Pay $150 to finish my L28ET wiring Houston, TX
05-05-2013, 03:17 PM
#1
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Pay $150 to finish my L28ET wiring Houston, TX
If you live in the Houston area I will pay you $150 to finish my L28ET wiring swap. Tired of f*cking around and these crappy contradictory diagrams that show a harness on one that is not found on the other. $150 cash. PM me.
05-06-2013, 05:58 AM
#3
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Here is my post on my wiring woes at hybridz. No ECCS Green light nor fuel pump priming - Page 2 - Ignition and Electrical - HybridZ
The two schematics they use are completely contradictory. Look at my last couple posts, it had my wiring pictures under the dash.
No one has mentioned what you use for the EFI relay in any of this, whether it is the 280zx of 280z or how any of that hooks up.
05-06-2013, 06:48 AM
#4
If the ecu isn't getting power, then the main white power wire isn't hooked up, the fusible link is toast, or the ecu is toast. Are you using the 280ZXT battery hookup / fusible link?
Are you using the 280ZXT coil harness? Coil bracket? Is it securely grounded?
The coil just receives switched 12v power... it's the yellow w/ white stripe wire that is the trigger. The coil / ignitor is grounded through the bracket.
I don't know which two contradictory diagrams you are talking about, but this is the one I've always used, and it has always worked fine for me...
Are you using the 280ZXT coil harness? Coil bracket? Is it securely grounded?
The coil just receives switched 12v power... it's the yellow w/ white stripe wire that is the trigger. The coil / ignitor is grounded through the bracket.
I don't know which two contradictory diagrams you are talking about, but this is the one I've always used, and it has always worked fine for me...
05-06-2013, 08:14 AM
#5
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If the ecu isn't getting power, then the main white power wire isn't hooked up, the fusible link is toast, or the ecu is toast. Are you using the 280ZXT battery hookup / fusible link?
No, just the brown and green wire. Both are to the starter. I guess I need to do that. Where does the white wire end up?
Are you using the 280ZXT coil harness? Coil bracket? Is it securely grounded? Coil harness, no didn't have it, made my own. Yes to the coil and bracket
The coil just receives switched 12v power... it's the yellow w/ white stripe wire that is the trigger. The coil / ignitor is grounded through the bracket.
I don't know which two contradictory diagrams you are talking about, but this is the one I've always used, and it has always worked fine for me...
No, just the brown and green wire. Both are to the starter. I guess I need to do that. Where does the white wire end up?
Are you using the 280ZXT coil harness? Coil bracket? Is it securely grounded? Coil harness, no didn't have it, made my own. Yes to the coil and bracket
The coil just receives switched 12v power... it's the yellow w/ white stripe wire that is the trigger. The coil / ignitor is grounded through the bracket.
I don't know which two contradictory diagrams you are talking about, but this is the one I've always used, and it has always worked fine for me...
05-06-2013, 09:50 AM
#8
I don't frequent HBZ anymore, so I still don't know what you are talking about. Links? Have you looked at the diagram I posted?
The ecu controls the fuel pump via grounding the fuel pump relay. Do you have the fuel pump control module connected (smaller metal box by ecu, trapezoidal looking top)? The fuel pump will not activate without these two items working (control module & ecu pin #16 grounding the relay).
I suspect a wiring problem here.
Are you asking what kind of relay? It's just a typical Datsun / Nissan relay. It's green to easily spot it from the rest. If you have the complete L28ET EFI harness, it's the relay socket by the +power / fusible link wiring.
EDIT...
Again, full / detailed pictures of your wiring would be much more helpful.
EDIT #2:
A good read: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...et-swap-27449/
Are you asking what kind of relay? It's just a typical Datsun / Nissan relay. It's green to easily spot it from the rest. If you have the complete L28ET EFI harness, it's the relay socket by the +power / fusible link wiring.
EDIT...
Again, full / detailed pictures of your wiring would be much more helpful.
EDIT #2:
A good read: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...et-swap-27449/
Last edited by NismoPick; 05-06-2013 at 09:57 AM.
05-06-2013, 10:19 AM
#9
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I don't frequent HBZ anymore, so I still don't know what you are talking about. Links? Have you looked at the diagram I posted?
That's all I have used is that diagram.
The ecu controls the fuel pump via grounding the fuel pump relay. Do you have the fuel pump control module connected (smaller metal box by ecu, trapezoidal looking top)? The fuel pump will not activate without these two items working (control module & ecu pin #16 grounding the relay).
