Superduner

Hey Guys, well, i've reached a point in my project where i just had no clue what to do to get it running right other than to take it to a shop. Long story short.... The car has idling problems/ boost leak problems?e Car turns on and runs and can be driven. But the car definitely has a major lack of power as boost gets nowhere near stock psi. i checked for major leaks with a home made boost leak compressor based gadget to test leaks on piping from turbo running through inter-cooler all the way to intake plenum. gauge on tester goes down very very slowly but Not sure whether or not that should cause such significant lack of power. Car when driven barely gets to spool much boost, let alone set off the greddy type S BOV. there is fuel, there is spark. Timing i can't even get done accurately since the car idles and runs, spits, like crazy . seems like it the problem is aiming toward a boost leak problem; however, this project having been done from ground up by me and being my first swap, the margin of error remains.... electrical wiring schematics were gathered from intel from this site based on previous wiring diagrams from L28et to 240z swaps.

I took it to a Datsun specialist shop here in (SAN DIEGO, CA 91911 )nearby that has remarkable yelp feedback and honest to god the owner of the shop seemed like a knowledgeable great guy and interested to fix on it.... but after 3 months of waiting i was dissapointed to hear he was unable to get positive results as (and i quote) " specialize in N/A for the most part" which would've been nice to know prior to wasting my 3 months ANYWAY!

Does anybody know of a good shop here in SAN DIEGO, CA area that does honest and good work on 240z's in a timely manner for a decent price? or anybody who could take a look at it and figure out what needs to be addressed. the wrenching i can do. but with the TIME i have free it's just not feasible for me to LOOK or TROUBLESHOOT. i need someone to say " THIS, THIS, and THAT. i can get it fixed for _____and running right, otherwise its ____ for the diagnosis and have a nice day.

HELP!

Here's a link to a youtube Video of the car when i took it for a short ride to the end of the block, as you will notice, the car had issues staying on when cold. hopefully by hearing it maybe some of you could throw some educated guess/recommendation


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NismoPick

Let's start at the basics:

#1: You've removed the AAC idle control and Air Regulator. I'm not surprised that it's having idle problems.

#2: What's the fuel pressure at?

#3: Have you hooked up a timing light to see if the mark is at least visible? More and more people are having this "lack of power" problem that goes back to installing the oil pump / dizzy shaft one tooth off, which will put the timing too far out.

#4: Searching for a reputable "240Z mechanic" won't do you much good because you have 280ZX Turbo engine problems.

#5: Have you read your spark plugs? Is the engine burning rich? Lean? Hook up an A/F ratio gauge?

#6: Have you checked that ALL sensors are secure, and connections are free of corrosion (this includes the notorious faulty ecu plugs)?

I would say that there's a combination of things causing your problems. My rule of thumb when doing swaps is to get the STOCK motor running properly, then do modifications. Otherwise you'll play the guessing game for a long time (as you now are).

Check and report on my listed steps above.

260zturbo

Some serious bends in that IC piping

Superduner

#1: You've removed the AAC idle control and Air Regulator. I'm not surprised that it's having idle problems. (Well i Noticed a lot of people had cleaned up and plugged up intake manifolds and figured why not, i should have the parts stashed away so i could put them back on if this were to be necessary parts. I'm aware that removal of these parts at cold start up would cause the car to idle rough or even stall when cold from what ive read.)

#2: What's the fuel pressure at? No clue, will be getting a gauge for measuring soon. (good idea nismo)

#3: Have you hooked up a timing light to see if the mark is at least visible? More and more people are having this "lack of power" problem that goes back to installing the oil pump / dizzy shaft one tooth off, which will put the timing too far out. (I'll get on this and temper with it; however, i believe i tried setting the proper timing spot according to the haynes guide on 280zxt's and online sources instructions but i remember even when i would turn it all the way to either side i wouldn't get the needle to reach where it was supposed to be.

#4: Searching for a reputable "240Z mechanic" won't do you much good because you have 280ZX Turbo engine problems. ( HA!, touche )

#5: Have you read your spark plugs? Is the engine burning rich? Lean? Hook up an A/F ratio gauge? ( YES, spark plugs were slightly moist with fuel last time i checked. )

#6: Have you checked that ALL sensors are secure, and connections are free of corrosion (this includes the notorious faulty ecu plugs)? ( hmm i'll take a copper brush to these bad boys and clean them up.)

Kudos @NISMO, thanks for the list. will update troubleshooting findings thursday (dayoff)

lifegrddude

You might be able to get some help from Jim Wolf Technology, but I don't know if they still dabble with the L-series platform. They're not specialty garage, but they may be able to give you some pointers. The guy there named Clark is pretty knowledgeable, and he's the one who does the ECU mapping for JWT. They're located in El Cajon. I still have a few of their tuning parts from their 450hp kit, but not all since my 280zx was vandalized. Are you still using the stock afm setup? If so, you'll need the AAC and air regulator to keep your car idling well. The exhaust note sounds really rich in your video, do you have an oxygen sensor and the CHTS hooked up?

