIT: also, when i droped my oil pump, and teh oil pump shaft fell out, is it possible when i put it up it wasnt facing the same direction as origanlly? there for my modified distributor could be off enough where its not correctable? btw. any one have a turbo distributor and oil pump/distributor shaft they can spare incase it comes down to that? i feel like i might be setting my engine #1 cylinder to top dead center and checking out the distributor placement and ****.... i still suspect fuel pressure also.

 

pft... you're no mechanic if you don't have a timing light. They cost wha.... $30???

Did you line up the shaft dot correctly?

 

more like 40-100 dollars i want a good one. lol. also, dude, shaft dot? got any awsome write ups on changing distributors to make sure you keep teh timing correct. cause im running out of ideas. the timing light i wnat uses a Xenon light so its bright and fast and you can actually read it, will measure up to a 100th of a degree off or some crap like that and measure out RPM's and other fun stuff on the gun. costs 99 dollars.

 

The Haynes manual has an awesome distrib / timing write up.

 

your so gay ^^^^

haha jk, ill look into it i do believe i got a haynes. thanks.... i think.... lol. maybe i should just go all out. buy a fuel cell and a pump, get my megasquirt, hook up teh pallnet fuel rail get an aeromotive FPR and FP guage, run all new lines and teh DSM injectors in there... and tehn replace the distributor and oil pump shaft do this the right way. that'll show em! lol. then if she runs good and healthy get an exhaust..... no nvm no exhaust might change turbo's soon. get an FMIC made up though. odk, ill try the timing and fuel tank idea first. lol. and FPR.

 

well, she floods, or at least runs retardedly rich till it reaches a flooded state. after running turn it off, wont restart, flip off the fuel pump, BOOM! springs back to life for 5 seconds and starts to drop down flipped pump back on, bitch basically idled. hmmm..... time to check the injectors i guess.

 

ALRIGHT ALRIGHT.....

so i stuck in an LED and as long as the car cranks fast enough teh LED pulses like like it should, as to what percentage its telling the injectors to open i have no idea, soooo.... i guess my dad check my fuel pressure said its all coo, that leaves me with what guys? my AFM and or injectors no? cuase there must be soem reason my plugs are wet every time i pull them, i know i repeat KNOW the problem is to much fuel..... lay it on me.

 

Crossed Plug Wires?

 

i also thought that... im gonna check it, but not today most likely.

 

Did you set the timing yet? That's the first thing you check when you have a prob.

 

Timing, AFM, Ignition Module could be your issue, but I'd definitely check your timing.

 

ignition module is NEW! timing i gotta get to bussiness on sometime soon. gonna change the distributor and oil shaft so its done the right way but spark is bright and perty. i need to find me a good write up on how to keep the timing correct when swapping the oil pump shaft/dizzy though save me headaches later... any one? lol

 

We should do a track race in Utah when you get yours finished and when mine is finished. Your car might be faster but i might be a better turning driver...lol...probably not...car sounds like its progressing along.

 

RMR this summer homie! I'm gunna try to get my Z inspected today... then she'll be out to cruise!

 

why utah? lol, cant we meet half way? soooo farrr....... but almost straight shot west.

 

Sweet, im still trying to find injectors.. guy that has some hasnt replied to any of my messages yet, oh well, nothing else i can do but wait now.

Cannot wait to hear and see your car screaming around B-Town. And Utah is where nismo and i are, much easier to come here than us to go out there...

 

so ummm.... yeah....... i forgot to plug in my CHTS..... soooo i think im gonna go try to start the car now. lol. before disxovering this i did pull the fuel rail and no injectors leak and they spray on command but ALOT, aka my rich feature of teh car. i noticed something, on initial start up from off to start position the injectors dont fire, let off stat and let it sit in on position for 5 seconds and try start again teh injectors fire.... go figure.