I do not have fuel pump control module, must have left with the car. I suppose I am ****ed now. **** I hate all this ****. This is the **** that pisses me off. You are the first guy to even bring this up.
I suspect a wiring problem here.
Are you asking what kind of relay? It's just a typical Datsun / Nissan relay. It's green to easily spot it from the rest. If you have the complete L28ET EFI harness, it's the relay socket by the +power / fusible link wiring.
Dude all I have is the green fuel pump relay and the ignition relay.
EDIT...
Again, full / detailed pictures of your wiring would be much more helpful.
EDIT #2:
A good read: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...et-swap-27449/
That's all I have used is that diagram.
The ecu controls the fuel pump via grounding the fuel pump relay. Do you have the fuel pump control module connected (smaller metal box by ecu, trapezoidal looking top)? The fuel pump will not activate without these two items working (control module & ecu pin #16 grounding the relay).
I do not have fuel pump control module, must have left with the car. I suppose I am ****ed now. **** I hate all this ****. This is the **** that pisses me off. You are the first guy to even bring this up.
I suspect a wiring problem here.
Are you asking what kind of relay? It's just a typical Datsun / Nissan relay. It's green to easily spot it from the rest. If you have the complete L28ET EFI harness, it's the relay socket by the +power / fusible link wiring.
Dude all I have is the green fuel pump relay and the ignition relay.
EDIT...
Again, full / detailed pictures of your wiring would be much more helpful.
EDIT #2:
A good read: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...et-swap-27449/
05-06-2013, 10:38 AM
#10
This isn't the end of the world... there are work arounds. But I suggest you take a step (or two) back and make a game plan. No offense, but it sounds like you jumped into this thinking it was going to be cake to throw all this together without researching FIRST. When I did my swap, I printed out EVERYTHING, and had EVERYTHING laid out on my garage floor w/ tabs on every wire (see this thread: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...c-heavy-30516/ ).
You can just wire up your own fuel pump power, relay, and switch for now... then once you get it started, you can change things. So you don't HAVE to use the fuel pump control module. I agree w/ the posts on your HBZ thread tho... you don't even have the injectors installed... I suggest getting everything ready to fire first.
Now, pic #5 with the two white plugs: One is for the fuel pump control module, the other contains the yellow w/ white stripe wire for the coil trigger.
Pic #6, that's the plug I used for the fuel pump wires so I didn't have to run new wiring.
Pic #4 is too small to see any relevant wiring detail, but that is where the efi relay socket should be (brown socket I believe).
You can just wire up your own fuel pump power, relay, and switch for now... then once you get it started, you can change things. So you don't HAVE to use the fuel pump control module. I agree w/ the posts on your HBZ thread tho... you don't even have the injectors installed... I suggest getting everything ready to fire first.
Now, pic #5 with the two white plugs: One is for the fuel pump control module, the other contains the yellow w/ white stripe wire for the coil trigger.
Pic #6, that's the plug I used for the fuel pump wires so I didn't have to run new wiring.
Pic #4 is too small to see any relevant wiring detail, but that is where the efi relay socket should be (brown socket I believe).
05-06-2013, 11:15 AM
#11
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 12
This isn't the end of the world... there are work arounds. But I suggest you take a step (or two) back and make a game plan. No offense, but it sounds like you jumped into this thinking it was going to be cake to throw all this together without researching FIRST. When I did my swap, I printed out EVERYTHING, and had EVERYTHING laid out on my garage floor w/ tabs on every wire (see this thread: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-...c-heavy-30516/ ).
You can just wire up your own fuel pump power, relay, and switch for now... then once you get it started, you can change things. So you don't HAVE to use the fuel pump control module. I agree w/ the posts on your HBZ thread tho... you don't even have the injectors installed... I suggest getting everything ready to fire first.
Now, pic #5 with the two white plugs: One is for the fuel pump control module, the other contains the yellow w/ white stripe wire for the coil trigger.
Pic #6, that's the plug I used for the fuel pump wires so I didn't have to run new wiring.
Pic #4 is too small to see any relevant wiring detail, but that is where the efi relay socket should be (brown socket I believe).
You can just wire up your own fuel pump power, relay, and switch for now... then once you get it started, you can change things. So you don't HAVE to use the fuel pump control module. I agree w/ the posts on your HBZ thread tho... you don't even have the injectors installed... I suggest getting everything ready to fire first.
Now, pic #5 with the two white plugs: One is for the fuel pump control module, the other contains the yellow w/ white stripe wire for the coil trigger.
