Hello, been lurking around here for a while and joined up to soak up some knowledge for my new money pit.

77' 280z with l28et swap (from an 83 I believe)

Over the years I've avoided buying partial swaps...but the few i've bought I've been able to complete fairly easily (mostly 240sx's with hacked up sr20 swaps) until i picked this baby up. The 280z last ran in 09' I believe..the PO wired it up just enough to hear how it ran before he went into full restoration mode. After following a few wiring guides the connections made seem to be correct (though temporary at best...some alligator clips and butt connectors EEK!)though there are some mysteries to be solved. Keep in mind that i'm pouring throughs posts and wiring diagrams as I go...the comments below are just thoughts/background on the current setup, chime in if you have any suggestions but I fully understand the search button is my friend

One thing that is confusing me is the efi and fuel pump relays were retained on the 280zxt harness and I thought most just kept the fusible links (I'd imagine the relays are a better route...but fusilble links are pretty easy to swap out when they go out)

The ECCS is not getting power...I'm trying to find the pins that supply power to it but the wiring diagrams from here and hybridz are showing pins/colors that aren't on my harness. I just want to run power straight to this just to see if the green light will turn on (the eccs was in the engine bay fairly exposed to the elements the past few years so I'm thinking it's toast)

There is a plug hanging from the 280 dash (by the hood latch) that I'm sure is the connection for the ignition harness to the main harness but is not connected/spliced in any way (and of course it is a different plug than what I've seen from other wiring guides, most are for 6 pin connector, mine is an 8 pin)...I'm curious how the PO got it to run.

The PO is local but he can't really recall what he did to get it to fire and I really don't want to bug him too much as he was pretty generous on the price and just gave me a ton of extra parts...I might have to be "that guy"

 

Welcome to ZDriver!

Please post some clear pics of the efi harness by the battery... I'd like to see how it's setup (a picture is worth a thousand words ).

 

Pictures coming this afternoon...for some reason they were showing up too dark on my phone

 

Pics of the mess








That's the best I can do for pics today ( stuck with my phone only the rest of the day)

 

Pics of the relays near the battery

 

extra pic deleted

 

Sorry for the multiple upload of the photos...I wasn't able to see the text that said photos must be cleared through mods first from my phone

 

Egad what a mess! You might as well start over. Judging by the looks of it the most that he got it to do was chugachug. You have to assume he got it wrong. I can't tell if that's even the right afm.

 

Got it to fire...needed to ground the EFI relay on the coil, how to I tell if I have the right AFM? The PO said it was over fueling and stuttering and even though I could only get it to run with brake cleaner it was stuttering every time I gave it a little throttle (I'm guessing I should get the wiring sorted out before I start messing with it). Also the fuel pump is not priming ( hence the brake cleaner) , still have a lot to go through.

 

Honestly I would agree with theramz start over. And the light on the ecu will only indicate that th O2 sensor is bad.

 

Care to explain? You may be confusing some people with this comment.

The LED inside the ECU (visable through the small hole in the side of the casing) should light and stay lit at IGN ON until the engine is running. (It will sometimes go off during cranking.) It then stays OFF until the ECU can go into "closed loop" operating mode. Once the engine goes into closed loop, it's polling the O2 Sensor and adjusting the pulse width of the injectors to stay on the edge of "just rich" / "just lean" to try to maintain the proper air-to-fuel ratio. The LED then shows the state of the O2 Sensor - rich or lean - as it blinks on and off... It's all in the Factory Service Manual.