 

UPDATE BIOTCHES..... welll, im pretty happy. while you jokers were off playing grab *** at MSA (im kidding i wish i went) i worked on my car. what might you ask, finally re-did teh timing, lets say, teh shaft was AT LEAST 10 degrees off, fixed that, hopefully it helps out, i have a leak somewhere so it rained one night so i tore my entire interious out except the dash. and then i found rust i thought it was soo rust free but i was wrong..... it was under the rear hatch carpet, the tops of those lil compartments were rusted, also the insides of them..... BADLY. so i went to sandblasting heaven, i plasted teh under sides of the little access doors on the hood, as well as the lil doors for teh storage compartments behind the seats. i then blasted in them to find out there was a hole in the passenger side one, so i think im gonna eliminat that compartment, save a lil weight, maybe even both and just undercoat them fierglass tehm shut and under coat tehm again. now on to exciting news. my wiring as you all know i bitched about wires and fusible links burning up crazy style. well, we went back to the drawing board and started going over the wiring, we found one setup that should have worked, but all that would happen was the starter gear would get kicked out, all the accessories and ECU would work, but no crank. i was like..... hmmmm, well if the wires burn up the other way and then not this way but the starter doesnt turn BUT will kick out the gear, what am i missing here...... BING! light goes on, aduhhhhhhh the starter was drawing power from the harness, so today after school i went out and bought me a new 2 guage batter cable for the positive post to the starter, vuwala.... no heating up of any wires, AND the bitch cranks.... SHE CRANKS DAMNIT! and just to make sure i cranked it for a good 15-20 seconds and teh wires were cool as me.... cause i am pretty damn cool yah know so im pretty damn happy, i however have an *** load of homework so no more working on the car today, i want to go back in and sand blast the interior floor board section thats behind the seats as tehy are developing jsut surface rust as of right now, then i want to undercoat them, on the inside after that i need all new carpeting and new body gaskets seals etc. so i can stop teh leak and have a nice interior again. i still havent started teh car but i need to make up an intake system as well, then im sure i get to work on that running rich problem some more, but W/E im happy.

 

UGH! i cant believe there is no feedback on this issue, its freaking ground breaking! lol, but anyways, started the car, WOOT WOOT. got it timed, then tried to make it idle... no luck. now here is the scoop, it will go to idle speed and idle very low, but with just ever so slight throttle pressure, once you let off it puts to its death. so i went to adjsut teh ball and rod linkages so they would constantly be pullin on the throttle just a HAIR. and wehn i started her back up, she ran like ****. would hold a killer idl though. lol. and smoked liek a ****. well, i looked at the ECU, and even though it was working, the LED would go off once you turn it to start (then usually turns back on to my recolection when teh key returns to the ON position) and would only turn back on once the car would die. it sounds like its missing liek a **** when this happens. and i just couldnt figure out why. however on clean up when i moved my AFM to the right ever so slightly the connector came off or was off... IDK, but i hope thats what the problem was, i will find out come..... tommorow? no probably not, lets go with wed. or thursday.

 

Good job Snowy! How bout that for some feedback!

 

Good stuff man, got any pics? Hopefully you can make it out to MSA next year.

 

hopefully, well, i got pics, but none updated, and nothing really to show since the interior is torn out, unless you wanna see the engine bay, which ive posted already, but instead of makin yah search ill post some up here. and IF my only problem was teh AFM came unplugged (please god) then ill maybe throw a seat back in it and drive her for a video. but i need to mount my ECU somewhere still..... hmmmmmm..... but i dont see how it could be the AFM, it ran perfect got the timing set then after turning it off and doing stuff turn it make on and it ran like absolute crap (which it did once before but never again) i dont see how it isnt the AFM just coming unplugged. i hope that would be teh reason at least. once you start your car the LED's on your guys' ECU's stay on doesnt it? mine stayed off till dead, would an unplugged AFM cause this... idk i hope so. i dont have time to figure it out today, but lets just hope thats teh reason.

 

oh yeah, and if anyone has a spare turbo oil pan that ISNT leaking id like to take that off your hands, ive been repairing mine as new leaks showed up but now one or two more appeared and i think its just gonna keep happenening, or my oil return is leaking.... sigh.... have to get under there and look. but im sick of this oil pan already.