Pic #6, that's the plug I used for the fuel pump wires so I didn't have to run new wiring.
Pic #4 is too small to see any relevant wiring detail, but that is where the efi relay socket should be (brown socket I believe).
Why do I need two fuel pump relays? If I have to wire up a new one what is the one on the firewall for?
05-06-2013, 12:17 PM
#13
I have no idea what you are doing...
Why are you wiring the yellow ignitor / coil trigger wire to your S30 harness?
Why is the black wire going to the ignitor?
I am beyond confused at your wiring...
You don't need two... you need one.
Yes.
Originally Posted by Ben's Z on HBZ
Here is my 280z ignition harness.
Wiring is as follows:
Red: The colored schematic looked like it required a wire to branch off of the 12volt constant for fuel pump relay to ignition switch, so I tried this...
Yellow: to yellow and white striped wire on zxt harness
Black
next to yellow wire) to ignitor/distributor condensor
Black: 6 prong plug to ignition relay
Wiring is as follows:
Red: The colored schematic looked like it required a wire to branch off of the 12volt constant for fuel pump relay to ignition switch, so I tried this...
Yellow: to yellow and white striped wire on zxt harness
Black
next to yellow wire) to ignitor/distributor condensorBlack: 6 prong plug to ignition relay
Why is the black wire going to the ignitor?
I am beyond confused at your wiring...
Yes.
05-06-2013, 12:47 PM
#14
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 12
I have no idea what you are doing...
Why are you wiring the yellow ignitor / coil trigger wire to your S30 harness?
Why is the black wire going to the ignitor?
This said to.
See schematic
I am beyond confused at your wiring...
You don't need two... you need one.
Then what happens with the original zxt one on the firewall?
Yes.
Why are you wiring the yellow ignitor / coil trigger wire to your S30 harness?
Why is the black wire going to the ignitor?
This said to.
See schematic
I am beyond confused at your wiring...
You don't need two... you need one.
Then what happens with the original zxt one on the firewall?
Yes.
05-06-2013, 01:01 PM
#16
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Posts: 12
I didn't make it dude. I think the guy who did it, who is well respected, did it because I think he got rid of the fuel pump module too. That's why I am confused on the whole fuel pump relay thing. I think he removed the old one and put in that one, I am guessing.
05-06-2013, 01:08 PM
#17
I know you didn't make it... Cygnus did. But I would assume he posted it with some kind of key or reference to the plugs & wiring colors? Link me that thread on HBZ containing that diagram.
05-06-2013, 02:46 PM
#18
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05-06-2013, 04:35 PM
#19
#1: That's not Cygnus's post... that's someone else (jgautosport) re-posting it from somewhere else, asking about wiring unrelated to the actual swap. That doesn't help anyone understand Cygnus's diagram (which I'm thinking ISN'T for a direct swap).
#2: My head hurts from reading that thread... so much misinformation and lack of moderation. Instead of a useful Sticky thread, it has become a n00b "halp! I'm lost!" thread with no recent follow up or updating. About 95% of the posts on that thread should be deleted.
#3: I suggest following the colored diagram with the FSM wiring diagrams. This shouldn't be / isn't complicated if you follow the proper instructions & pay attention.
#2: My head hurts from reading that thread... so much misinformation and lack of moderation. Instead of a useful Sticky thread, it has become a n00b "halp! I'm lost!" thread with no recent follow up or updating. About 95% of the posts on that thread should be deleted.
#3: I suggest following the colored diagram with the FSM wiring diagrams. This shouldn't be / isn't complicated if you follow the proper instructions & pay attention.
05-06-2013, 05:35 PM
#20
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 12
#1: That's not Cygnus's post... that's someone else (jgautosport) re-posting it from somewhere else, asking about wiring unrelated to the actual swap. That doesn't help anyone understand Cygnus's diagram (which I'm thinking ISN'T for a direct swap).
#2: My head hurts from reading that thread... so much misinformation and lack of moderation. Instead of a useful Sticky thread, it has become a n00b "halp! I'm lost!" thread with no recent follow up or updating. About 95% of the posts on that thread should be deleted.
#3: I suggest following the colored diagram with the FSM wiring diagrams. This shouldn't be / isn't complicated if you follow the proper instructions & pay attention.
#2: My head hurts from reading that thread... so much misinformation and lack of moderation. Instead of a useful Sticky thread, it has become a n00b "halp! I'm lost!" thread with no recent follow up or updating. About 95% of the posts on that thread should be deleted.