NismoPick

I would say this is a major problem. The distributor shaft was installed 1 tooth off.

Superduner

YEAH! my coworker told me the same thing. he mentioned if the dist is turned all the way and the light doesnt even come close to where it SHOULD BE that the timing chain will need to be adjusted one tooth over. How would i go about adjusting the dist shaft tooth?

YES i'm running STOCK AFM setup. the O2 sensor IS connected however i haven't really tested the current or whether or not the sensor is even registering or working right for the ECU.

NismoPick

No. Distributor shaft, not timing chain.

Steps are clearly stated in the FSM.

Set motor to TDC.
Remove distributor.
Remove oil pump (usually requires dropping sway bar out of brackets).
Align dots.
Reinstall.
Check timing.

Superduner

VOTE NISMO FOR PREZ.... lol

Superduner

So i bought a timing gun. and went through some forums with timing problems and adjustment posts for timing. I proceeded to get new plugs, i gapped them to specs according to haynes. i installed new cap and rotor. (new MSD Blaster 2 coil and Magnecore wires ordered ). Plug connection, and finally disconnected the + battery terminal and brushed the ECU pins and plugs. i reconnected everything, i removed the sparkplugs as indicated, i placed cyl 1 in what appears to be TDC and took some pictures.

Based on these pictures, is everything where it supposed to be? because when i put the timing light on the area to adjust (even with white out on the crank pulley timing mark) the mark was nowhere to be seen.

I figured i would start with getting the timing done right and get the ignition based margin of error out of the way

NismoPick

You sure it's at TDC on cyl#1 ?
Piston #1 is at the top, and the crank timing mark is at 0?

If so, your timing chain is a tooth off. That shiny link is supposed to be under the #1 dot. If cylinder #1 is at BDC, then I can see why it's a tooth off, otherwise you installed the chain a tooth off.

Tooquick260

My opinion is a Vacuum leak..

Please check for all leaks. I just went thru this. Took me 3 weeks to figure it out. I had a 1/2" bolt hole not plugged on the bottom of the intake manifold. Your engine pic shows at least one open hole.

Yes I would redo the cam timing steps. From your pics it looks like 1 took off. Which I was as well. Also, your oil drive gear looks one tooth off as well.

Very fustrating but take your time and recheck it all.

Datsun 260Z Turbo S15 6 Speed TechnoToyTuning - S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z - HybridZ

Superduner

yeah i saw a schematic that hole labeled 1 was supposed to be under the tooth of the shiny link. So when i popped the VC i was like.. hmm... thats no bueno.

NismoPick

So what's the story with this engine? Did you rebuild it? Someone else?

Superduner

@nismopick
ME and my dad have reason to believe either the head, or engine must have gotten rebuilt. and when re installing the timing chain and stuff thats when things might've gone wrong ? I have no actual proof as i received no receipts from previous owner, but when i popped the VC off to mess around with the timing i noticed everything inside is Reeeeeeeeallly clean and shiny. sprockets, chain etc. the story is that i bought a 72 z shell for $300 years ago then i bought a donor 83zxT for the swap. When i got the car to my house after putting gas and sparkplugs i was impressed that the car started and ran; however, the car idled and ran pretty much on the ZXT as it does on the z now. Mechanically i have done nothing to the engine itself other than the direct swap. Blocking off the Intake mani, and smog stuff removal, and FMIC piping and Greddy type S bov. as well as other bolt on goodies such as Autometer cobalt gauges for boost, and water temp. AIR/FUEL gauge just came in as well as MSD booster, Magnacor wires in route,, new dist cap and rotor installed. and thats it.

Superduner

~UPDATE~

So today i decided to go all out in making sure the timing on the car was not the problem with the performance of the car. So i proceeded to take the radiator/ fans off etc and take better pictures so i can get some feedback. I refered to other sites and information gathering such as:
1) http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html
2) https://www.zdriver.com/forum/240z-2...e-l28et-30099/

And i came to the following images upon tempering with my crank pulley. I noticed that the shiny link lines up in the middle of dot 3 on the cam gear. Also i was for some reason after continuous checking and crank pulley turning. and lighting with a flashlight, i was unable to find the "groove" on the back of the cam pulley through the holes. I located the stationary mark on the cam retaining plate, but saw or found none on the actual cam sprocket;therefore i was unable to align or check for that.After refering to Website #1 im thinking either the chain must have been replaced, the head must have been redone, or the engine rebuilt....or ?
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