#3: I suggest following the colored diagram with the FSM wiring diagrams. This shouldn't be / isn't complicated if you follow the proper instructions & pay attention.
05-09-2013, 11:53 AM
#22
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Posts: 4
If your ECCS harness has provision for a Fuel Pump Control Module, there will be a white 8-pin connector near the ECU. It only uses 5 of the 8 pins. (It'll have a BW, WL, LB, and a couple of B wires (I think) going into it.)
IT IS NOT NEEDED for the ECU to operate OR for the engine to fire. I have an '83 280ZXT in the shop right now. It starts and runs. It has nothing plugged into the 8-pin FPC Module connector.
In the STOCK 280ZX Turbo, the Modulator is attached to the fuel pump Voltage wire (the Green that powers the fuel pump from the fuel pump relay). It's sole purpose is to LOWER the voltage to the pump under certain conditions (like when you're out on the road cruising at a moderate RPM and the fuel pump doesn't have to work that hard to keep fuel pressure up...) - it drops the voltage to +9V or something like that (again - described in the FSM)
I don't see an actual need to run the FPCM in an S30 / Turbo swap. My Son has run his '83 L28ET ('76 280Z frame) for 6 years now without one. I've never run one either.
Ben, your wiring pictures above scare the hell out of me. They can't be correct. But, neither can I be sure of exactly what I'm looking at.
"Plug 3" and "Plug 2" on the ECCS harness are an interface between the engine and ECU and the body harness of the 280ZXT.
(The ECCS harness is pretty much self-contained - BUT - it does need a few other "outside" connections:
- Black/White IGN ON +12V
-- powers the EFI Relay and other ECCS components
-- (the coil and ignitor also need this voltage - stock 280ZXT has a seperate harness for this)
- Yellow/White signal wire to Ignitor (Why? Stock 280ZXT has a seperate harness that goes to the Coil / Ignitor - "plug 2" is the "interface" connection between those 2 harnesses)
- Blue/Red on "plug 3" goes to the coil of the fuel pump relay. The coil is the "ON/OFF switch". Again, on the stock 280ZXT, the fuel pump relay is on a different harness. The ECU turns the switch on and off. Plug 3 is the interface connection from the ECU to the harness that holds the fuel pump relay.
- Green on "plug 3" needs a connection to the Green +12V wire OUT of the fuel pump relay. (Green wire only has voltage when the ECU turns it on) The fuel pump AND the Air Regulator get power from the fuel pump relay. (the car will start and run without the air regulator, just not as well if it's not working)
IT IS NOT NEEDED for the ECU to operate OR for the engine to fire. I have an '83 280ZXT in the shop right now. It starts and runs. It has nothing plugged into the 8-pin FPC Module connector.
In the STOCK 280ZX Turbo, the Modulator is attached to the fuel pump Voltage wire (the Green that powers the fuel pump from the fuel pump relay). It's sole purpose is to LOWER the voltage to the pump under certain conditions (like when you're out on the road cruising at a moderate RPM and the fuel pump doesn't have to work that hard to keep fuel pressure up...) - it drops the voltage to +9V or something like that (again - described in the FSM)
I don't see an actual need to run the FPCM in an S30 / Turbo swap. My Son has run his '83 L28ET ('76 280Z frame) for 6 years now without one. I've never run one either.
Ben, your wiring pictures above scare the hell out of me. They can't be correct. But, neither can I be sure of exactly what I'm looking at.
"Plug 3" and "Plug 2" on the ECCS harness are an interface between the engine and ECU and the body harness of the 280ZXT.
(The ECCS harness is pretty much self-contained - BUT - it does need a few other "outside" connections:
- Black/White IGN ON +12V
-- powers the EFI Relay and other ECCS components
-- (the coil and ignitor also need this voltage - stock 280ZXT has a seperate harness for this)
- Yellow/White signal wire to Ignitor (Why? Stock 280ZXT has a seperate harness that goes to the Coil / Ignitor - "plug 2" is the "interface" connection between those 2 harnesses)
- Blue/Red on "plug 3" goes to the coil of the fuel pump relay. The coil is the "ON/OFF switch". Again, on the stock 280ZXT, the fuel pump relay is on a different harness. The ECU turns the switch on and off. Plug 3 is the interface connection from the ECU to the harness that holds the fuel pump relay.
- Green on "plug 3" needs a connection to the Green +12V wire OUT of the fuel pump relay. (Green wire only has voltage when the ECU turns it on) The fuel pump AND the Air Regulator get power from the fuel pump relay. (the car will start and run without the air regulator, just not as well if it's not working)
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